Ross MK III restoration project - Pic Heavy

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divealta

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About 99% done restoring a MK III back into full military dress.

Barrel, receiver and bolt looking nasty.








Degreasing nasty 100 year old grime. Parts degreased using a ultrasonic cleaner.






Degreased three times. Finally come out clean. Cleaning solution below after 2nd run in ultrasonic cleaner.




Next phase. Glass bead blasted parts.



The parts were rust blued. Taking about 6 rusting phases to complete. Don't have any pictures of the process, however you will see how black they turned below. Do to pitting on the parts from rust, rust bluing gives a matte finish which obscures the pits.

Here is the wood ready for BLO.



Final product.
















The front nose cap and sight hood are the ones I make. The wood is by Bill @ Alberta Gun Stocks.

Finishing touches left to do are the upper wood rivets and a new interrupt screw.

Also the original bolts were case hardened, so eventual have to do that. Have 7 that need that done.
 
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Still have to put the bolt back together, install the c-clips and rivets and add a new interrupt screw before I shoot her. Will post when I do with the results.
 
Kudos for your efforts, but if I may make one suggestion it is turn down the pressure on your glass beader. Using well broken up beads can help as well. You want to avoid that "sand-blasted" stippled finish. You might consider polishing areas that were polished originally with emery paper: the receiver ring for example and the vernier scale on the backsight.

It would be interesting to see the inletting on that stock as received from the maker.

Oven cleaner makes short work of the heavy dirt and grease. Ultrasonic for the fine stuff I agree.
 
RRCo. said:
Kudos for your efforts, but if I may make one suggestion it is turn down the pressure on your glass beader. Using well broken up beads can help as well. You want to avoid that "sand-blasted" stippled finish. You might consider polishing areas that were polished originally with emery paper: the receiver ring for example and the vernier scale on the backsight.

It would be interesting to see the inletting on that stock as received from the maker.

Oven cleaner makes short work of the heavy dirt and grease. Ultrasonic for the fine stuff I agree.
Click to expand...

That "Sand-Blasted" look is from the rust pitting on that particular rifle, she was bad! Otherwise it does not show up after rust bluing is complete. Below is a picture of a Husq 1600 I did. Same pressure - same glass beads. Actually newer beads about 4 rifles ago.

To remove the pits by polishing them out with emery cloth will be a futile ordeal on deeper ones. If I was hot bluing, then yes I would polish them out and by removing a lot of metal on some barrel/receivers while do so.

The vernier scale was a failed attempt at parkerizing (Not by me).

Had to square up the receiver lug groove otherwise that was pretty much it for fitting.

 
BlackPowderBurner said:
All I can say is WOW! It sure turned out great, your rust blue job seems quite good, could you give a run down of how you performed it?
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1.Degrease all your parts. I use simple green and brake cleaner.
2.Glass bead as it gives more "bite" for the rusting agent you use.
3.Wipe down with acetone
4.Apply your rusting agent - Lots of formulas out there. Google is your friend.
5.Let it rust - to speed up the process make a sweat box.
6.Once a velvet rust layer is formed - chuck it into distilled boiling water - the rust turns to black oxide before your eyes.
7.Card it - Knocks down the black oxide. You can use a carding wheel or 0000 steel wool (Make sure to de-oil the steel wool with acetone before using)
8. Start back at number 4. Repeat 4-7 until it does not rust any more.
9. You will have a deep black finish when done. Use a good gun oil.

Lots of DIY formulas out there for rust bluing. I have tried commercial ones and they are ok. Some easy to obtain ingredients I have tried. Vinegar, salt and hydrogen peroxide.
 
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