RRA Castle Nut

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I ran a search and sort of found my answer, but sort of didn't. Maybe somebody can either point me in the right direction or lend some advice.

I'm working on an RRA AR-15. I'm trying to install a Magpul ASAP but am having a problem removing the reciever extension nut/castle nut. I've read multiple times that RRA uses red loctite. I've applied WD40,and limited heat (with caution) and so far have had no luck getting it to budge. Even triple checked I was turning in the right direction. Short of cutting the castle nut off (which I have read some people doing), how would I proceed from this point? I've got a couple books on AR-15 but none go into trouble shooting this sort of thing. Any ideas (or links to posts if this has been asked and answered before) would be welcomed.
 
Try putting the lower in a soft jawed (leather) or receiver clawed vice, getting a big screwdriver and putting it against the face of one of the uppermost lugs and hitting it with a hammer, at a tangent to the axis of the receiver extension or holding the correct wrench in place and tapping the wrench with a hammer. If you cut the nut off, any receiver extension nut should work fine to replace it. Also try liquid wrench - WD40 isn't really that great for freeing up stuff that's not oxidized.
 
Thanks for the input. I've got a good vice, a lower vice block and M4 stock wrench so all the right tools for removing the castle nut. I was able to get a really good grip on it in the vice. I took your advice and hit it with some Liquid Wrench. Tried with and without heat. Still nothing. It wouldn't budge and I was worried I was going to break something not easily replaceable. So I cut the castle nut off with a Dremel. I figured it was better to do that than risk damaging the rifle because I applied too much force. Thanks again.
 
The guys at RRA are #######s and must take great joy in reading all the threads of people trying to get their buffer tubes off... I had the same problem. Lol
 
Anyone try putting their lower in the freezer? Read on another forum that it might help. I am wanting to buy a pistol RRA and put a stock on it so I read these threads with great concern. There must be a way...
 
Good greif changed the tube on my RRA with no hassles, nut took a budge but nothing major? Used a small torch heated it abit prior, one good whack and she was loose.
 
.... I've read multiple times that RRA uses red loctite.

Where did you read that? There was nothing at all on mine. Installing the PRS on my RRA was no more difficult that changing the stock on any of my other AR's.

You need a solid vise and a quality tool to do the job well without damaging the firearm. Quality tools will also lessen the effort required unlike cheaper tools made from softer alloys etc.

I know it's not much help but that's my $0.02
 
Where did you read that? There was nothing at all on mine. Installing the PRS on my RRA was no more difficult that changing the stock on any of my other AR's.

You need a solid vise and a quality tool to do the job well without damaging the firearm. Quality tools will also lessen the effort required unlike cheaper tools made from softer alloys etc.

I know it's not much help but that's my $0.02

I have read on multiple forums including here that they use red loctite on their pistol buffer tubes to keep Americans (God forbid) from making SBRs. One of the few areas where Canada beats the US of A.
 
I have read on multiple forums including here that they use red loctite on their pistol buffer tubes to keep Americans (God forbid) from making SBRs. One of the few areas where Canada beats the US of A.

Move over Rivet, there's a new baby saver in town and it's not just for xcr's anymore.
 
Pretty sure I have a spare nut if you need one. Let me know.

Thanks, the offer is appreciated. I ordered a replacement from Brownells before I cut mine off. So I should be good to go once it gets here.

Boomer686 said:
Where did you read that? There was nothing at all on mine. Installing the PRS on my RRA was no more difficult that changing the stock on any of my other AR's.

You need a solid vise and a quality tool to do the job well without damaging the firearm. Quality tools will also lessen the effort required unlike cheaper tools made from softer alloys etc.

I know it's not much help but that's my $0.02
I actually read the part about red loctite on this site and somebody mentioned it on AR-15.com. Based on the comments I've seen it appears to be hit and miss with RRA.

I'm fortunate to have a great work bench and a very solid vice. Complete with AR vice blocks and stock wrench. All the right tools. I heated it p with a torch and still didn't budge. Took earlier advice and hit it with some liquid wrench too. I didn't try the freezer option that was suggested though. I started to muscle it but backed off. My experiences when I muscle things tend to be something getting broken. Cutting it off seems to have worked well. No damaged threads and the new nut will arrive soon.
 
What kind of spanner wrench do you use? If you use the cheapo one sold in some online stores it does not have enough leverage.

If you go too hard on it, you can break off the lower receiver. Use more heat.
 
What kind of spanner wrench do you use? If you use the cheapo one sold in some online stores it does not have enough leverage.

If you go too hard on it, you can break off the lower receiver. Use more heat.

I've got 2 of them. One is the 6.00 one that you're probably talking about. The other is a well made spanner about the size of an AR-15 armorer's wrench. I bought the longer, and better made wrench, after I already experienced a bit of trouble with the smaller one (serves me right for cheaping out in the first place).

I feared that I would break something that might not be so easy to replace so I stopped and just cut the nut off. I played with different amounts of heat but not being totally sure about what an AR-15 lower can tolerate, I stopped before I risked doing damage. If it was any other firearm I probably would have played around with it a bit more but just didn't want to chance it.
 
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