Picked up a nice little Ruby extra 22 revolver here on the EE not long ago. Fired it for the first time yesterday. Really liked it, but the ejector rod becomes almost un-moveable after firing all 6 rounds. I have to beat the ejector rod against the shooting bench at the range to get them to come out. What can I do to loosen up the ejector rod on this?
Ruby .22 revolver stiff ejector rod
- Thread starter cote_b
- Start date
Does the ejector work smoothly without any spent rounds in the cylinder? If so, as Sailor pointed out, could be years of built up fouling in the cylinder that's causing the problem. Maybe time for a bronze wire brush in a drill treatment.
First off it's not a wise thing to do to keep jamming the same ammo into chambers that are clearly becoming fouled and then ramming the ejector into the bench to clear the gun. You're going to end up bending the ejector rod or tipping the ejector star off center. Then the real crying will begin.
Clean the chambers with some good nitro solvent and a .22 bore brush. Get it to where the ammo slips in and literally falls out from it's own weight.
If you find that the chambers truly look clean but the ammo still needs to be pushed in firmly with your finger or thumb then buy different ammo. I know on my S&W 17 that quite a lot of the bulk cheap stuff sticks on the way in. And that means a fight to get it out. So that gun generally sees only better quality HV and SV ammo. The better stuff that comes in the 50 or 100 round boxes and trays tends to be tighter in tolerance to what it is supposed to be.
Even so the match chambers of the 17 get sticky after around 6 to 8 cylinders worth of shooting. So I keep a .22 bore brush on a short extension with the gun and just brush out the chambers at the first signs of the empties sticking. This means I never need to ram the ejector against the bench. It's something you should do with your Ruby as well.
Clean the chambers with some good nitro solvent and a .22 bore brush. Get it to where the ammo slips in and literally falls out from it's own weight.
If you find that the chambers truly look clean but the ammo still needs to be pushed in firmly with your finger or thumb then buy different ammo. I know on my S&W 17 that quite a lot of the bulk cheap stuff sticks on the way in. And that means a fight to get it out. So that gun generally sees only better quality HV and SV ammo. The better stuff that comes in the 50 or 100 round boxes and trays tends to be tighter in tolerance to what it is supposed to be.
Even so the match chambers of the 17 get sticky after around 6 to 8 cylinders worth of shooting. So I keep a .22 bore brush on a short extension with the gun and just brush out the chambers at the first signs of the empties sticking. This means I never need to ram the ejector against the bench. It's something you should do with your Ruby as well.
This may horrify some, but I had a fouling problem in the cylinders of my .38 S&W, and nothing seemed to work at cleaning them out.
I tried the Lewis Lead Remover, Hoppes, Sweets... nothing was touching the fouling.
I ended up using a dental pick, and carefully scraped it away.
Cylinders are clean, no scratches, no problems. The Lewis lead remover may well work for future cleaning, but the buildup was too much for it to handle.
I tried the Lewis Lead Remover, Hoppes, Sweets... nothing was touching the fouling.
I ended up using a dental pick, and carefully scraped it away.
Cylinders are clean, no scratches, no problems. The Lewis lead remover may well work for future cleaning, but the buildup was too much for it to handle.
