Ruger #1’s

I don't agree with the fit and handling beefs, which are subjective... they fit me to a tee and handle about as well as any rifle I have used. The scope mount locations are too far forward, but this is easily remedied with an offset ring in the rear location... Ruger should have rectified this problem three decades ago... but the have applied a bandaid to it.

As far as handling and balance goes, the International full length forearm helps with balance, and I prefer the balance of the 22" light sporter "A"... even with a .358" bore. Others prefer a longer 24" barrel, and in the "A" I might concur, but with a 26" barrel on the "S" (C or D barrel) or on the "H", the rifle feels muzzle heavy to me... a large bore helps with that perception.
 
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I've owned many #1's, as a shorter guy they need some modification to fit me well , but they are an amazing rifle. I'm just not sure they are $2200 worth of amazement .they were a great rifle when they were priced realistically .
 
... I'm just not sure they are $2200 worth of amazement .they were a great rifle when they were priced realistically .

Sadly, this same statement (with different numbers) could be made regarding just about rifle on the market.

Hoyt, your Leupolds all seem to be mounted in the same position on your #1's as mine are, i.e. with the rear of the scope more or less even with the trigger. Mine tend to be a hair further forward (giraffe neck, gibbon arms...), but not hugely different. I know that folks with shorter (more normal?) proportions need to use the offset rings, but I've never needed them on any #1 I have ever owned, and looking at your photos seems to indicate that every one of your scopes could have been mounted in exactly the same location using standard rings without any offset.

Why do you bother with the offset rings? I like my front and rear rings as far apart as possible, and when using reversible bases or rings I will make a point of addressing this as long as it doesn't impact proper mounting for eye relief. Since Ruger rings aren't reversible, what benefit do you gain with the offsets? To my eye they look awkward in comparison to a standard ring.
 
Hoyt...
Why do you bother with the offset rings? I like my front and rear rings as far apart as possible, and when using reversible bases or rings I will make a point of addressing this as long as it doesn't impact proper mounting for eye relief. Since Ruger rings aren't reversible, what benefit do you gain with the offsets? To my eye they look awkward in comparison to a standard ring.

I don't "need" the offset rings, but I use them in the rear position, because without them, the rear ring is tight behind the center turret, this leaves alot of scope tube cantilevered over the rear ring and makes it susceptible to damage if it gets dropped or bumped... the wider ring spacing makes the scope significantly stronger.
 
I had a 1990s manufactured #1 Tropical model in .416 Rigby. If that rifle hadn't been lost in a fire, I'd probably still be carrying it today. For a big rifle it carried well, was quick to get into action, and for me, handled recoil well, although others found it objectionable. It produced better accuracy than I could exploit, and had a very good trigger that I could exploit. If a couple of rounds were held between the fingers of the support hand, an impressive rate of fire could be realized when the rifle was cycled at the shoulder. It was a very good rifle, but it wasn't a perfect rifle, so what is? But that's another way of saying I wasn't blind to its shortcomings which are as follows.

The first issue I was faced with was that the recoil split the butt stock on the first outing. Possibly it split with the first shot, but I didn't notice it until later. Foolishly, I sent the rifle to the Ruger Warranty Center and they dutifully replaced the stock, without making any attempt to match the new wood with the forend wood, and sent it back to me. This stock failed on its first outing. Possibly with the first shot, but again, I didn't notice it until later. This time I sent the rifle to a gunsmith who quickly determined that the butt stock bedding was uneven, and the problem was quickly and inexpensively resolved.

The flip up factory rear sight is right up there with a Williams flip up sight, and does no justice to a rifle of that screams for an express style rear sight. I'm a fan of the Ruger barrel band front sight, but not of a gold bead. I should have found a way of adapting a ghost ring aperture rear sight and a brass faced rectangular blade front sight to the rifle, but the rifle was lost before I got there, and the 1.5-5X Leupold never left me wanting. But mounting the scope was an issue. The factory quarter rib left something to be desired for a rifle with this recoil level, since IMHO, the scope's ocular extends too far rearward, particularly if the LOP is reduced to maximize handling under threat. My solution was a custom quarter rib that, and idea that I've carried over to later rifles, that achieved two things, first it ensured that I would never get tagged when the rifle recoiled, regardless of the position or angle I fired from, since the ocular was in line with the face of the falling block. Secondly this scope position kept the rifle's loading/ejection port free of encumbrance, which partially accounted for the rate of fire I could achieve. The only disadvantage of this arrangement was that I could only turn up the magnification to 3X before the image began to shadow on the edges, this proved to be no disadvantage at all; I don't recall ever wishing for more magnification while I carried this rifle, even if I didn't have the full range of magnification available to me. I have heard that some folks with other models of the #1 observe the opposite problem, in that they can't get their scope ocular far enough rearward.

The last issue that got my attention and just learned to live with was that after a few hours on the trail, I'd unsling and find the safety had moved to the fire position. With the muzzle of the rifle just a few inches from my right ear, this didn't leave me with a warm fuzzy feeling. There appeared to be no immediate, simple, or cost effective solution to the problem, which I understand has to do with the geometry of the action, so I began to carry the rifle slung muzzle down, and ensured no companions ever walked on my port side, where the muzzle pointed. I attempted to carry the rifle out of battery, but this resulted in simply decorating the tundra with expensive .416 Rigby ammo.
 
In response to Boomer's post...

Three solutions to the quick follow up are, a) Bob the safety b) Trop the safety c) learn "the flip..." as your fore hand is moving toward the breach, your grip wrist does a quick pivot-twist and clears the loading slide. The brass/safety collision is another long known issue that Ruger has never bothered to remedy.

Sights are not something I consider these days, as my eyesight has deteriorated to the point that scopes are the only option... but in my younger years, I did plenty of shooting and hunting with the Ruger factory sights and don't recall them being an issue.


As for the safety working itself into the "fire" position, I have never experienced that. It is counterintuitive to remedy this by carrying muzzle down... as you would think that gravity would exacerbate the issue, as the safety slides toward the muzzle into the "fire" position.
 
I simply assumed I wouldn't have a safety, and the safest way to carry was with the muzzle away from my head and pointed in a safe direction. Over the years I've developed a low opinion of safeties in general and have all but given up on them. But while other rifles can be carried loaded with an empty chamber, that isn't an option for the #1.
 
I simply assumed I wouldn't have a safety, and the safest way to carry was with the muzzle away from my head and pointed in a safe direction. Over the years I've developed a low opinion of safeties in general and have all but given up on them. But while other rifles can be carried loaded with an empty chamber, that isn't an option for the #1.

Ahhh, I see... knowing me, I would shoot my heel off.
 
I really like my No1 S in .300H&H. Only tried H4350 and Fed215 primers (Win, Rem and Norma brass) but it shoots 180gr TSX and Hornady IL well both with 63-64gr of H4350. 150gr bullets not as well. I still need to try RE22 but the H4350 is good, so I have left it there for now.

I would love a No1 'A' or RSI in 7x57 and Tropical heavy barrel in .450/.400 NE 3". The one concern I have is that I need to watch my thumb on the tang safety as the last deer I shot with the .300H&H I rested the thumb behind the safety and got gouged quite nicely. Definitely something to think of in the big kickers.

Haver any of you bedded the forestock? I don't really need to but am curious and have 'tinker-itis'....
 
Haver any of you bedded the forestock? I don't really need to but am curious and have 'tinker-itis'....

Hicks Accurizer is how I finished smartening up my Ought Six..... Was a little snotty on the price way back then but bedding a hanger system forearm has it’s share of detractors also. Just my .02, Del got it for me back in the day....

Dirk
 
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Heres my No. 1 that I will never get rid of. Its chambered in 300 win mag. I havent been able to get her to group well with factory ammo, got some hand loads to try in tbe next couple days.
 
Dont wanna sound like one of those guys but how do you hold it? I have a 458 lott and have never had that happen.

My thumb was resting on the back of the tang safety. The rear edge of the safety is slightly bent upwards and gouged my thumb under recoil. Just need to not rest my thumb on the safety...
 
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