Ruger 10/22 assistance!

Rock Out w/ Ur Glock Out

Rock Out w/ Ur Glock Out

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Hey all,

New to 10/22's and had one out this past weekend, its an older classic version that was gifted to me. Shoots good but needs work.

The issues;

-some rounds not feeding into the chamber. The round gets caught up. I dont know if a stronger recoil spring is in order. Like i said its an older gun but I changed every other spring minus the recoil.

-stove piping. Happened with the older mag I have lots. Its dirty as all hell. The butler creeks I bought works much better for this but it still happens the odd time. One every couple mags. Normal??

- Bulter creek mags when full do not load the first 3 or 4 rounds. They jam every time. Do the mags need breaking in??

Thanks,

Rock Out
 
the hang up could be ammo ! how many different kinds have you tried? stove piping : i changed my extractor and it fixed that ! you could also clean the whole thing really well might just be too dirty mags im not sure but believe you need to do a short breakin like first time you load only put in 10 rounds and just add a few more every reload ! how loose is the mag when in the gun ? front to back play !
 
Ive only tried the federal bulk (525 round) boxes as well as some winchester bulk copper plated round nose. Both yielded the same results. The hangups usually occurred when charging a round as opposed to the follow up shots. The bolt needs to really be slung forward to aviod the hangups but still seems too frequent. It could very well be ammo choices. I did put in titanium firing pin and extractor. The stove pipes occur way more frequently with the old dirty mag though. Not as much of an issue with the butlers. Very little play with the butler mags. With the new mags it shoots a lot more reliably but they do need some break in. Didnt experience any of the butler problems with the rounds getting caught and not moving up though.
 
The older dirty mag has worn plastic feed lips which I feel could be leading to premature bullet extraction and therefore interference with the casing being extracted. Just a theory though!
 
First, describe the failure to feed. Is the nose of the bullet catching on the chamber mouth, or is the cartridge failing to fully seat in the chamber, or something else? The solution varies depending on the symptom. It's probably not a recoil spring issue, since you say that feeding is fine when the rifle is cycling itself.

Failure to eject: IIRC, the 10/22 uses part of the magazine as part of its ejector system. It could be that the old one is simply worn down in this area. The new extractor will require some break-in, as well, so don't rule that out.

Yes, the BC mags do need a break-in. Leave them loaded for a couple of days, and do a bunch of manual load / empty cycles to help break-in the feed lips.
 
Yep catching on the chamber mouth! The tip of the bullet, when this does happen, will have a slight indent on the bottom front portion of the bullet from where it got caught up. I dont have pics sorry. Doesnt happen too often, unless im shooting off the first of a full butler mag, then the first 3 or 4 always do it as stated. I had a 10/22 guy look it over and he said the internals all appear in good condition.

Thanks for the tip on the ejector. This could explain why the stove pipes occur with the older mag so frequently. The older mag is probably 10-15 years old and was left loaded for extended periods while also being heavily used. Think it goes without saying that its seen better days.

And ill try your tip for breaking the mag in. There really isnt any other variable that would explain why the first 3 or 4 get jammed and the rest work other then heavy spring tension when the mags are full. I also need to play around with more types of ammo. The ones ive tried could be more susceptible to getting caught up hence the periodic jams when manually charging a new round!!
 
Sounds like you're on the right track.

I wouldn't necessarily give up on that older magazine, though. Try giving it a thorough cleaning, and letting that new extractor break in. If the problem persists, then it might be finished.

Feeding is controlled partly by a ramp on the magazine lips, so some break-in is normal here, too. Also, try some solid round nose ammo to see if it's still an issue. You can also put a VERY light chamfer on the offending portion of the chamber mouth to ease feeding.
 
That type of FTF is usually caused by the rim of the top round digging into the bullet underneath it, loading the mag up and letting it sit for a few days helps set the spring and will usually eliminate this on the first try. The stovepiping is a byproduct of poor bolt velocity. The heavier spring in the extractor kits help a bit but if its still happening make sure your mags are fitted properly and the action is clean and lubed. Newer guide rod springs are rough and create a lot of friction and hammer spring struts have burrs from the stamping process. Address these issues by filing the feed lips to clear the bolt completely, polish or replace guide rod, deburr hammer spring strut and if that doesn't do it chamfer the bolt.
 
Supernova is on the right track.
Clean and polish everything, especially if it's been in heavy use for a few years.
Start with the guide rod and bolt.
You may be surprised..... ;)
 
I won't disagree that cleaning and lubing everything is a given, of course. And I won't discourage anyone from polishing the snot out of their 10/22 internals, for many reasons. But I really doubt that any polishing will change the function problems on this particular high-mileage 10/22. All of those bearing surfaces (including the guide rod, bolt, hammer face and hammer strut) should be plenty smooth from years of use. The only new parts are a firing pin and extractor (and magazines). The OP said that the FTE issue is related to the magazines.
 
It's not the fact that the internals might be rough from high milage use, but that they might be gummed up from it.
Cleaning/polishing the bolt and guide rod (creating less friction) will also allow the rifle to go into full cycle easier, permitting the spent cartridge to extract/eject more efficiently before the next round is chambered.
We're all guessing what OP's problems really are without being there or seeing it, but I think he gets a general idea on what "fixes" may help him out.
 
And you would be wrong.

alpining said:
I won't disagree that cleaning and lubing everything is a given, of course. And I won't discourage anyone from polishing the snot out of their 10/22 internals, for many reasons. But I really doubt that any polishing will change the function problems on this particular high-mileage 10/22. All of those bearing surfaces (including the guide rod, bolt, hammer face and hammer strut) should be plenty smooth from years of use. The only new parts are a firing pin and extractor (and magazines). The OP said that the FTE issue is related to the magazines.
Click to expand...
 
Strip, clean and reassemble the mag. Instructions for tensioning the fed spring are available online.

Carefully radius the sharp edge at the bottom of the chamber (It is catching on the bottom edge, yes?) and round it out a bit with some sandpaper on a stick. 240-320 grit wet or dry, wrapped around a pencil will work. Go slow, check often, it'll be fine!

I have mags that were old when I got them 25+ years ago, and they are not showing any siigns of wear on the feed lips, so I'm gonna go out onna limb, and say that is not the problem.

It's a new gun? Dig around here an find the thread that shows the zap strap mod that is done to keep the slack out of the mag well on them. The mod looked like it would be pretty easy to check without doing the mod, if you understand what I'm saying, take a look at the basic principle, and shim your mag well with a bit of folded paper or a plastic shim, and see if it makes a difference.

Cheers
Trev
 
on my SR-22, if i use the CCI minimag Hollow Points, about 2-3 out of 100 will end up jamming and become bent. Round nose have been 100% perfect.. could be ammo related..
 
spyd4r said:
on my SR-22, if i use the CCI minimag Hollow Points, about 2-3 out of 100 will end up jamming and become bent. Round nose have been 100% perfect.. could be ammo related..
Click to expand...

For sure!!
I have much better feed results with round nose ammo VS hollow point in any semi-auto rifle I own.
 
Thanks guys for all the info and tips! Im taking the 10/22 to my uncles tonight and we are going to give all these suggestions consideration. He has a shop with all the needed tools and what not. I have only tried hollow points thus far so putting some solid round nose through it will happen for sure. I also agree that a ranch gun (which it was) that was shot often and cleaned little could benifit greatly from a good polish and cleaning up!!
 
trevj said:
I have mags that were old when I got them 25+ years ago, and they are not showing any siigns of wear on the feed lips, so I'm gonna go out onna limb, and say that is not the problem.
Click to expand...

I'm not thinking "wear" on the feed lips, I'm thinking damage to the portion that aids ejection. New BC mags are fine for ejection, right?

Good tip on the mag shim.
 
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