ruger 10/22 misfires

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neotekz

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im having some misfires with my 10/22 where the pin strikes the rim but the dent looks like its not hard enough, most of the time if i #### the bolt again and shoot it will fire the same round. i thought my bolt was just dirty so i cleaned, took the firing pin out, it before the last range trip and still happens. This happens with lots of different ammo. I was shooting mini mags and blazers today.

im thinking maybe file down the head of the pin so that a smaller area contacts the rim for more force or just get a new firing pin if it will solve the problem. is it possible that the bolt is just not going forward enough to make good contact?
 
try an after market firing pin such as kidd, or vq maybe? ive heard of this happening to guns that have been used extensively...
 
Your chamber is tight (match chamber???).
The rounds do not go all the way in the chamber.
Mini-Mags and Blazers will enhance that, since CCI ammo is fatter,
therefore chambering is more difficult.
Switch to Win 333 or AmEagle and you will be fine.
Make sure you keep the barrel (chamber) clean. No lube.

Also, clean and lube the receiver internals,
and generously lube the guide rod spring.
 
i have a dlask barrel that i put on, im sure the screws are tight. if the round is fatter and protrudes a bit how would that cause a light hit with teh firing pin? wouldnt the distance between the bolt face and rim would be the same? or this cause the bolt to be too far back for a hard strike?

i did notice that i had more problems with CCI stuff, some FTF too with hollow points.

where can i find VQ or kidd firing pin? ive seen the PC pin at hawktech arms but i've had bad luck with PC stuff.
 
Misfires

Do not file the firing pin down to make it smaller, and absolutely do not file it to a point or sharp edge. You can cause case ruptures with too sharp a firing pin.

As mentioned, check the screws that hold the barrel on. Loose screws will increase headspace. Next, check for dirt, etc., on the face of the barrel. Look for anything that would not allow the bolt to go fully home into battery.

Check to see that the firing pin moves freely in the breech block. On mass produced stamped parts, there is usually a burr or sharp edge. You might have to take a few swipes on the SIDE of the firing pin to smooth these out.

Lastly.....have you been firing it without anything in the chamber? Look at the barrel in the area where the firing pin hits. It needs solid contact to crush the primer, and if you dry fire the rifle, it dents and puts a small depression in the face of the barrel. This gives a cushion effect, and the round will not go off.
 
neotekz said:
i have a dlask barrel that i put on, im sure the screws are tight. if the round is fatter and protrudes a bit how would that cause a light hit with teh firing pin? wouldnt the distance between the bolt face and rim would be the same? or this cause the bolt to be too far back for a hard strike?

i did notice that i had more problems with CCI stuff, some FTF too with hollow points.

where can i find VQ or kidd firing pin? ive seen the PC pin at hawktech arms but i've had bad luck with PC stuff.
Click to expand...
The bolt is too far back for the hammer to deliver a complete stroke,
that is, a stroke where the firing pin goes all the way forward.
The limitation here is that the hammer will strike the firing pin some,
but it (the hammer) will be stopped by the lower edge of the bolt
before it can move the firing pin the necessary amount of travel
for a healthy fire strike.

No Volquartsen firing pin or any other aftermarket parts will cure this.
Stop using CCI and you will be fine, as I said in my above post.
 
buffdog said:
Do not file the firing pin down to make it smaller, and absolutely do not file it to a point or sharp edge. You can cause case ruptures with too sharp a firing pin.

As mentioned, check the screws that hold the barrel on. Loose screws will increase headspace. Next, check for dirt, etc., on the face of the barrel. Look for anything that would not allow the bolt to go fully home into battery.

Check to see that the firing pin moves freely in the breech block. On mass produced stamped parts, there is usually a burr or sharp edge. You might have to take a few swipes on the SIDE of the firing pin to smooth these out.

Lastly.....have you been firing it without anything in the chamber? Look at the barrel in the area where the firing pin hits. It needs solid contact to crush the primer, and if you dry fire the rifle, it dents and puts a small depression in the face of the barrel. This gives a cushion effect, and the round will not go off.
Click to expand...

the screws are tight and i did give a good cleaning of the bolt and barrel before the last range trip. i didnt think about checking for burrs when i was cleaning the firing pin, ill check that soon.

i don;t think that dry firing is bad for the 10/22 the pin doesn't hit the barrel. the bolt has an inlet for the round so that it sits into the bolt and the pin hits it without touching the barrel. And since the the slide doesnt sit back on the last round i usually always dry fire when its empty.

Dr. Lector - ive had this problem with winchester xperts, remington yellow jackets, and both federal match and bulk so im skeptical if its just the ammo. these and the cci ammo is what is usually carried at the local stores so i want to try and fix this so that i can use these rounds.
 
The kidd recoil spring guide rod+springs will help.
Run the heavier spring.

As Dr.Lector said, the bolt is simply not returning fully forward, more energy is required to push the ammo into the tighter chamber.
So you've got some drag there somewhere, which isn't uncommon if it's a newer 10/22. There's a break in period.
But try the heavier kidd spring and polish up the internals to get more effecient cycling.
 
i called dlask today to see if maybe it was the chamber being too tight and no loading teh round properly and they offered to take a look at the whole gun, i was told that i can ship everything to them except scope and stock and they will check it out. They even offered to open the chamber up to shoot cci if i wanted but then it wont work well with other ammo. Im very impressed with the customer support with dlask. they also said that rem. and cci do not work very well in their barrels and to use federal champions, american eagle and winchester 333. im going to give these a try this weekend to see how it goes.

The kid cocking assemble looks interesting and comes with a spring to shoot subsonics which i always wanted to try with this gun.

How should i polish the internals? are you talking about the receiver? i was thinking about polishing the inside of the receiver before but didnt know how i should do it. will a dremel with metal polishing brush work?
 
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