Ruger 10/22 - spent cartridges not discharging properly - Please Help

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BoogerChew

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I have a 6 month old Ruger 10/22 that I got for my daughter. For the last month or so it has been jamming a lot.

It pulls the new shell from the clip and inserts it into the chamber fine. Fires great also.

The issue is that when it fires the action ejects the spent cartridge but not completely and when the action closes there is a live shell loaded in the chamber but the spent cartridge is still in the action sideways and does not allow the action to close fully.

It is almost as if the empty shell ejects but bounces around in the action and does not clear. I have cleaned it. I've tried less oil, no oil, more oil. Nothing seems to work.

Sometimes you can fire a complete 30 round clip and everything is fine. Other times every 2nd or 3rd shell jams and click...

I am not sure if I am explaining this clearly, but if anyone can picture the problem I am having I would love some feedback.

Thanks

Brian
 
I get that exact failure as well.

I switched to CCI Blazer and I don't get that failure now.

I never was able to diagnose if it was a mag issue, an extractor issue, or any unknown.

For me after changing ammo I have been failure free.
 
If the power of the cartridge is just enough to allow it to extract, it may not always eject. Depending on the strength of the fired cartridge, it will allow the bolt to be cycled far enough back to strip another cartridge from the magazine on it's return to battery, but not enough to have the bolt go back the entire way it's supposed to to eject the empty brass.
Trying some better ammunition, as was suggested, may help.
 
First of all, its a magazine not a clip. There is a difference.

The first thing to check with a mis-feeding or malfunctioning rimfire is the ammo. Try a few different brands and see if the problem persists. I personally prefer plated .22LR ammo. Every .22 will have a preference for ammo. I have always had good luck with AE plated hollow points in the 3 10/22's Ive had over the years. I also have had decent luck with Federal Champion 500 packs.

If your problem persists after trying a few different brands of ammo I would say to try replacing the extractor with an aftermarket one. Volquartsen Exact Edge Extractor is preferred by many. I have never found it necessary to replace an extractor but it is know to help solve malfunctions in the 10/22's that just wont run.

How does the gun run with the stock Ruger 10rnd mags?

Good luck.
 
The extractor is rarely the issue, aftermarket ones just put a bandaid over the real problem. Bolt velocity is important for proper ejection. From the factory the 10/22s are a little rough. The guide rod is the biggest culprit and can be either polished or replaced with an aftermarket one. Radiusing the bolt provides the best improvement but I always go a step further and polish the bottom radius on the hammer and also polish the round end of the hammer spring strut. With these mods your rifle will cycle subsonic ammo all day with the factory extractor and spring. You can also polish the bolt raceway for some improvement too but Ive never needed to. Blazer is excellent plinking ammo that has always done well in my 10/22s along with pretty much everything else CCI makes. If you don't want to do any modding then shooting hotter ammo circumvents everything Ive said :D Remington yellow jackets fed very reliably for me out of all mags but have a high number of duds. They do cycle a brand new action nicely though as do CCI Velocitor and Stingers.
 
Here is what I did to fix mine. I bought a 597 and sold my 10-22 to Deadmeat. I found stingers and mini mags to function alright in my ruger but the accuracy wasn't good. My 597 has had no problems with any ammo I have fed it. Deadmeat is having good luck with my 10-22 though. cant remember what he was firing out of it though.
 
My guess is that the bolt is not moving fast enough to eject the case, not that its bouncing around. The first thing I would do is check the chamber for fouling. It doesn't take much to makes the spent shells harder to extract which then decreases the energy left to eject the case. The only time my .22 semis have had problems is when I left it too long between cleanings and the chamber mucked up. If that doesn't work maybe try a reduced power spring.

Both my 10/22's eat everything, the dreaded thunderbolts included. You shouldn't need to buy premium ammo for it to work. If you do, send the gun back to Ruger.
 
Change the brand of ammo it sounds like winchster ammo

What is happening is a light round goes off blows the slide back part way starts to eject the shell then it springs forward to soon. You can also try cleaning it as well that helps allot.
 
I will try the ammo. I got a box of Winchester Wildcats as that is all that Canadian Tire had. I will pick up some better ammo and see if it clears up.

Thanks for all of the insight.
 
I'm using bulk win 555 ammo, likely the spring on the back end is not wrapped as tight as the previous spring.:slap: :D But seriously try some different ammo and see if that works before changing anything.
 
I personal have found that the extractor can be a culprit and have used VQ's in all my guns... I have also changed the guide rods to Kidd rods... But my bolts and springs have all been radiused and tuned also... There is often a timing problem when mixing ammo of different power levels... I have tuned my bench guns specifically for subsonic and SV ammo... It I throw in any HV loads, I run into problems... Similarly my speed tac guns are tune for HV, and subs cause problems in them... This primarily a function of the tight tolerances in these guns actions and chambers... With sloppy Ruger chamber, all problems can usually be solved by finding the correct ammo for your action... Once you find the correct power level, then test other ammos in that power range (similar weight and velocity) for accuracy... When you find your ammo stick with it... Then it is just a matter of keeping the action and chamber debris-free.
 
What do you use to polish these components?

supernova said:
The extractor is rarely the issue, aftermarket ones just put a bandaid over the real problem. Bolt velocity is important for proper ejection. From the factory the 10/22s are a little rough. The guide rod is the biggest culprit and can be either polished or replaced with an aftermarket one. Radiusing the bolt provides the best improvement but I always go a step further and polish the bottom radius on the hammer and also polish the round end of the hammer spring strut. With these mods your rifle will cycle subsonic ammo all day with the factory extractor and spring. You can also polish the bolt raceway for some improvement too but Ive never needed to. Blazer is excellent plinking ammo that has always done well in my 10/22s along with pretty much everything else CCI makes. If you don't want to do any modding then shooting hotter ammo circumvents everything Ive said :D Remington yellow jackets fed very reliably for me out of all mags but have a high number of duds. They do cycle a brand new action nicely though as do CCI Velocitor and Stingers.
Click to expand...
 
I use various grits of emery cloth to polish parts starting with as fine a grits as i think will do the job and end with a 400-600 depending on the part. For a critical part that you don't want rounded off and want a crisp edge use a stiff backing stick that you wrap the cloth on. Some of the diamond coated polishing sticks are very useful as well.
 
Run a cleaning patch through the barrel, and the steal bristles 10 times. Had the same problem with a custom barrel, totally took apart the action and polished it, every piece, turns out ur not supposed to go 5000 rounds without cleaning. Worked for me.
 
bulletbox said:
And Winchester shells suck!
Click to expand...

Not all of them but most. I was running Win 22HV Xpert all day in my Dar22.
I stay away from anything in a white box from Winchester in this rifle, but not other rifles.

To the OP. Run the Rifle with the highest velocity ammo you can find, this will break your action in. It's blowback on 10/22s that eject the spent case, and if you have a new rifle everything is stiff.
Also Lube in the right places always helps.
 
Polishing the inside of receiver will definitely help. The casting can be a little rough. Also check to make sure you don't have any interference from the mag lips against the bottom of the bolt. Normally not a problem with the stock 10 round mags, but the 25 round mags or 50 round drums can weigh enough to sag back/pivot up and rub against the bottom grooves of the bolt which are normally a little rough. I took a little off the back of the feed lips and also polished the bottom grooves on the bolt. Works great now with any ammo. You can test if this is a problem by releasing the bolt while you are pulling back lightly on the lower part of the mag.

dead meat said:
I use various grits of emery cloth to polish parts starting with as fine a grits as i think will do the job and end with a 400-600 depending on the part. For a critical part that you don't want rounded off and want a crisp edge use a stiff backing stick that you wrap the cloth on. Some of the diamond coated polishing sticks are very useful as well.
Click to expand...
 
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