Ruger 10/22 stovepipes and bolt not cycling.

Ya your right Amphibious, because only hunting rifles and camo hats have a place in todays firearm world, though I'm sure all the AR15 owners in Canada might disagree. Or any other black rifle owner out there.
 
I thought it was a term black rifle owners called people who mod a 10/22 cause they don't have a real black rifle.
 
It's not enough you mock my choice in firearms, but now you attack my economic station in life? Jeez, can't we all just agree that firearms are good regardless of type? Let's all have a Coke and a smile. Or answer my question about failure to cycles in my rifle.
 
ajayofcanada said:
It's a term hicks use to mock those who use black rifles.
Click to expand...



ajayofcanada said:
It's not enough you mock my choice in firearms, but now you attack my economic station in life? Jeez, can't we all just agree that firearms are good regardless of type? Let's all have a Coke and a smile. Or answer my question about failure to cycles in my rifle.
Click to expand...

so are you the pot or the kettle?
 
haha, well personally I'd convert it back to stock. Change it back one piece at a time until the rifle refuses to shoot.

If it won't shoot stock, I'd blame that spring you were talking about.
If you think it's the magazine, load one round into the chamber, remove magazine, shoot and then see if it's cocked.
 
the main causes of stovepiping in my 10/22's were:

Poor quality ammo
fouled extractor
dirty chamber


make sure you're using a dry lubricant and experiment with some better quality ammo. CCI Minimags have always been my fav. very accurate, and consistant over a chrony.
 
I've been using Break Free CLP, but today at the range, someone mentioned using a dry lubricant that he bought at the fishing shop. I'm sure he meant teflon, but CLP has been good in my other firearms.

I think the short barrel doesn't allow the gases to burn all the way and create enough pressure to cycle the bolt. So tonight I tried the bolt mod trick, it took awhile but the it sure is easier to cycle the bolt by hand compared to before. If your unsure of the bolt mod trick, here's the link. You basically sand down the end of the bolt that comes into contact with the hammer.

h ttp://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15547
 
I had similar issues with mine, problem was solved once the mags were worked in. I also keep here well lubed up and there have been no further issues.

I have found the 10-22 works best in these kits in a well fired rifle with lots of gun oil. I only clean the bore with a snake and leave it at that.

I found that after a good full cleaning the bugs return until she is dirty again.

Sounds weird but it works.
 
I just installed a 10.5 Inch barrel in my ruger and now it does the exact same thing that you described.

i think that it must be due to the shorter barrel
 
I polished and sanded down the edge of my bolt which may help, I haven't got to the range yet to try it, but if not, I may have to start snipping a loop or two ff the trigger spring. Which is the cause of all of this. Lack of gas pressure due to the short barrel, thus not enough force pushing on the bolt, causes this.

I tried CCI Stinger ammo, did not fix a thing, even though it is faster ammo. Hopefully the bolt modification works. If not, the spring is getting snipped. Or I( could go to my local gunsmith and ask if he has a well worked over spring from a 30 year old Ruger 10/22 laying around?
 
I had those 2 bugs too with my 10/22. I changed ammo = still had the bugs, I look at everything = still had the bugs. So 1 day that I was close to give the gun to antis so they could do those ''art thing'' with welded gun barrels (yes, I was that pissed), I decided to give it a last chance, I found that the recoil rod had a blue finish but was not polish at all, I took the rod and polish it the best I could on a polishing wheel, next week-end I tried the rifle again = bingo!, no more stove pipes, or any other problems, the gun cycle everything I could fed her. It may solve your problems and it doesn't cost much = $0. After realizing that the problem was the rod I decided to order a ''Volquartsen 10/22 Extended Bolt Handle & Recoil Rod Assembly'' from rimfire sports, since then no more problems of any sort.:cool:
 
2) but.... the bolt is not going rearward with enough force to #### the hammer, so you end up with a live round in the chamber, but pulling the trigger does nothing as the hammer was never cocked.
Click to expand...

Question: If it does this, and you give the trigger a slight nudge forward, do you hear a tiny 'click' sound, and will it fire if you then pull the trigger?

If so, I had the same issue initially. To fix it I replaced the original trigger springs with a tougher set with a tighter tension, and (and this will make something make sense), I filed away a part of the grip (if you look, you can see where I filed it. The issue is that the grip can put pressure on the whole reciever group, putting it slightly out of alignment. If backing the grip screw off a tiny amount fixes the problem, then voila! If you have the grip screw's threaded block in backwards it will also do this.

Lastly, in my case it was eventually noticed that the hammer itself was actually deformed in the manufacturing process, and thus would not work properly. Replacing it solved the problem.
 
When I move the trigger it makes no sound at all. Here's the bolt mod, basically a ramp instead of the 90 degree angle that hits the hammer on stock models. It creates more leverage, I used my dremel then a stone to give it a mirror finish, then I added some rails on the handguard. I'll try it tomorrow and see if it shoots properly.


 
Update and it's not a good update, went to the range today, and after polishing and modding the bolt, trying Break Free CLP, and wiping it down and then trying Dry Teflon based lube, it still will not cycle on it's own, it does eject the spent round and put another in the chamber, but it does not #### the hammer, the bolt is not cycling back enough t6o #### the hammer due to lack of gas pressure from the short barrel.

I guess my only option left is to snip a ring or two from the hammer spring.
 
Man that sucks, nothing worse than getting your hopes up and having them shattered into a million pieces :(

Did you polish the hammer and other internals when you did your bolt polishing?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom