Ruger 10/22 sugestions???? (Yes read tips and tricks already)

Croats

Croats

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Ok so bought a Ruger 10/22 std. what would be the top picks for hop ups?? Or top pick of things I can do (As mentioned above) with existing parts or what parts should I buy and replace???
I have read the Tips and tricks thread now twice and a bit confused what would be the best thing to do at this moment without spending a bundle on replacing stuff.
I am getting all sorts of opinions from various people (a good thing) but seeing I just got this thing I am not too crazy about a new barrel and a new trigger group especially as a barrel over $120 and a trigger group complete is $209 ummm that is more then the damn .22
I would like to do some mods to make it function better and smoother without breaking the bank.
What suggestion or top things should I do?
 
I polished the receiver and the bolt and cleaned all the internals thoroughly. I added the plastic bolt buffer and did the bolt lock modification. The only thing that cost money was the bolt buffer. My 10/22 operates great now. Oh and if you get the Butler Creek 25 rd. mags try breaking them in first, I had a crazy amount of FTEs before, now it only happens once in 100 and it's getting better. Try working the action before and after you clean/polish it, the difference is startling.
 
zeke1979 said:
I polished the receiver and the bolt and cleaned all the internals thoroughly. I added the plastic bolt buffer and did the bolt lock modification. The only thing that cost money was the bolt buffer. My 10/22 operates great now. Oh and if you get the Butler Creek 25 rd. mags try breaking them in first, I had a crazy amount of FTEs before, now it only happens once in 100 and it's getting better. Try working the action before and after you clean/polish it, the difference is startling.
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Hi Zeke, when you say polishing the bolt and receiver can you explain in a bit more detail how and with what I am doing this??? Sorry never did this before and as for plastic buffer where did you order it from?
I read about the bolt release thingy and using a dremel and what shape it should look like, I think I can do this no prob.

Thanks for all advice I appreciate it.
 
kidd stuff is only sold at 2 places in canada.
Joe Brooks and fabsports.

you can get that stuff in either Kidd or VQ.
a couple places carry VQ stuff, Mil-arm in edmonton is where i got mine.

as for what to do with a used 10/22 id take it apart, right down to the last spring and screw and clean it and oil it good.
that does 2 things for ya, one it gets it clean and the second it trains you on the inner workings of the gun.

the bolt release is a quick easy mod that most people like to do.
replacing the bolt pin with a rubber one is a cheap thing to do.
they run anywhere from $2 to $5 for a kidd one. they all work good, kidd ones are easier to do though - hence the price difference.

a new extractor is a good one, and fairly cheap.

doing the trigger work yourself is cheap and easy BUT you do kinda need to know what your doing.
sending it off to Brimstone to have them do it is what i would do unless you know what you are doing or dont mind playing mad scientist.
all it really involves is understanding the inner workings of your gun and going in and sanding and polishing all the inside surfaces that rub together.

anything other that that stuff and your into bigger money.
 
wayupnorth said:
kidd stuff is only sold at 2 places in canada.
Joe Brooks and fabsports.

you can get that stuff in either Kidd or VQ.
a couple places carry VQ stuff, Mil-arm in edmonton is where i got mine.

as for what to do with a used 10/22 id take it apart, right down to the last spring and screw and clean it and oil it good.
that does 2 things for ya, one it gets it clean and the second it trains you on the inner workings of the gun.

the bolt release is a quick easy mod that most people like to do.
replacing the bolt pin with a rubber one is a cheap thing to do.
they run anywhere from $2 to $5 for a kidd one. they all work good, kidd ones are easier to do though - hence the price difference.

a new extractor is a good one, and fairly cheap.

doing the trigger work yourself is cheap and easy BUT you do kinda need to know what your doing.
sending it off to Brimstone to have them do it is what i would do unless you know what you are doing or dont mind playing mad scientist.
all it really involves is understanding the inner workings of your gun and going in and sanding and polishing all the inside surfaces that rub together.

anything other that that stuff and your into bigger money.
Click to expand...

K now I am a little less confused :S LOL
Thanks for info.
But I do have to ask, bolt release easy peasy (Will order one shortly)
New Rifle not used not so much cleaning required (One would think) but I did give it a quick once over and barrel with CLP and I was surprised to find/remove grease and other manufacturing crap....mostly grease
Bolt buffer found several online I can replace it with, looking at this Tuffer Buffer one ATM not sure WTF the difference is between all of them but seems they are all cheap and all seem to do the exact same thing. (Any advice/comment?)
Extractor... hmmm I take it a bit of an issue with rifle??? (will look into one)
I love playing mad scientist... I have nothing better to do *end sarcasm* I did go to Brimstone web site and realized there is a few choices for having trigger work done- no idea but looking at intermediate deal, basic sucks and pro one is a bit pricey but need to read up a bit more on what they do for which one.(Any advice?)
 
Doing a mild trigger job is dirt simple. There are many YouTube videos that are very helpful. Also, although the bolt release part can be purchased, a mod takes 5 minutes with a Dremel.

Being a mad scientist, I also bedded the action with JB Weld and sanded the stock to free float the barrel. This has halved my groups at 100 yards so far.
 
Doing a mild trigger job is dirt simple. There are many YouTube videos that are very helpful. Also, although the bolt release part can be purchased, a mod takes 5 minutes with a Dremel.

Being a mad scientist, I also bedded the action with JB Weld and sanded the stock to free float the barrel. This has halved my groups at 100 yards so far.
 
Pr589 said:
Doing a mild trigger job is dirt simple. There are many YouTube videos that are very helpful. Also, although the bolt release part can be purchased, a mod takes 5 minutes with a Dremel.

Being a mad scientist, I also bedded the action with JB Weld and sanded the stock to free float the barrel. This has halved my groups at 100 yards so far.
Click to expand...

Damn...was so nice you said it twice.....LOL
Ok I will check trigger job part on youtube or was that redtube...no youtube ok NVM I will check that out shortly (thanks for advice)
The bolt release part no prob I will do that same time as I drop in the Tuffer Buffer I just ordered :)
 
Doing a mild trigger job is dirt simple. There are many YouTube videos that are very helpful. Also, although the bolt release part can be purchased, a mod takes 5 minutes with a Dremel.

Being a mad scientist, I also bedded the action with JB Weld and sanded the stock to free float the barrel. This has halved my groups at 100 yards so far.
 
All I did for polishing was use some fine emory cloth to smooth down any irregularities (use a block of wood to keep from making low points), then went to 1000, then 2000 grit sandpaper to give the internals some shine. I finished off with polishing compound for a mirror finish (not necessary, but looks pretty). When you do any polishing/sanding, make sure to clean really well to remove any grit. I got my buffer from Hical.ca, but Wanstalls and a bunch of other places carry them. I added a bunch of other stuff to the rifle, but they're all cosmetic. If you're going to use it as a target gun then for sure you'll want to do the other stuff, but I just use mine for plinking and squirrel blasting.
 
Take a look at some of the surfaces inside the receiver, if it looks like mine did it was pretty rough from the factory and the action felt gritty. After polishing it was way more smooth. I forgot to mention the charging handle, I replaced mine with a larger one from Dlask, that also helped with the action.
 
Nester said:
Great plan..........good luck finding what you need at a viable price and time frame.
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I agree.....some items can be hard to find in the Great White North, but Brownells can also be pricey...plus what your allowed to have shipped here (ITAR) REALLY makes your shopping "limited".
1 stop shopping with restricted choices may be your only advantage.
 
Croats said:
K now I am a little less confused :S LOL
Thanks for info.
But I do have to ask, bolt release easy peasy (Will order one shortly)
New Rifle not used not so much cleaning required (One would think) but I did give it a quick once over and barrel with CLP and I was surprised to find/remove grease and other manufacturing crap....mostly grease
Bolt buffer found several online I can replace it with, looking at this Tuffer Buffer one ATM not sure WTF the difference is between all of them but seems they are all cheap and all seem to do the exact same thing. (Any advice/comment?)
Extractor... hmmm I take it a bit of an issue with rifle??? (will look into one)
I love playing mad scientist... I have nothing better to do *end sarcasm* I did go to Brimstone web site and realized there is a few choices for having trigger work done- no idea but looking at intermediate deal, basic sucks and pro one is a bit pricey but need to read up a bit more on what they do for which one.(Any advice?)
Click to expand...

the bolt buffers are just a plastic bolt that replaces the factory metal one.
it makes cycling of the bolt smoother and less metal slamming on metal.
when the bolt on the ruger goes back it slam's into that bolt then goes forward again.
so if you replace it with a rubber pin its a lot smoother.
now, i did like most people and put in the rubber ones but i tell ya, if you like to play with the guns and take them down and such it becomes a real pain to be pulling those rubber pins in and out, specially if they are tight, thats where the Kidd one is better, its a rubber sleave with a metal pin inside it so you can pop the pin out and the rubber tube just comes right out, no wrestling the rubber pin in and out.

i havnt used Brimstone myself, i just take mine down and sand and polish them up or replace the guts with VQ stuff.
but a lot of guys use him and they do good work.

like mentioned above, youtube + JB weld and some 2000 grit and youve got a long winters night of fun ahead of you!

replacing the extractor - while ive never had any issues with any of my 4 Ruger 10/22's it is one of the smallest pieces of your gun and its important and it gets some heavy hard dirty use. so replacing it is just a quick easy thing to do to help your gun run smoother if its a heavy used gun.
if its not a heavily used gun then just a real good detailed cleaning and oiling of the bolt and the extractor is fine.
i replaced my only extractor on my 28 year old ruger 10/22, my other 3 havnt been replaced as they still run perfect, but i attribute that to cleaning them on the regular.
its amazing how a semi auto can get all messed up with just a little bit of crud build up under the extractor claw.

welcome to the tinkering club.

its a fun winter hobby!
i keep buying new 10/22's to keep one stock but get bored and start tinkering with it.
so then i buy another.... and another.... and another... speaking of that, winter is coming.... i need a project....
 
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