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Ruger 22 Disassembly???
- Thread starter mdbmail
- Start date
LOADED WEAPON WARNING -
Never clean, lubricate, disassemble, assemble or work on the Mark II pistol while it is loaded. Keep all loaded ammunition away from the cleaning area.
- MUZZLE SAFETY WARNING -
Keep the muzzle of the Ruger Mark II pistol pointed in a safe direction at all times during the disassembly and assembly of this pistol.
REMOVAL OF THE MAGAZINE Place the safety on ("S"). With the thumb of either hand, push the knurled magazine catch rearward and pull the magazine assembly down out of the lower receiver by its grooved base. Remove all cartridges from the magazine by pushing them forward and allowing them to pop out.
CHECK CHAMBER FOR NO CARTRIDGES
With the pistol pointed in a safe direction and YOUR FINGER OFF THE TRIGGER, grasp the bolt ears with the thumb and index finger and pull the bolt fully rearward. Make certain the Ruger Mark II is empty! Visually verify that no ammunition is in the chamber. Release the bolt ears and allow the bolt to fly forward.
UNCOCK THE HAMMER
The safety must be off ("F") and the pistol uncocked to disassemble the Mark II. Point the weapon in a safe direction and, with the pistol unloaded, pull the trigger. The hammer must be uncocked to relieve the pressure on the mainspring before the weapon can be disassembled.
UNLATCHING THE MAINSPRING HOUSING
The perfect "tool" to use for raising the mainspring housing latch is a lady's bobby pin. Combat Arms has found nothing better for disassembling the Ruger Mark II than this. Using your fingernails will just result in broken nails. If you use a screwdriver, you risk scratching the pistol. Some users have reported that they use a piece of string looped over the latch. Using the bobby pin, lift the mainspring housing latch UP out of the handgrip as far as it will go, much like opening the blade of a pocket knife. This will bring the latch to an approximate 90ø angle to the handgrip.
INITIALLY POSITIONING THE HAMMER STRUT
Point the empty pistol straight up and pull the trigger in order to make the hammer fall to its rearmost position.
REMOVE THE MAINSPRING HOUSING ASSEMBLY
Pull straight DOWN on the mainspring housing until the mainspring housing pin clears its hole in the top of the receiver. With new pistols it may be necessary to lightly tap (with a plastic, rubber or wooden hammer) on the end of the mainspring housing pin which protrudes through the top of the upper receiver assembly while pulling downward on the mainspring housing. The mainspring housing is now able to be removed from the pistol.
POSITIONING THE HAMMER FORWARD
Point the Mark II muzzle DOWN and pull the trigger.
REPOSITIONING THE HAMMER STRUT
Now raise the empty pistol vertically and point it straight up until you hear a click. This click tells you that the hammer strut has fallen back. If you do not hear the click, go back to the previous step, entitled POSITIONING THE HAMMER FORWARD.
REMOVAL OF THE BOLT ASSEMBLY
You can now pull the bolt out of the receiver by pulling on the bolt ears while continuing to point the pistol at the ceiling. If the bolt will not come out, then the hammer is not positioned aft; go back two steps to POSITIONING THE HAMMER FORWARD.
REMOVAL OF THE UPPER RECEIVER ASSEMBLY
Grasp the lower receiver and hold the bolt stop thumbpiece UP. Hold the pistol over a padded work surface which will receive the upper receiver when it is removed. Tap the rear of the upper receiver with a plastic, rubber or wooden hammer to disengage the upper receiver from the lower receiver.
DISASSEMBLY OF THE BOLT
Lift the recoil spring assembly UP out of its slot in the bolt assembly. NOTE: no further disassembly of the bolt should be needed for routine cleaning. For further disassembly, push out the firing pin stop. This will allow the firing pin, firing pin spring and the firing pin spring support to drop free. With a pointed object, such as a punch of the proper size, push the extractor plunger rearward until the extractor can be lifted out of the side of the bolt. Slowly release the extractor plunger, allowing the plunger and extractor spring to fall free of the bolt.
DISASSEMBLY OF THE MAGAZINE
Hold the Ruger M10 magazine assembly upside down, keeping the base of the magazine pointed away from people or objects. Insert a 1/16" drift punch through the hole in the base and depress the magazine base plunger approximately ¬ ". Slide the base forward very slowly, being very careful to keep the plunger and mainspring under control at all times. If not contained, these parts will fly out with considerable force. With the base fully removed, slowly relax the pressure on the plunger and spring and remove them. Hold the magazine flat with the magazine follower button up. Align the magazine follower button with the circular opening near the lower end of the magazine tube. Lift out the button. The magazine follower can now be removed.
CLEAN THE PISTOL
Gather together the proper sized cleaning rod with a .22 caliber brass or bronze bristle bore brush and a slotted tip into which a cleaning patch can be inserted. Also needed are clean cloth patches and clean soft cloths. Do not use stainless steel brushes on the weapon unless the Mark II is constructed of stainless steel. Stainless steel brushes will remove the bluing on blued pistols. A bronze or brass "toothbrush" is especially helpful for scrubbing parts. Do not use the bore brush for scrubbing anything except the barrel and magazine housing.
Combat Arms and the United States military recommend that you use Break-Free (CLP)(tm). Under no circumstances should you ever use WD-40(tm) on any weapon! If you need a solvent, Combat Arms recommends that you use Shooter's Choice(tm) followed by CLP. The Ruger Mark II should be cleaned at least every 400 rounds and after each firing period.
Using a cleaning rod with a slotted tip, run a CLP wetted patch through the full length of the barrel from the chamber end several times to remove loose material. Then attach a bronze or brass bristle bore brush to the cleaning rod and wet it in CLP. Run the bore brush back and forth through the full length of the barrel at least a dozen times. Make sure that the rod is pushed all the way through the barrel until the entire bore brush clears the muzzle end. Do not reverse the direction of the brush until it has completely exited from the muzzle end of the barrel or the bore brush may bind up inside the barrel.
Using the toothbrush soaked in CLP, scrub the area around the chamber until it is clean. Remove the bore brush from the cleaning rod and attach the slotted tip again. Run several dry patches through the barrel until they come out clean. If necessary, attach the bore brush to the cleaning rod again and scrub the barrel with a CLP soaked bore brush. Continue the process until the barrel is clean.
Failing to do this consistently and properly will cause fouling of the barrel with a natural loss of accuracy. Grease accumulation in the chamber area can interfere with the proper feeding of cartridges from the magazine.
Using a loose clean patch soaked with CLP, remove all powder residue from all components of the mechanism. If grease or dirt cannot be removed by merely wiping with the patch, then use your brass toothbrush soaked with CLP. After using the brass toothbrush, wipe all of the scrubbed areas with a clean CLP wetted patch. After cleaning the bore, run a clean dry patch through the barrel and then follow it with a patch that has a light coat of CLP on it. This will put a light coat of CLP on the inside of the barrel and protect it from corrosion.
Wipe all surfaces with a clean cloth that has a light coat of CLP on it. If the lower receiver and its mechanism is especially dirty, flood it with CLP, leave it sit soaking for 2 hours and then flush it out with more CLP. Remove the grip panels before soaking or flushing the pistol and make certain that all foreign matter is removed after cleaning. Lightly lubricate the lower receiver with CLP after cleaning.
When cleaning the bolt face, breech areas, etc. with the toothbrush, work carefully so as not to damage components.
Reassemble the pistol as detailed later in this manual. If the Ruger Mark II pistol is to be stored for an extended period, the final wiping should be done with a heavier coat of CLP.
Clean the internal and external parts of the disassembled magazine with CLP. The inside of the magazine can be scrubbed with a bore brush soaked in CLP. After scrubbing, remove all loose material with several clean patches, just like you did with the cleaning of the barrel. Leave a very light coat of CLP on the inside of the magazine and on the magazine spring.
- MAGAZINE CLEANING CAUTION -
Be careful not to scratch the interior and exterior of the Ruger M10 magazine, particularly along the front section where the bullet tips ride. Be very careful not to bend the magazine lips.
Only a very small amount of CLP is needed to provide adequate lubrication of all moving parts in the Ruger Mark II and to prevent rust. Accumulation of CLP can attract particles of dust and dirt which can interfere with the safe and reliable function of the pistol. Do not, therefore, apply excess CLP unless storing the weapon for an extended period of time. If storing the weapon and using a heavy coating of CLP, the weapon should be disassembled and re-cleaned and lubricated with a light coating of CLP before firing.
- STORAGE WARNING -
If the pistol has been stored, before firing it again, completely disassemble it as detailed elsewhere in this manual, remove all grease and lubricant, apply a light coating of CLP to all parts as described in the section on cleaning and be sure to run a dry patch through the barrel after cleaning with a bore brush soaked in CLP. Do not keep the pistol stored in a leather holster or leather case. Leather attracts moisture, even though the holster or case may appear to be perfectly dry. Never store the Mark II pistol in such a manner as it may be dislodged. Always store the Mark II securely and unloaded.
- LUBRICATION WARNING -
Firing the pistol with oil, grease or any other material even partially obstructing the barrel may result in damage to the pistol and death or injury to the user and those persons nearby. Never spray or apply any lubricants directly to the ammunition. If the powder charge of a cartridge is affected by the lubricant, it is possible that the charge will not ignite but the energy from the primer in the cartridge case may be sufficient to push the bullet into the barrel where it may be lodged. Firing a subsequent bullet into the obstructed barrel may damage the pistol and cause death or injury to the user and persons nearby. Use all lubricants properly and according to the lubricant manufacturer's suggestions and recommendations.
Reassembling the Ruger Mark II
ASSEMBLY OF THE MAGAZINE
Assemble the magazine in the reverse order of its disassembly, being especially careful to contain the spring and plunger as the base is being locked into place. After assembly of the magazine, test the follower to ensure that it has free movement.
ASSEMBLY OF THE BOLT
The bolt is assembled in the reverse order of its disassembly. When installing the firing pin spring, make certain that the front of the support curves DOWN into the bolt. After assembly, test the extractor and firing pin for free movement. Put the recoil spring assembly back into the bolt.
INSTALLATION OF THE UPPER RECEIVER ASSEMBLY
Grasp the lower receiver in a natural shooting position. Point the pistol upward vertically and pull the trigger to pivot the hammer backward to a cocked position. Lower the pistol to a horizontal position. Place the upper receiver about ¬" ahead of its final position and press it backward and downward so that the trigger guard lug engages the front recess on the bottom of the upper receiver. The upper receiver is properly aligned when the rear end of the upper receiver is approximately even with the rear end of the lower receiver. If proper alignment is not achieved by mere hand pressure then it is necessary to strike the muzzle with a plastic, rubber or wooden hammer. Inspect the inside of the receiver to see if the hammer is up. If the hammer is up, the bolt will not go into the receiver. If the hammer is up, point the pistol up vertically and pull the trigger to make the hammer go to the cocked position and ensure that the hammer strut is free.
INSTALLATION OF THE BOLT ASSEMBLY INTO THE RECEIVER
With the muzzle still pointing slightly upward, insert the bolt into the receiver SPRING SIDE UP. If you put it straight in, the bolt will easily slide right into the receiver.
- FIRING PIN STOP WARNING -
When sliding the bolt assembly into the receiver, be certain that the firing pin stop is in the bolt. If the bolt is assembled without the firing pin stop in place, the first time the Mark II pistol is dry fired (no live cartridge in the chamber), the firing pin will be free to move forward to the extent that it will dent the rear face of the chamber, thus rendering the upper receiver useless and beyond repair.
INSTALLATION OF THE MAINSPRING HOUSING ASSEMBLY
Point the empty pistol downward and pull the trigger until the hammer falls forward to its vertical (fired) position. Grasp the mainspring housing and insert the mainspring housing into the receiver by positioning the mainspring housing pin into the bottom of the hole in the lower receiver and push it straight up through the hole in the upper receiver. As the mainspring housing pin is pushed upward through the receivers, it passes through the slot in the bolt and also passes by the rear end of the recoil spring guide, camming the recoil spring guide forward to put initial tension into the recoil spring. Continue pressing the mainspring housing pin upward through the receivers until the mainspring housing pin protrudes about 1/8 inch above the top of the upper receiver. During this step, be certain that the rear of the bolt is flush with the rear of the receiver and that the hammer is in its fired (forward) position. When the hammer is in the forward position, it is then possible to observe the hammer strut. The mainspring housing pin will snap into place when it has traveled to its correct position.
VERIFY THAT THE HAMMER IS AGAIN FORWARD
Point the empty pistol down towards the floor and pull the trigger. This will cause the hammer to fall forward. Release the trigger and do not touch it again!
REPOSITION THE HAMMER STRUT
Point the MARK II straight up until you hear the hammer strut fall back with a slight click. You will have to raise the pistol rapidly to cause the hammer strut to fall back. Do not pull the trigger. Keep the Mark II pointing upward.
LATCHING THE MAINSPRING HOUSING
The mainspring housing is now ready to be swung shut but it is essential that the hammer strut comes to rest on the mainspring plunger as the housing is closed. The mainspring plunger lies inside the mainspring housing and may be seen through the slot in the upper end of the housing. If the hammer strut does not contact the mainspring plunger as the housing is swung shut, it will either be impossible to complete the closure of the housing or the housing may be closed but it will be impossible to draw the bolt all the way back. It is also essential that the hammer itself be in its uncocked forward position (resting against the firing pin) as the mainspring housing is swung shut. With the MARK II still pointing up vertically and tilted at a slight angle to cause the hammer strut to drop into the correct position to meet the mainspring plunger in the mainspring housing, close and latch the mainspring housing by pushing the latch into its original position with the heel of your hand.
TESTING FOR PROPER ENGAGEMENT
When proper engagement is achieved, closure is complete against the tension of the mainspring, which can be felt as the mainspring housing is pushed into the recess in the back strap. To find out if you did everything correctly, grasp the bolt ears and pull the bolt back. If the bolt comes all the way back, you reassembled the Ruger Mark II correctly. If the bolt fails to come back, it is because the hammer strut is improperly positioned. If the hammer strut is improperly positioned, then open the mainspring housing again and go back to the step entitled VERIFY THAT THE HAMMER IS AGAIN FORWARD.
Never clean, lubricate, disassemble, assemble or work on the Mark II pistol while it is loaded. Keep all loaded ammunition away from the cleaning area.
- MUZZLE SAFETY WARNING -
Keep the muzzle of the Ruger Mark II pistol pointed in a safe direction at all times during the disassembly and assembly of this pistol.
REMOVAL OF THE MAGAZINE Place the safety on ("S"). With the thumb of either hand, push the knurled magazine catch rearward and pull the magazine assembly down out of the lower receiver by its grooved base. Remove all cartridges from the magazine by pushing them forward and allowing them to pop out.
CHECK CHAMBER FOR NO CARTRIDGES
With the pistol pointed in a safe direction and YOUR FINGER OFF THE TRIGGER, grasp the bolt ears with the thumb and index finger and pull the bolt fully rearward. Make certain the Ruger Mark II is empty! Visually verify that no ammunition is in the chamber. Release the bolt ears and allow the bolt to fly forward.
UNCOCK THE HAMMER
The safety must be off ("F") and the pistol uncocked to disassemble the Mark II. Point the weapon in a safe direction and, with the pistol unloaded, pull the trigger. The hammer must be uncocked to relieve the pressure on the mainspring before the weapon can be disassembled.
UNLATCHING THE MAINSPRING HOUSING
The perfect "tool" to use for raising the mainspring housing latch is a lady's bobby pin. Combat Arms has found nothing better for disassembling the Ruger Mark II than this. Using your fingernails will just result in broken nails. If you use a screwdriver, you risk scratching the pistol. Some users have reported that they use a piece of string looped over the latch. Using the bobby pin, lift the mainspring housing latch UP out of the handgrip as far as it will go, much like opening the blade of a pocket knife. This will bring the latch to an approximate 90ø angle to the handgrip.
INITIALLY POSITIONING THE HAMMER STRUT
Point the empty pistol straight up and pull the trigger in order to make the hammer fall to its rearmost position.
REMOVE THE MAINSPRING HOUSING ASSEMBLY
Pull straight DOWN on the mainspring housing until the mainspring housing pin clears its hole in the top of the receiver. With new pistols it may be necessary to lightly tap (with a plastic, rubber or wooden hammer) on the end of the mainspring housing pin which protrudes through the top of the upper receiver assembly while pulling downward on the mainspring housing. The mainspring housing is now able to be removed from the pistol.
POSITIONING THE HAMMER FORWARD
Point the Mark II muzzle DOWN and pull the trigger.
REPOSITIONING THE HAMMER STRUT
Now raise the empty pistol vertically and point it straight up until you hear a click. This click tells you that the hammer strut has fallen back. If you do not hear the click, go back to the previous step, entitled POSITIONING THE HAMMER FORWARD.
REMOVAL OF THE BOLT ASSEMBLY
You can now pull the bolt out of the receiver by pulling on the bolt ears while continuing to point the pistol at the ceiling. If the bolt will not come out, then the hammer is not positioned aft; go back two steps to POSITIONING THE HAMMER FORWARD.
REMOVAL OF THE UPPER RECEIVER ASSEMBLY
Grasp the lower receiver and hold the bolt stop thumbpiece UP. Hold the pistol over a padded work surface which will receive the upper receiver when it is removed. Tap the rear of the upper receiver with a plastic, rubber or wooden hammer to disengage the upper receiver from the lower receiver.
DISASSEMBLY OF THE BOLT
Lift the recoil spring assembly UP out of its slot in the bolt assembly. NOTE: no further disassembly of the bolt should be needed for routine cleaning. For further disassembly, push out the firing pin stop. This will allow the firing pin, firing pin spring and the firing pin spring support to drop free. With a pointed object, such as a punch of the proper size, push the extractor plunger rearward until the extractor can be lifted out of the side of the bolt. Slowly release the extractor plunger, allowing the plunger and extractor spring to fall free of the bolt.
DISASSEMBLY OF THE MAGAZINE
Hold the Ruger M10 magazine assembly upside down, keeping the base of the magazine pointed away from people or objects. Insert a 1/16" drift punch through the hole in the base and depress the magazine base plunger approximately ¬ ". Slide the base forward very slowly, being very careful to keep the plunger and mainspring under control at all times. If not contained, these parts will fly out with considerable force. With the base fully removed, slowly relax the pressure on the plunger and spring and remove them. Hold the magazine flat with the magazine follower button up. Align the magazine follower button with the circular opening near the lower end of the magazine tube. Lift out the button. The magazine follower can now be removed.
CLEAN THE PISTOL
Gather together the proper sized cleaning rod with a .22 caliber brass or bronze bristle bore brush and a slotted tip into which a cleaning patch can be inserted. Also needed are clean cloth patches and clean soft cloths. Do not use stainless steel brushes on the weapon unless the Mark II is constructed of stainless steel. Stainless steel brushes will remove the bluing on blued pistols. A bronze or brass "toothbrush" is especially helpful for scrubbing parts. Do not use the bore brush for scrubbing anything except the barrel and magazine housing.
Combat Arms and the United States military recommend that you use Break-Free (CLP)(tm). Under no circumstances should you ever use WD-40(tm) on any weapon! If you need a solvent, Combat Arms recommends that you use Shooter's Choice(tm) followed by CLP. The Ruger Mark II should be cleaned at least every 400 rounds and after each firing period.
Using a cleaning rod with a slotted tip, run a CLP wetted patch through the full length of the barrel from the chamber end several times to remove loose material. Then attach a bronze or brass bristle bore brush to the cleaning rod and wet it in CLP. Run the bore brush back and forth through the full length of the barrel at least a dozen times. Make sure that the rod is pushed all the way through the barrel until the entire bore brush clears the muzzle end. Do not reverse the direction of the brush until it has completely exited from the muzzle end of the barrel or the bore brush may bind up inside the barrel.
Using the toothbrush soaked in CLP, scrub the area around the chamber until it is clean. Remove the bore brush from the cleaning rod and attach the slotted tip again. Run several dry patches through the barrel until they come out clean. If necessary, attach the bore brush to the cleaning rod again and scrub the barrel with a CLP soaked bore brush. Continue the process until the barrel is clean.
Failing to do this consistently and properly will cause fouling of the barrel with a natural loss of accuracy. Grease accumulation in the chamber area can interfere with the proper feeding of cartridges from the magazine.
Using a loose clean patch soaked with CLP, remove all powder residue from all components of the mechanism. If grease or dirt cannot be removed by merely wiping with the patch, then use your brass toothbrush soaked with CLP. After using the brass toothbrush, wipe all of the scrubbed areas with a clean CLP wetted patch. After cleaning the bore, run a clean dry patch through the barrel and then follow it with a patch that has a light coat of CLP on it. This will put a light coat of CLP on the inside of the barrel and protect it from corrosion.
Wipe all surfaces with a clean cloth that has a light coat of CLP on it. If the lower receiver and its mechanism is especially dirty, flood it with CLP, leave it sit soaking for 2 hours and then flush it out with more CLP. Remove the grip panels before soaking or flushing the pistol and make certain that all foreign matter is removed after cleaning. Lightly lubricate the lower receiver with CLP after cleaning.
When cleaning the bolt face, breech areas, etc. with the toothbrush, work carefully so as not to damage components.
Reassemble the pistol as detailed later in this manual. If the Ruger Mark II pistol is to be stored for an extended period, the final wiping should be done with a heavier coat of CLP.
Clean the internal and external parts of the disassembled magazine with CLP. The inside of the magazine can be scrubbed with a bore brush soaked in CLP. After scrubbing, remove all loose material with several clean patches, just like you did with the cleaning of the barrel. Leave a very light coat of CLP on the inside of the magazine and on the magazine spring.
- MAGAZINE CLEANING CAUTION -
Be careful not to scratch the interior and exterior of the Ruger M10 magazine, particularly along the front section where the bullet tips ride. Be very careful not to bend the magazine lips.
Only a very small amount of CLP is needed to provide adequate lubrication of all moving parts in the Ruger Mark II and to prevent rust. Accumulation of CLP can attract particles of dust and dirt which can interfere with the safe and reliable function of the pistol. Do not, therefore, apply excess CLP unless storing the weapon for an extended period of time. If storing the weapon and using a heavy coating of CLP, the weapon should be disassembled and re-cleaned and lubricated with a light coating of CLP before firing.
- STORAGE WARNING -
If the pistol has been stored, before firing it again, completely disassemble it as detailed elsewhere in this manual, remove all grease and lubricant, apply a light coating of CLP to all parts as described in the section on cleaning and be sure to run a dry patch through the barrel after cleaning with a bore brush soaked in CLP. Do not keep the pistol stored in a leather holster or leather case. Leather attracts moisture, even though the holster or case may appear to be perfectly dry. Never store the Mark II pistol in such a manner as it may be dislodged. Always store the Mark II securely and unloaded.
- LUBRICATION WARNING -
Firing the pistol with oil, grease or any other material even partially obstructing the barrel may result in damage to the pistol and death or injury to the user and those persons nearby. Never spray or apply any lubricants directly to the ammunition. If the powder charge of a cartridge is affected by the lubricant, it is possible that the charge will not ignite but the energy from the primer in the cartridge case may be sufficient to push the bullet into the barrel where it may be lodged. Firing a subsequent bullet into the obstructed barrel may damage the pistol and cause death or injury to the user and persons nearby. Use all lubricants properly and according to the lubricant manufacturer's suggestions and recommendations.
Reassembling the Ruger Mark II
ASSEMBLY OF THE MAGAZINE
Assemble the magazine in the reverse order of its disassembly, being especially careful to contain the spring and plunger as the base is being locked into place. After assembly of the magazine, test the follower to ensure that it has free movement.
ASSEMBLY OF THE BOLT
The bolt is assembled in the reverse order of its disassembly. When installing the firing pin spring, make certain that the front of the support curves DOWN into the bolt. After assembly, test the extractor and firing pin for free movement. Put the recoil spring assembly back into the bolt.
INSTALLATION OF THE UPPER RECEIVER ASSEMBLY
Grasp the lower receiver in a natural shooting position. Point the pistol upward vertically and pull the trigger to pivot the hammer backward to a cocked position. Lower the pistol to a horizontal position. Place the upper receiver about ¬" ahead of its final position and press it backward and downward so that the trigger guard lug engages the front recess on the bottom of the upper receiver. The upper receiver is properly aligned when the rear end of the upper receiver is approximately even with the rear end of the lower receiver. If proper alignment is not achieved by mere hand pressure then it is necessary to strike the muzzle with a plastic, rubber or wooden hammer. Inspect the inside of the receiver to see if the hammer is up. If the hammer is up, the bolt will not go into the receiver. If the hammer is up, point the pistol up vertically and pull the trigger to make the hammer go to the cocked position and ensure that the hammer strut is free.
INSTALLATION OF THE BOLT ASSEMBLY INTO THE RECEIVER
With the muzzle still pointing slightly upward, insert the bolt into the receiver SPRING SIDE UP. If you put it straight in, the bolt will easily slide right into the receiver.
- FIRING PIN STOP WARNING -
When sliding the bolt assembly into the receiver, be certain that the firing pin stop is in the bolt. If the bolt is assembled without the firing pin stop in place, the first time the Mark II pistol is dry fired (no live cartridge in the chamber), the firing pin will be free to move forward to the extent that it will dent the rear face of the chamber, thus rendering the upper receiver useless and beyond repair.
INSTALLATION OF THE MAINSPRING HOUSING ASSEMBLY
Point the empty pistol downward and pull the trigger until the hammer falls forward to its vertical (fired) position. Grasp the mainspring housing and insert the mainspring housing into the receiver by positioning the mainspring housing pin into the bottom of the hole in the lower receiver and push it straight up through the hole in the upper receiver. As the mainspring housing pin is pushed upward through the receivers, it passes through the slot in the bolt and also passes by the rear end of the recoil spring guide, camming the recoil spring guide forward to put initial tension into the recoil spring. Continue pressing the mainspring housing pin upward through the receivers until the mainspring housing pin protrudes about 1/8 inch above the top of the upper receiver. During this step, be certain that the rear of the bolt is flush with the rear of the receiver and that the hammer is in its fired (forward) position. When the hammer is in the forward position, it is then possible to observe the hammer strut. The mainspring housing pin will snap into place when it has traveled to its correct position.
VERIFY THAT THE HAMMER IS AGAIN FORWARD
Point the empty pistol down towards the floor and pull the trigger. This will cause the hammer to fall forward. Release the trigger and do not touch it again!
REPOSITION THE HAMMER STRUT
Point the MARK II straight up until you hear the hammer strut fall back with a slight click. You will have to raise the pistol rapidly to cause the hammer strut to fall back. Do not pull the trigger. Keep the Mark II pointing upward.
LATCHING THE MAINSPRING HOUSING
The mainspring housing is now ready to be swung shut but it is essential that the hammer strut comes to rest on the mainspring plunger as the housing is closed. The mainspring plunger lies inside the mainspring housing and may be seen through the slot in the upper end of the housing. If the hammer strut does not contact the mainspring plunger as the housing is swung shut, it will either be impossible to complete the closure of the housing or the housing may be closed but it will be impossible to draw the bolt all the way back. It is also essential that the hammer itself be in its uncocked forward position (resting against the firing pin) as the mainspring housing is swung shut. With the MARK II still pointing up vertically and tilted at a slight angle to cause the hammer strut to drop into the correct position to meet the mainspring plunger in the mainspring housing, close and latch the mainspring housing by pushing the latch into its original position with the heel of your hand.
TESTING FOR PROPER ENGAGEMENT
When proper engagement is achieved, closure is complete against the tension of the mainspring, which can be felt as the mainspring housing is pushed into the recess in the back strap. To find out if you did everything correctly, grasp the bolt ears and pull the bolt back. If the bolt comes all the way back, you reassembled the Ruger Mark II correctly. If the bolt fails to come back, it is because the hammer strut is improperly positioned. If the hammer strut is improperly positioned, then open the mainspring housing again and go back to the step entitled VERIFY THAT THE HAMMER IS AGAIN FORWARD.
Now the bolt is clean, and reassembled, and the whole gun is to be reassembled - remember that this part can be done in 60 seconds. With the hammer horizontal put the receiver/barrel on the grip frame - and hit the front of the barrel with the plastic hammer if necessary - I always have to hit it, and give it quite a good smack. Before disassembling, note how far back the receiver has to go compared the the back end of the grip frame, and this will give you better guidance than the vague words in the manual.
Point the muzzle up, pulling the trigger so that the hammer falls back and the hammer strut is hanging back, and put in the bolt. Now you want the hammer back forward - so either tilt the muzzle down and pull the trigger, or reach in with a small rod or screwdriver and push the hammer forward while pulling the trigger. Now insert the bolt stop pin through the holes in the grip frame and receiver - it goes in kind of hard because it has to push the back end of the recoil spring assembly out of the way. If it won't go in, the barrel/receiver may be just short of all the way back and needs another smack with the mallet!
Now comes another trick - tilt the barrel up at about 45 degrees, and notice the little hammer strut swinging free - you want it to fit into the small canyon shaped depression on the forward top face of the mainspring housing, just below where the bolt stop pin latches. You swing in the mainspring housing so the hammer strut goes in there, and then the mainspring housing fits into the grip frame easily and you latch it in place with the housing latch.
Point the muzzle up, pulling the trigger so that the hammer falls back and the hammer strut is hanging back, and put in the bolt. Now you want the hammer back forward - so either tilt the muzzle down and pull the trigger, or reach in with a small rod or screwdriver and push the hammer forward while pulling the trigger. Now insert the bolt stop pin through the holes in the grip frame and receiver - it goes in kind of hard because it has to push the back end of the recoil spring assembly out of the way. If it won't go in, the barrel/receiver may be just short of all the way back and needs another smack with the mallet!
Now comes another trick - tilt the barrel up at about 45 degrees, and notice the little hammer strut swinging free - you want it to fit into the small canyon shaped depression on the forward top face of the mainspring housing, just below where the bolt stop pin latches. You swing in the mainspring housing so the hammer strut goes in there, and then the mainspring housing fits into the grip frame easily and you latch it in place with the housing latch.
