Ruger Blackhawk Tuner in Canada?
- Thread starter Lorne3006
- Start date
Here are a few authorized repair centers:
http://www.ruger.com/service/international.html
I have ordered parts from Snapshots in Quebec and the service was prompt.
http://www.ruger.com/service/international.html
I have ordered parts from Snapshots in Quebec and the service was prompt.
Thanks Guys, All helpful.
I purchased a stainless steel Super Blackhawk last winter from a fellow gunnutz, after reading John Taffin's book on "Single Action Sixguns"
I didn't get around to trying to shoot it till now and find that it has issues!
At any rate if one of the above can fix it all will be happy
Thanks and Cheers
I purchased a stainless steel Super Blackhawk last winter from a fellow gunnutz, after reading John Taffin's book on "Single Action Sixguns"
I didn't get around to trying to shoot it till now and find that it has issues!
At any rate if one of the above can fix it all will be happy
Thanks and Cheers
The main issue is that it does not fire every time the hammer is dropped on a live round, this was about 2 or 3 outta 5. previous owner had replaced original spring with bullseye kit, so I put original back and it is still 1 in 5 wont fire.
Also the recoil sheild on the left side is very rough and fired cartridges tend to catch up on it.
The rear site won't screw to the bottom (even with no springs), I think it needs more threads, as it is shoots ~5" high @ 25 yards and is climbing. I want to shoot light loads for fun so presume they would shoot even higher.
other than that it does look nice!
Cheers
Also the recoil sheild on the left side is very rough and fired cartridges tend to catch up on it.
The rear site won't screw to the bottom (even with no springs), I think it needs more threads, as it is shoots ~5" high @ 25 yards and is climbing. I want to shoot light loads for fun so presume they would shoot even higher.
other than that it does look nice!
Cheers
sid strait
New member
- Location
- north west of edmonton
rugers
one thing I found with mine was that someone in the past tightened the grips too tight and broke out the inside , thus catching on the main spring, solved this by glueing grip back together and using a peice of plastc (cut off pen) too tighten the grip on. with the loads, try loading to factory spec to see if that helps bring around point of impact, I like a full load of blackpowder it gives a nice booom.
one thing I found with mine was that someone in the past tightened the grips too tight and broke out the inside , thus catching on the main spring, solved this by glueing grip back together and using a peice of plastc (cut off pen) too tighten the grip on. with the loads, try loading to factory spec to see if that helps bring around point of impact, I like a full load of blackpowder it gives a nice booom.
O dear... sounds like Mr. Bubba got his grubby little paws on it somewhere along the line.
We're all sort of guessing here, but might there be some crud in the firing pin channel that is preventing the FP from going fully forward? Have you removed the FP and made sure everything is clean in there and the fp and spring can move freely? Sid Strait's comment is worth looking into, too. Put some Prussian Blue (dark blue grease used for checking contact between parts; CT should have it) on the spring and see if any blue comes off on the inside of the grips.
As regards the rear sight, are you sure the threads aren't stripped?
No clue about the rough recoil shield but surely there should be some clearance between the case head and the shield? The cases shouldn't be backing out.
Stuart
We're all sort of guessing here, but might there be some crud in the firing pin channel that is preventing the FP from going fully forward? Have you removed the FP and made sure everything is clean in there and the fp and spring can move freely? Sid Strait's comment is worth looking into, too. Put some Prussian Blue (dark blue grease used for checking contact between parts; CT should have it) on the spring and see if any blue comes off on the inside of the grips.
As regards the rear sight, are you sure the threads aren't stripped?
No clue about the rough recoil shield but surely there should be some clearance between the case head and the shield? The cases shouldn't be backing out.
Stuart
- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
Without seeing the gun, if the recoil shield is rough enough to cause the cartridges to hang up, that to me is a red flag and suggests that the gun should be checked out before it is used again. The failure to fire could be caused by a number of factors, and although light hammer strikes seem to be the most likely it is not the only possibility.
Check your ammo. If your primers are high enough to cause the round to rock when placed base down on a hard flat surface like a piece of glass, ignition could be irregular, especially if combined with a light hammer strike. The high primer will also use up the clearance between the cylinder face and the recoil shield making cocking difficult and leaving one with the impression that the recoil shield is rough. Some years ago I knew a guy who wasn't particularly careful when seating primers, and a round (I don't recall if it was the one at the 10:00 or the 02:00 position) fired when he fired the gun, the gun was damaged but he was fortunate and escaped injury.
I experienced a failure with Ruger's factory adjustable rear sight, and in a heavy recoil application I think they are a little delicate. Google Bowen Classic Arms and order their Rough Country rear sight for your gun. These are much stronger that the factory sights, and windage adjustment is by opposing screws where one is backed off and the other advanced rather than a spring loaded affair with a single screw. Adjusted to it's the lowest position, this sight is the strongest handgun sight in the industry next to a grooved top strap, and it provides a better sight picture than that.
