Ruger GP100 advice please

Aside from the size of the grip I have to ask why you're set on the GP100? I owned both a GP100 with Hogue grip and a S&W 686 with Hogue grip. Much, much preferred the S&W, sold the GP100. Something about the angle and the geometry of the hammer just made the GP100 hard to #### for SA and the recoil was harder to manage. Even though the GP had a fiber optic front sight and I really wanted to like it just couldn't. I know of course that's just personal preference and there are as many fans of the Ruger as there are for the S&W. Just posting my experience with the two of them.

Did you ever try another grip on your GP? I find the Hogue grip for the GP has way to much material at the back of the frame whereas the Smith is exposed along the backstrap of the frame making for a much better fit in my hand. The original GP grip (like the Altamonts in the pic above) with the wood panels or another brand like Uncle Mikes are much better fit for me.
 
Did you ever try another grip on your GP? I find the Hogue grip for the GP has way to much material at the back of the frame whereas the Smith is exposed along the backstrap of the frame making for a much better fit in my hand. The original GP grip (like the Altamonts in the pic above) with the wood panels or another brand like Uncle Mikes are much better fit for me.

No, I never tried different grips. I bought both of them with the rubber grips and the S&W pretty much fit me perfectly and I found myself being quite accurate with it. The Ruger was painful to use and I could barely hit the paper. You're probably right that I could have improved it considerably with time and effort to try different grips but seeing as how I also found cocking the hammer to be a worse experience and since the S&W was so good I wasn't motivated to do so.
 
Would really appreciate it if someone could measure the distance from the middle face of the trigger to the topmost portion of the backstrap, thanks in advance.

Sorry- I completely missed this bit. Does this help?

GP100 measurement.jpg
 

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I am thinking of getting a GP100, but since I got small hand I am not sure it will fit my hand.

As a side note, I don't have any problem with a 1911 commander. I do find it hard to reach for the trigger in DA mode for a Norinco NP34 ( SIG P228 clone ).

The local store don't carry the Ruger so I can't really do the "try and buy" routine.

Thanks.

My hands are not big; 1911 fits great; same with CZ75; I "tried on" a GP100 at a local dealer, and found the rubber combat grip to be amazing. I have bought one and am waiting on the transfer. I had an old model black-hawk years ago, and it was not a good fit. It also had a great trigger.
 
Thanks all for the reply.
I would be using the revolver for PPC ( just for fun so no need for a S&W custom ) so it will have to be a 6 shot unfortunately.

Would really appreciate it if someone could measure the distance from the middle face of the trigger to the topmost portion of the backstrap, thanks in advance.

That is what I will be using mine for; I got the 4.2" version.
 
Buy the 4.2" version of the GP100 so you can fire the "Service" course of fire. (48 rounds) You can even employ it for the 600 PPC course using the B34 target. Ruger's GP 100 uses "L" frame SafariLand speedloaders.
The GP100 is a fine revolver, capable of outstanding accuracy. A reduced power spring kit will make it better still.

Another big advantage is that the GP100 has a removable front sight. You will eventually want to change it out for a solid patridge sight or even a fibre optic sight. (S&W 66's & 19's don't offer this)
 
Buy the 4.2" version of the GP100 so you can fire the "Service" course of fire. (48 rounds) You can even employ it for the 600 PPC course using the B34 target. Ruger's GP 100 uses "L" frame SafariLand speedloaders.
The GP100 is a fine revolver, capable of outstanding accuracy. A reduced power spring kit will make it better still.

Another big advantage is that the GP100 has a removable front sight. You will eventually want to change it out for a solid patridge sight or even a fibre optic sight. (S&W 66's & 19's don't offer this)

Absolutely.
I installed a Wolff's 10 lbs for the hammer and a 8lbs for the return.....sweet.
And Williams Firesights, red FO front, green FO rear.
 
Absolutely.
I installed a Wolff's 10 lbs for the hammer and a 8lbs for the return.....sweet.
And Williams Firesights, red FO front, green FO rear.

I am getting happier and happier buy the minute with my purchase; and I don't even have it yet!!
 
Another big advantage is that the GP100 has a removable front sight. You will eventually want to change it out for a solid patridge sight or even a fibre optic sight. (S&W 66's & 19's don't offer this)

The 66/19 sights are removable but pinned (no quick change). I replaced mine with an SDM fibre optic.
 
I have a GP100 Match Champion. I have large hands (according to glove sizes), but I would consider them medium. I love the feel and have full control of the gun at all times. My wife, who is a little thing LOVES the GP100 and also has no issues with feeling and control. Need to find a dealer with one and go handle it, you will be dam happy ! IMHO
 
I have a good friend stateside that offered up the following statement: "Rugers are great "kit" guns. Buy one, fix it up and go shoot the heck out of it."

Here is what I did to my GP-100"

1. Had the cylinders reamed to .358 (three of my cylinders would not allow a .356 slug to pass through them. The others were .357 which would have meant poor accuracy with lead bullets. I shoot lead almost exclusively in my GP-100.

2. I had the forcing cone cut to 11 degrees from the factory 5 degrees to facilitate shooting lead bullets.

3. I installed trigger and hammer shims which improved the trigger pull.

4. Installed a FO front sight.

5. Replaced the hammer spring and the trigger return spring to reduce trigger pull.

I have not polished the innards but really should to get an even smoother trigger pull. After approx. 4K rounds I doubt I would see much improvement.

The gun exhibits outstanding accuracy off the bench. Has a well deserved reputation of being built like a tank. Note: It weighs less than my S&W 686 No Dash. It has a lighter, and smoother trigger pull than my stock 686. Both are accurate and durable. Personally I much prefer the Ruger with it's modern trigger assembly. Detail stripping is easy, something I do about once a year.

The Ruger is my competition gun. My 686 with a 105.14MM barrel is my range gun and is on my hip when I wilderness carry.

To the OP if you have really small fingers than you likely will struggle with both guns IMHO. You may not but most folks I have seen shoot with very small fingers really do struggle with the revolver trigger reach, less with K frame guns than the L frame.

Hope this helps. Shooting revolvers is great fun. I have only shot PPC once but enjoyed the experience. IDPA is a completely different sport when you switch to revolvers. Both are great fun.

Take Care

Bob
ps Most of what I did has been now incorporated in the GP-100 Match Champion.
 
it is a hand full
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