Ruger Hawkeye stock fit

Joel

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Caveat here that I haven't shot the rifle yet, but...

I picked up a new to me Ruger hawkeye rifle, and it looks like they want a pressure point at the forend tip? Cool, but when I handle or really grip on the forestock I can hear wood creak and move a lil bit.

Is that pretty much how the stock fits on the Hawkeyes and its good to go?

And yeah, I've already had friends offer a hundred bucks to take this dog off my hands, just to be chums :rolleyes: ;)
 
That is not how they fit... check the forward action bolt, that angles in to the stock... first loosen both rear bolts, and then tighten the front bolt as much as you can, then just snug down the two rear bolts... the rifle should fit solidly with no movement... if there is still movement, there may be an inletting issue that could require some minor bedding.
 
Thanks Hoyt, I did as you said just now and still perceive a little bit of flex/movement in the forend tip. Sounds like there is something thats going to need some work here.
 
I am guessing there is supposed to be a pressure point there up front which it is lacking? when I get the chance to shoot it I will see if shimming the tip with a bit of business card makes a difference...if it needs such.
 
The way the mounting system works you can float the barrel... try running a bill between the barrel and stock, maybe there is a pressure point that needs to be sanded out... to sand it out, get a 5/8" dowel and wrap a piece of 120 grit sandpaper around it until you get the right diameter, after sanding the channel, seal it with three coats of Tru-Oil.

Actually it just occurred to me that you may have a synthetic stock and not a walnut stock?
 
No sir its a walnut stock.

And alright thanks! I was unaware it was meant to be floated. It definitely is not as it sits right now. I cannot get a regular piece of paper between the barrel and the stock's tip at all.

I had really thought the Hawkeyes were not supposed to come floated but pressure bedded.
 
Think I can see where its making contact though...hard to get a picture of.

20190331-135252-resized.jpg
 
Looks like there is definitely supposed to be a pressure pad at the forend tip just ahead of where they stopped that inletted groove that the sling swivel screws into.

Before taking any material off and free floating, I am going to try shooting it with and without a piece of business card laid over that raised platform as a shim. Putting one in and then reinstalling the screws definitely removed any play and movement.

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I just free floated my Hawkeye. Mine was same as yours, a bit if a lip at the end that contacted the barrel. Shot it lots before free floating, haven't shot it since to see if it helped at all.
 
How was it doing before you free floated, Freddy? Did it shoot well as it was?

That is not a pressure pad, they just relieve the stock behind the tip to lighten the weight... I have had literally hundreds of Ruger rifles and I floated them all for best grouping... often they are fully relieved from the factory, but sometimes you do it yourself... it is a ten minute job.
 
How was it doing before you free floated, Freddy? Did it shoot well as it was?

Ya it shot not bad, in between 1 and 1.5 MOA with the load I have been working with. Was good enough for a hunting rifle but I got to tinkering with it this winter just because. My stock was a tight fit all the way to the action so I sanded quite a bit down.....Might have got a little carried away but it sure is floated now.

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That is not a pressure pad, they just relieve the stock behind the tip to lighten the weight... I have had literally hundreds of Ruger rifles and I floated them all for best grouping... often they are fully relieved from the factory, but sometimes you do it yourself... it is a ten minute job.

That's what I thought it was as well since it seemed to come up to meet the barrel deliberately. But that makes sense that it was for weight savings.
 
That's what I thought it was as well since it seemed to come up to meet the barrel deliberately. But that makes sense that it was for weight savings.

They can't hog out the barrel channel all the way to the tip, because it would show at the end and would also weaken the lateral strength of the stock at it's narrowest point... relieving the barrel channel at the tip (if necessary) and at the chamber swell will improve groups, 9 time out of 10... but my general rule is; "always shoot the rifle first"... if it is extremely accurate, leave well enough alone... if not then play with the action bolt tension and barrel relief. In only a couple cases was bedding necessary, but bedding is never a bad idea, until it is done poorly.
 
Looks good Freddy!

And thanks for the advice Hoyt...it is appreciated. We'll see how it shoots and if it isn't up to par (thinking it probably will not be) dowel and sandpaper it is.
 
Looks good Freddy!

And thanks for the advice Hoyt...it is appreciated. We'll see how it shoots and if it isn't up to par (thinking it probably will not be) dowel and sandpaper it is.

By the way... that stock is not original to the rifle, that could be part of the problem... good luck. I am pretty sure the rifle will shoot for you.
 
Its not the factory Hawkeye stock?

I don't believe that they ever produced an "R" model (22" plain barrel, no sights) in matte stainless/walnut stock... It is probably a Hawkeye (MKII) walnut stock, but somebody switched it from synthetic to walnut.
 
Really? I didn't know. Thought it was a factory Hawkeye.

55554518-593995697742135-2397149246512955392-n.jpg


https://www.ruger.com/products/HawkeyeStandard/models.html
 
Really? I didn't know. Thought it was a factory Hawkeye.

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https://www.ruger.com/products/HawkeyeStandard/models.html

It is a factory Hawkeye, but I am pretty sure that the stock and metal left the factory separately... It looks like the HKM77R model, that was in a synthetic stock and was changed to walnut. I can't tell in your picture, but is the receiver Blued or matte stainless? What cartridge is it chambered for?
 
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