Ruger Mark III target Stainless

diopter

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Met a friend at the range last night. He could not get his re-assembled after weeks of trying.
He asked for help. Took me a few hours to get it done. The Mainspring assembly locking rod/pin was a beast to get in through the frame and receiver.
Rotational alignment was slightly off vertically and also had to use rubber mallet to move receiver front and back to align with frame holes.

Is this normal for Ruger Mark III Target's ?????
What a pain compared to majority of my target 22's, Pardini SP, Walther GSP, IzH 35m and High Stardard Supermatic Trophy.
 
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This is one case where the owner's manual is a key determinant in how easy (or how difficult) reassembly can be. Having read the manual, it's not that difficult. Compared to many designs, reassembly is more complicated, but the complexity is compounded if one tries to do it without having read the manual.

Ruger heard the complaints though, and that is why the MKIV changed almost everything.
 
Met a friend at the range last night. He could not get his re-assembled after weeks of trying.
He asked for help. Took me a few hours to get it done. The Mainspring assembly locking rod/pin was a beast to get in through the frame and receiver.
Rotational alignment was slightly off vertically and also had to use rubber mallet to move receiver front and back to align with frame holes.

Is this normal for Ruger Mark III Target's ?????
What a pain compared to majority of my target 22's, Pardini SP, Walther GSP, IzH 35m and High Stardard Supermatic Trophy.



Go on youtube . tons of videos . you would have had it back to together in no time .
 
From the YT videos I watched while doing it, it was obvious this Target model was much tighter than any on the videos, normally a good thing for precision.
I think this one has a miss-aligned welded plate in the frame's rear that caused this aggravation.

Ruger-MKIII-schem-Welded-plate.jpg
 
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From the YT videos I watched while doing it, it was obvious this Target model was much tighter than any on the videos, normally a good thing for precision.
I think this one has a miss-aligned welded plate in the frame's rear that caused this aggravation.

Ruger-MKIII-schem-Welded-plate.jpg

OP,
Once you align the upper bolt tab slots to the lower receiver.
Insert the mainspring/bolt stop pin into the upper/lower by turning the said assy perpendicular for alignment purposes from behind the rear sight.
Insert the bolt assy into the upper.
Insert the bolt stop/mainspring into the lower.
Squeeze the trigger & drop the hammer to the fired position.
Invert the pistol to visually align the hammer strut into the mainspring housing.
IF,the mainspring housing does not have preload prior to rotating the latch, the hammer strut is not positioned properly.
 
The mk III i had was very tight as well. Even after hundreds of assemblies and dis assemblies I still had to use a nylon mallet on the upper and lower. Some are tighter than others.
 
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