Ruger Mark IV Target

Leavenworth said:
Received the Ruger MarkIV Target yesterday but did not have a whole lot of time to go over it , but hopefully will tonight .
Of course a couple of questions for you fellas .
#1 Is the trigger metal it seemed like plastic ?
#2 When pulling the bolt back to the utmost rear position should it lock in place ?
#3 I have heard that you should not depress the slide lock button to release the bolt , rather release the bolt by pulling back on the bolt and let it go ?
Thank You !
Leavenworth
Click to expand...

1) trigger is metal, atleast the OEM one. I'm not aware of any polymer models, but maybe the 22/45 has that option.
2) the bolt, like any other, will cycle freely forward and back unless you insert an empty mag or manually engage the slide lock.
3) that may have been an issue on earlier models, but there's no reason to not use the slide lock as intended. I haven't personally experienced any stoppages or misfeeding by using the slide lock to release the bolt.

If you've got any other questions, fire away!
 
Thanks very much for the reply ! This pistol thing is all new to me and I need to know for safe operation of them . You don’t get to spend a whole lot of time with the Restricted's when you take the course and of course don’t have a lot of models to handle . I only have experience with bolt action long guns for hunting .
Leavenworth
lerch641 said:
1) trigger is metal, atleast the OEM one. I'm not aware of any polymer models, but maybe the 22/45 has that option.
2) the bolt, like any other, will cycle freely forward and back unless you insert an empty mag or manually engage the slide lock.
3) that may have been an issue on earlier models, but there's no reason to not use the slide lock as intended. I haven't personally experienced any stoppages or misfeeding by using the slide lock to release the bolt.

If you've got any other questions, fire away!
Click to expand...
 
You did say fire away with any questions so…..
It looks to me that the rear site on the Ruger is out of line ,looks to be canted a bit . I have a very good eye for detail and I’m anal . How can I accurately check that I wonder ? Not sure if I want to start monkeying with the screws on the rear sight before I have even shot it . The rear site does not seem to be real rigid .
Thanks Leavenworth
lerch641 said:
1) trigger is metal, atleast the OEM one. I'm not aware of any polymer models, but maybe the 22/45 has that option.
2) the bolt, like any other, will cycle freely forward and back unless you insert an empty mag or manually engage the slide lock.
3) that may have been an issue on earlier models, but there's no reason to not use the slide lock as intended. I haven't personally experienced any stoppages or misfeeding by using the slide lock to release the bolt.

If you've got any other questions, fire away!
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
That's weird. Can you post a photo? Canted horizontally or vertically? I assume you mean "canted" as in rotationally out of alignment with the bore and/or frame.

If it's what I imagine, I would mount the pistol in a soft jaw vise that is known to be square (or can be adjusted to square). Use a level to confirm that the frame is plumb in the vise, then use the level to confirm the rear sight is also level.
 
Thank You for the reply ! I have edited my previous post as I was typing to fast !Okay will try and get photos up soon . Going to be going on holidays soon so lots to do .
alpining said:
That's weird. Can you post a photo? Canted horizontally or vertically? I assume you mean "canted" as in rotationally out of alignment with the bore and/or frame.

If it's what I imagine, I would mount the pistol in a soft jaw vise that is known to be square (or can be adjusted to square). Use a level to confirm that the frame is plumb in the vise, then use the level to confirm the rear sight is also level.
Click to expand...
 
Leavenworth said:
Another question . At what distance should I be shooting to get a good grouping ( what distance to zero it )
Thank You !
Leavenworth
Click to expand...

Good grouping is about you, not the gun. The distance you sight in at depends on what you are doing with it... if you shoot steel challenge I would sight-in @ 15 meters. If you are plinking, sight in for your typical range.
 
Thanks Hoyt
I was following a few of your postings on various things ! Hunting topics mostly
Leavenworth
hoytcanon said:
Good grouping is about you, not the gun. The distance you sight in at depends on what you are doing with it... if you shoot steel challenge I would sight-in @ 15 meters. If you are plinking, sight in for your typical range.
Click to expand...
 
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