kschneider
Regular
- Location
- southern ontario
Yes I have done this a time or two. Works well.
Ruger Mk III vs Browning Buckmark
- Thread starter Mr. Friendly
- Start date
Yes I have done this a time or two. Works well.
- Location
- British Canuckistan
I've decided on the SS Ruger Mark III Hunter or Competition w/6" barrel. now to find someone that has it in stock.
love the looks of the Target w/Silver Hogue that Lipsey's had custom done for them.
love the looks of the Target w/Silver Hogue that Lipsey's had custom done for them.
I've decided on the SS Ruger Mark III Hunter or Competition w/6" barrel. now to find someone that has it in stock.
love the looks of the Target w/Silver Hogue that Lipsey's had custom done for them.
I've been looking around for a stainless mark III . Seems to be hard to find them anywhere let me know if you have any luck
I have a Ruger mk III, and honestly the take-down is not hard. I can strip the thing down to the frame in a couple of minutes, it is that easy. Putting it back together is not much harder as long as you follow the directions.
I find the sticking points for most people are:
1) The Hammer Strut: it has to be free, and sitting on top of the hammer strut pin, which can be seen from the back of the grip where the mainspring goes. If the strut falls behind the pin you can still assemble the gun, but it won't work. The giveaway is if done correctly the mainspring will have a little bounce: you'll have to press it into the gun while closing the latch. if the mainspring can fall flush into the gun without pressure, you've done it wrong.
2) Hammer position aka Why can't I get the bolt back into the gun: if the bolt won't fit into the gun, 9 out of 10 times this is because your hammer is up. To free the hammer insert a magazine into the frame and pull the trigger while holding the gun muzzle-up. This should cause the hammer to fall backwards. Shaking it a bit helps too. First thing I would do with a MK III is replace the hammer bushing and remove the magazine disconnect, which makes disassembly way easier.
3) Can't get the mainspring back into the gun: this is the one that gets me the most. When you put the upper and lower parts of the pistol together, it's possible to tap the lower receiver in just a little bit too far so that the holes for the bolt stop pin don't line up perfectly. It's really hard to see when they're not lined up properly until you try to run the bolt stop pin into the pistol.
I find the sticking points for most people are:
1) The Hammer Strut: it has to be free, and sitting on top of the hammer strut pin, which can be seen from the back of the grip where the mainspring goes. If the strut falls behind the pin you can still assemble the gun, but it won't work. The giveaway is if done correctly the mainspring will have a little bounce: you'll have to press it into the gun while closing the latch. if the mainspring can fall flush into the gun without pressure, you've done it wrong.
2) Hammer position aka Why can't I get the bolt back into the gun: if the bolt won't fit into the gun, 9 out of 10 times this is because your hammer is up. To free the hammer insert a magazine into the frame and pull the trigger while holding the gun muzzle-up. This should cause the hammer to fall backwards. Shaking it a bit helps too. First thing I would do with a MK III is replace the hammer bushing and remove the magazine disconnect, which makes disassembly way easier.
3) Can't get the mainspring back into the gun: this is the one that gets me the most. When you put the upper and lower parts of the pistol together, it's possible to tap the lower receiver in just a little bit too far so that the holes for the bolt stop pin don't line up perfectly. It's really hard to see when they're not lined up properly until you try to run the bolt stop pin into the pistol.
Last edited:
I have one of these installed in a mk iii. It makes cleaning the barrel and bolt easier, because you can just run a cleaning rod through it. As for actually stripping the gun, the two-piece bolt stop pin can make it a bit easier. You can just remove the bolt stop bin, slide the bolt out, and then remove the mainspring housing as normal. Stripping from this point is the same as not having the kit, but it cuts out the pain in the butt that is removing the mainspring housing. You can reassmble the gun the same way: replace the bolt and mainspring housing, then insert the bolt stop pin through the top.
The new hammer and bushing also remove magazine disconnect and improve the trigger pull so that's a bonus. I think only one store in Canada stocks the kit, but you can order it from certain sites in the US for less.
Last edited:
Chefhunter
CGN Regular
- Location
- Maple ridge
I have the Browning and have yet to break it down (maybe 2k rounds) bore snake,spray the action a little brush work and done....it runs smooth and no hiccups. I'll consider breaking it down if I start getting failures! I also debated between the two pistols and chose the browning based on ergonomics, personally I think they are both exceptional pistols and whatever one you choose you have a winner
- Location
- West Quebec
Even Browning suggests you not break it down to the basics to clean.. Chefhunter probably does it as close to the recommended..
