umm... because they cant supply them either. Ruger will not sell certain parts without the factory fitting them - the safety is one of them.
Ruger No.1 Questions*Ejecting Shells and Scoping*
- Thread starter Moose Masher
- Start date
umm... because they cant supply them either. Ruger will not sell certain parts without the factory fitting them - the safety is one of them.
All four of my No.1's hold back the shell on ejection. Usually I like this as it saves me from chasing brass.
On my .338, which I use in grizz country, I was going to do the file and bend trick until I saw a post a while back from a fellow CGN 'er. He said that after firing just #### (rotate) the gun slightly left or right at your wrist depending on what hand you are as you are ejecting the shell and there is no hangup. I tried it and it works great for me and is a very natural thing to do when shooting field type positions with a little practice I don't even think about it anymore and still have brass retention when I need it..
On my .338, which I use in grizz country, I was going to do the file and bend trick until I saw a post a while back from a fellow CGN 'er. He said that after firing just #### (rotate) the gun slightly left or right at your wrist depending on what hand you are as you are ejecting the shell and there is no hangup. I tried it and it works great for me and is a very natural thing to do when shooting field type positions with a little practice I don't even think about it anymore and still have brass retention when I need it..
longbranch*
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Victoria,BC.
Safety mod.
Puddlepointer's pics show exactly how safety should be done. I modified my 7X57 RSI this way. Trick is to file forward edge on angle rather than shorten it or you will see a hole when safety is ON . I'll likely do this again on my .303 No.1.
Geoff
Puddlepointer's pics show exactly how safety should be done. I modified my 7X57 RSI this way. Trick is to file forward edge on angle rather than shorten it or you will see a hole when safety is ON . I'll likely do this again on my .303 No.1.
Geoff
In the late 1970's I bought a #1 in 6m/m Remington and fired enough thousands of rounds to wash the rifling out. Not one case hung up on the safety, ever. In fact as a reloader I wish they would have.
My biggest complaint was the forearm bedding. I would sight the rifle in, and a few weeks later it would be "off". The forearm would warp slightly and change the contact point on the barrel. Now the #1 is a nice gun and a pricey one, but after several tries at carefully sanding the channel to clear the barrel so a dollar bill would slide between them I got P.O.'d and hogged it out about an eighth of an inch. Rifle then proceeded to produce a 2 inch group at 400 yards and stay that way.
My biggest complaint was the forearm bedding. I would sight the rifle in, and a few weeks later it would be "off". The forearm would warp slightly and change the contact point on the barrel. Now the #1 is a nice gun and a pricey one, but after several tries at carefully sanding the channel to clear the barrel so a dollar bill would slide between them I got P.O.'d and hogged it out about an eighth of an inch. Rifle then proceeded to produce a 2 inch group at 400 yards and stay that way.
Pudelpointer
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Lethbridge, Alberta
The forearm is not "bedded" on a #1, it is meant to have pressure at the fore-end. You can float the barrel, but you need to bed the fore-end hanger that comes of the front of the action. If you do that, it is often helpful to drill and tap the front of the hanger for a set screw to provide some barrel pressure, otherwise it usually (not always) goes all to hell. Did you glass bed the hanger on yours? 1/4 MOA sounds like it worked out for you.
BTW DoubleGun, you were right on the money, the safety tab is a ruger factory only part. How fkucinn' stupid is that? You can by the transfer bar/linkage, roll pins, etc., but the one piece that can not be messed up installing you can not get! Yikes.
I don't quite understand the preoccupation with the brass ejection, the point being, it is a single shot, a real shooter only needs one shot. 'ya have to reach up to load it, one swipe of the finger will do it. Scope mtgs I can 't answer to, I've only ever used 6.5-20 leupolds & nikons on my #1's or 1885's. no issues with eye relief with those.
Pudelpointer
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Lethbridge, Alberta
The issue is not so much about hunting situations (though that may be a concern) but what you may run into while hunting. FWIW, I tried increasing the ejection strength on my 375, thinking it may overcome the safety catch. Wrong. Instead, the case flew back, hit the safety and bounced right back into the chamber! So now I had to close the action and eject the shell again. Managed to go 4 for 5 on that first empty
Considering I bought the 375 as a grizz gun (you know, back when I lived in a province where you could hunt them things) I figured that having a case not completely leave the immediate area upon ejection could be a fatal, shall we say... oops. Considering I still hunt in areas that are shared with those big brown long-clawed bastards, I have decided that I require all my ejected brass (from my hunting rifles) to sail clear into last week when I am done with it.
- Location
- Lumby Town!!
Considering I bought the 375 as a grizz gun (you know, back when I lived in a province where you could hunt them things) I figured that having a case not completely leave the immediate area upon ejection could be a fatal, shall we say... oops. Considering I still hunt in areas that are shared with those big brown long-clawed bastards, I have decided that I require all my ejected brass (from my hunting rifles) to sail clear into last week when I am done with it.[/QUOTE]
Yup, my no1 35 whelen is going to be my "fuzz ball" gun and I want that brass gone!! Add the range I can deal with having to pick up a piece or 2
Yup, my no1 35 whelen is going to be my "fuzz ball" gun and I want that brass gone!! Add the range I can deal with having to pick up a piece or 2
Moose Masher
CGN Regular
- Location
- Oak Hammok Manitoba
That's how I feel about it.
A hunting rifle that has an ejector should actually eject brass.
Extract or extract a bit more, I don't get it.
Why not just make the safety like the modified ones pictured?
Moose Masher
CGN Regular
- Location
- Oak Hammok Manitoba
A real hunter understands that things don't always go as planned.
If an ejected shell is actually ejected clear of the rifle, there is no chance of it getting in the way or slipping back into the chamber and no need to swipe it away with your finger when you could be reloading.
Exactly!!!
Any Ruger No.1 that has landed in my hands is still here and will remain here. So, since I have short arms and hate ext rings, I have no problem in cutting about 3/4's of an inch off the butt stock to make the length of pull suit me perfectly. I use a new saw blade on my table saw and haven't messed one up, yet! Touch wood!!!!!!!!!!!!
