Ruger No. 1 - What really grinds my gears...

hifiwasabi

hifiwasabi

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I bought my 1A in .303 new last year from Clay and the gang and love the gun, the cartridge and the way it handles. What I don't like is how the furniture doesn't fit nice and flush with the receiver. I've only put about 100 rounds through it and noticed that there is already a small crack forming at the top of the of the right side of the butt stock, where it meets the receiver. Before attempting any sort of wood working blasphemy on a gun that cost me a number of pesos, I'm going to attempt a refinish on a lightly used H&R 16 gauge that has a funny looking finish on it.

Anyone got experience with the tru-oil kits from MidwayUSA? What chemical strippers work well?

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It seems Ruger's standards aren't what they used to be.
I know it's not in the same league, but I just bought a 10/22 on sale at Cabela's, and if you look at the top of the receiver, you can see clean through the gap between the stock and receiver. They didn't used to be like that.
Cheaper, but more expensive....
 
hifiwasabi said:
... What I don't like is how the furniture doesn't fit nice and flush with the receiver...
Click to expand...

As a professional stock refinisher, my dad always appreciated the extra wood to allow for sanding and sometime more significant repairs. Having said that, they could have beveled that area for sure. Note that my dad loved the #1 and had quite a collection. When he brought a new one home, he would take it out of the box for the first time, remove the stocks, and refinish them, before taking a single shot. That has to tell you something...and on a brand new gun! He really disliked factory stock finishes, of almost all manufacturers.

Sorry about the crack, that's not nice.
 
I've refit those stocks before until everything met perfectly. Looked a lot nicer when done. It was a 1a in 300 win and I added an ebony forend. I regret selling it .
 
Ruger No. 1s always had a oversized fit where wood meets metal. Guess Ruger figures it's better to just make it oversized than to try and fit it and not have it be perfect. (A perfect wood - metal fit is very expensive on such a rifle.) It would add greatly to the cost of a No. 1 to make it perfect.
 
If you sand it down to perfect fit you most likely will need to re blue as well... normally that is what a custom maker would do for a perfect fit..

And then when it is finished there is no room for a re finish in it's future life... if you do refinish I would suggest leaving the wood slightly proud...

you don't need to source refinishing chemicals from the US... Lee Valley stocks Tru Oil, hardware stores stock strippers.
 
Tagged for interest. A No. 1 in 220 Swift appeared at my house today...that happens sometimes.
It's practically unfired, but oy...the condition! Rust spots, not lil freckles either...big nasty ones! A shooter grade No. 1, who'da thunk?
1991 year of manufacture.
And the stock fit is quite proud, might clean up yet.
 
guntech said:
If you sand it down to perfect fit you most likely will need to re blue as well... normally that is what a custom maker would do for a perfect fit..

And then when it is finished there is no room for a re finish in it's future life... if you do refinish I would suggest leaving the wood slightly proud...

you don't need to source refinishing chemicals from the US... Lee Valley stocks Tru Oil, hardware stores stock strippers.
Click to expand...

Lee Valley you say?! I do love that store and all the different styles of planes and tools they have there. How might one go about stabilizing the small crack in the picture shown?
 
Just a point of interest, it was standard among English gunmakers to leave the wood slightly "proud" of the action. This was to allow the stock to be refinished at least once without the wood dropping below the metal. If the wood is flush, or below, then you can count on it having been refinished.

The crack would be from poor bedding and should be fixed. My particular bone of contention with the No.1 is that the quality of the wood has dropped off drastically in recent years. Many of the older rifles had really nice figure in the wood, which seemed appropriate for a rifle of this nature. The best that can be said of recent production is that it's bland and blasé, as in really BLAH!
 
What did Ruger have to say about this?

I would send it to someone for proper bedding and a wood refinish if Ruger won't help.
 
guntech said:
If you sand it down to perfect fit you most likely will need to re blue as well... normally that is what a custom maker would do for a perfect fit..

And then when it is finished there is no room for a re finish in it's future life... if you do refinish I would suggest leaving the wood slightly proud...

you don't need to source refinishing chemicals from the US... Lee Valley stocks Tru Oil, hardware stores stock strippers.
Click to expand...


Good advice: I have refinished many a gunstock in my day and Rugers are infamous for having very proud wood and some models like the .44 Carbines and 10-22's are very blocky. Like Guntech suggested just leave the wood a little proud, better to have a little extra than not.
 
Mount Sweetness said:
Would you use Tru-oil or Tung Oil?
Click to expand...

"Continental Style Stock & Checker Oil" from Dem-Bart. Not sure where you would get it in your neck of the woods but I'm pretty sure there is someone out there who carries their checkering tools. Call Walt at Dem-Bart and he will let you know for sure. Remove the factory finish with a stripper of your choice then wet sand, wet sand, wet sand... with this oil as your wetter. Different techniques if you want open or closed grain. Regardless, it will be difficult not to have a much nicer finish than from the factory.
 
my #1 303 has a blemish in the wood too, but I think its more user created, or something..
it reminds me, I have to grab that rifle back!! its in the gun store.. I was goin to off load it.
 
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