According to cartridge drawings it should work "theoretically", with the 280 Rem being at 0.445" where the 7X57 shoulder is at 0.430", but then you have to factor in the size of the 7X57 chamber being reamed (is it generous - was it cut with a sharp reamer?) and the 280 Rem reamer dimensions. 0.015" isn't much to work with, so the 280 Rem AI would be a better bet. That said, I reamed a 300 Norma Mag chamber with a 300 Win Mag reamer knowing it was touch and go, and had a visible line where the old chmaber had been, but it didn't affect chambering, reloading or shooting.
Ruger no1 7x57
- Thread starter DGY
- Start date
The body will clean up but the neck will not. For some reason unknown to me, the 7x57 uses a slightly larger diameter neck dimension than either the .280 or the 7x64. The fired case will come out with a weird "double shoulder" sort of effect. Functionally it will work just fine, but for somebody as OCD as me it would be aesthetically unacceptable.
I looked at the drawings and I see now. I agree that it will still "work", but I'd rather not have the effect it will create.
You'd need to rechamber it to something like a 7mm Gibbs or 7mm JRS with about a calibre length neck, or something longer like a 7mm STW to clean up the 7X57 neck "problem".
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- Location
- Western Manitoba
I happened to chose to use 150 Partitions with my 7x57 1A - but not sure that is "magic" or a "must" - I have not taken either caribou or sheep, but I have taken both white tail and mule deer that were 200 pounds - carcass hanging, ready to cut up - no head, skinned, etc., and also multiple taken down to half (or less!) that weight. I suspect most suitable bullet weights from Hornady, Speer, Nosler, etc. - 139, 140, 145 grains - would be fine for what you have in mind for it - used to be about what your rifle "likes" best - maybe now-a-days is also about what you can find - bullet, powder, primer ... On my Shooting Chrony, I was always 2,800 fps plus change - with Nosler's Max load of RL-19 and the 150 Partitions - so you should be about there - with your slightly shorter barrel might give up 50 or 60 fps - but actually do not know that, for sure.
Looking at table in Nosler 7 manual - if that 7mm 150 Partition starts at 2,800 fps at muzzle, is 2,600 fps at 100 yards - so even giving up 60 fps with shorter barrel is likely of no consequence - maybe need to get 25 or 30 yards closer to be equivalent?
Looking at table in Nosler 7 manual - if that 7mm 150 Partition starts at 2,800 fps at muzzle, is 2,600 fps at 100 yards - so even giving up 60 fps with shorter barrel is likely of no consequence - maybe need to get 25 or 30 yards closer to be equivalent?
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IMHO, reaming out the original 7x57 chamber to the 280rem is a futile gesture to achieve an extra 100fps. Maybe.
This is a load that comes directly from the Lyman manuals.
49.0 gr W760/ WLR primers/ 139 sp = 2750 fps from a 24'' barrel, generating 39,700 CUP or appx 45,000 psi, which should be safe in pre 98 Mausers.
In a very strong action, such as the Ruger #1, even with short barrels, this pressure can be increased safely to 60,000+ psi at least.
Go onto Google and type in high velocity loads for the 7x57 in a modern action.
You will be very surprised at the results and from my own personal experience, the 280 Rem, which also suffers from restricted loading info, due to some of the weaker actions it was initially chambered in, has a tough time to exceed the performance of the 7x57 in similar rifles, with the same barrel length.
Chasing velocities gets to be a "fools game" if your shots are going to be under 400 meters IMHO.
High velocities can be very impressive, but at what cost and with what results??
OP, stick to your original chambering in that #1 rifle. Is 50fps one way or the other worth the hassle?
This is a load that comes directly from the Lyman manuals.
49.0 gr W760/ WLR primers/ 139 sp = 2750 fps from a 24'' barrel, generating 39,700 CUP or appx 45,000 psi, which should be safe in pre 98 Mausers.
In a very strong action, such as the Ruger #1, even with short barrels, this pressure can be increased safely to 60,000+ psi at least.
Go onto Google and type in high velocity loads for the 7x57 in a modern action.
You will be very surprised at the results and from my own personal experience, the 280 Rem, which also suffers from restricted loading info, due to some of the weaker actions it was initially chambered in, has a tough time to exceed the performance of the 7x57 in similar rifles, with the same barrel length.
Chasing velocities gets to be a "fools game" if your shots are going to be under 400 meters IMHO.
High velocities can be very impressive, but at what cost and with what results??
OP, stick to your original chambering in that #1 rifle. Is 50fps one way or the other worth the hassle?
Yes indeed! I’m not a velocity demon, I like medium velocity with heavier bullets usually! So I will definitely try to find a good bullet( partition, A-frame, accubond, maybe some kind of monolithic bullets in the 150gn range and try out! It would be nice to reach 300m with good trajectory for sheep and especially for caribou! But not at all cost!
My Ruger Number 1 RSI in 7x57 has been one of my favourite deer, bear and elk rifles for many years. I would not recommend going heavier than 160 grains and, in fact, would suggest a 140 grain monometal (TSX/GMX) bullet with a top-end load of H414 (4350 equivalent ball powder) for best velocity and accuracy.
I've killed elk, kudu, deer and black bear with this combination and it leaves nothing to be desired as far as accuracy and penetration are concerned.
If you're going to be shooting past 300 yards, I would suggest just going with the 140 grain load. Monometal bullets penetrate extremely well and allow for higher velocities due to their lower density (compared to a jacketed lead bullet).
140 grain Nosler Partitions also work very well. There is really nothing to be gained by going with a 170 grain bullet, and much to be lost (in terms of velocity and losing your otherwise reasonably flat trajectory).
Another excellent option is to go with a bonded bullet (Hornady Interbond or similar) or with a Swift A-Frame. Stick to 140-150 gr. bullets. Nothing to be gained by going too heavy. (Based on going through-and through on elk and kudu at <350 yard distances with 140 gr TSX)
I've killed elk, kudu, deer and black bear with this combination and it leaves nothing to be desired as far as accuracy and penetration are concerned.
If you're going to be shooting past 300 yards, I would suggest just going with the 140 grain load. Monometal bullets penetrate extremely well and allow for higher velocities due to their lower density (compared to a jacketed lead bullet).
140 grain Nosler Partitions also work very well. There is really nothing to be gained by going with a 170 grain bullet, and much to be lost (in terms of velocity and losing your otherwise reasonably flat trajectory).
Another excellent option is to go with a bonded bullet (Hornady Interbond or similar) or with a Swift A-Frame. Stick to 140-150 gr. bullets. Nothing to be gained by going too heavy. (Based on going through-and through on elk and kudu at <350 yard distances with 140 gr TSX)
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I have been shooting and hunting with the 7x57 for several decades now.
I have never loaded a 175 grain bullet to hunt with. The vast majority of
animals I have shot with the 7x57 have been taken with 140/150 grain bullets,
with a couple using the 160. Most have been Nosler Partitions.
In a 22" barrel, I expect about: [in a modern, strong action] 2950 with 140's,
2850 with 150's and 2750 with 160's. The powder of choice for me? Norma MRP
but Reloder 17 is looking pretty good right now as well. Regards, Dave.
I have never loaded a 175 grain bullet to hunt with. The vast majority of
animals I have shot with the 7x57 have been taken with 140/150 grain bullets,
with a couple using the 160. Most have been Nosler Partitions.
In a 22" barrel, I expect about: [in a modern, strong action] 2950 with 140's,
2850 with 150's and 2750 with 160's. The powder of choice for me? Norma MRP
but Reloder 17 is looking pretty good right now as well. Regards, Dave.
6.5cm, 6.5x55 and a couple of others in that category.
It's a useful powder but hard to come by. If you purchase any, purchase enough so that you have a supply on hand that you can continue to use, after you've developed your initial loads.
A pound at a time is a waste of money/components/time if you can't find anymore.
