Ruger No1a Light Sporter
- Thread starter Griswold
- Start date
I shot a #1A in .270 for years and it was a bit of a love hate/relationship. I liked the compactness and the way it handled. It was very quick to the shoulder and nice to shoot. The tang safety made the gun feel like a sxs shotgun.
It wasn't the most accurate of rifles averaging around 4" for five shots at 100 yards. I overlooked this because it was consistent with the first round from a cold barrel and put the second right on top. The third round usually went 1-1/2" high and rounds 4 and 5 stretched out the groups. I tried assorted handloads but eventually decided it didn't matter because it was a single shot.
I had a few minor issues. The trigger was just okay. With standard rings the scope sits quite far forward. I used extension rings and a scope with a lot of eye relief. The rifle had a lot of sharp edges particularly the lever and on mine the barrel was quite rough. Copper fouling was an issue and it was tough to get clean.
My #1A was sold after a few years and despite the issues I still sometimes regret parting with it.
BTW, be very patient the first time you take the rifle apart for cleaning. It was a little tricky to get back together but after the first few times it wasn't difficult.
It wasn't the most accurate of rifles averaging around 4" for five shots at 100 yards. I overlooked this because it was consistent with the first round from a cold barrel and put the second right on top. The third round usually went 1-1/2" high and rounds 4 and 5 stretched out the groups. I tried assorted handloads but eventually decided it didn't matter because it was a single shot.
I had a few minor issues. The trigger was just okay. With standard rings the scope sits quite far forward. I used extension rings and a scope with a lot of eye relief. The rifle had a lot of sharp edges particularly the lever and on mine the barrel was quite rough. Copper fouling was an issue and it was tough to get clean.
My #1A was sold after a few years and despite the issues I still sometimes regret parting with it.
BTW, be very patient the first time you take the rifle apart for cleaning. It was a little tricky to get back together but after the first few times it wasn't difficult.
I have four No.1's and all were decent shooters on arrival (all were used).However, with a little playing around, they became even more consistent and I have no trouble keeping 5 shots into an inch or better at 100yds with all of them. My .22/250 consistently will put 10 shots into .6 or better shooting 5 shot relays.
That said, some No.1's shoot exactly as Claybuster described and need some tweaking to get consistent accuracy. There are a variety of inexpensive, DIY "tricks" out there that you can find by searching any of the Ruger or Single Shot forums that usually cure a gun that shoots like Claybusters did. Gives you a sense of accomplishment when you dial one in and gives you a good reason to fire off a few more rounds
.
The other issues he mentions (sharp edges, rough bore, copper fouling) are not usually problems with No.1's although Ruger did have a period several years back where they out sourced their barrels and many of these lacked expected quality and had accuracy issues. If you are purchasing an older gun, a search of production years from the serial number will help eliminate that potential problem.
IMO you get a lot of gun in a No.1 - classic styling (many with exceptional wood), very functional design and a gun that is really pleasant to hunt with.
That said, some No.1's shoot exactly as Claybuster described and need some tweaking to get consistent accuracy. There are a variety of inexpensive, DIY "tricks" out there that you can find by searching any of the Ruger or Single Shot forums that usually cure a gun that shoots like Claybusters did. Gives you a sense of accomplishment when you dial one in and gives you a good reason to fire off a few more rounds
.The other issues he mentions (sharp edges, rough bore, copper fouling) are not usually problems with No.1's although Ruger did have a period several years back where they out sourced their barrels and many of these lacked expected quality and had accuracy issues. If you are purchasing an older gun, a search of production years from the serial number will help eliminate that potential problem.
IMO you get a lot of gun in a No.1 - classic styling (many with exceptional wood), very functional design and a gun that is really pleasant to hunt with.
#1's
Some rifles are better "group shooters" out of the box than others. As noted a little bit of simple tuning can make # 1's shoot better groups. All mine will do 1" or less at 100yds, except for the iron sight 458 If their not all touchin and overlappin... I'm >1". I guess it all depends on the purpose you are going to use it for, hunting or target shooting? They can be a tool to teach patience... One shot, one hole in the right place, thats all she wrote....if not this time then maybe next time....whats the rush?... ya gotta be home for something else maybe?
The # 1's are shorter OAL to an equivalent bbl length in a bolt, no need to worry about magazine length which makes it easier to load a bullet to a longer OAL, can have a nasty muzzle blast in the shortest bbls, usually have nice wood, if you re-bbl all that may be required is some ejector work, ambidextrous safety being as it is tang mounted, no cheek piece on the wrong side just takin up air space, balances nicely with a properly sized hunting optic, numerous models and calibres to choose from, even in ..
SS..... if you so choose.
Bought the first one in 1987 , I have six right now, 6mm to 458WM...I like em alot
Some rifles are better "group shooters" out of the box than others. As noted a little bit of simple tuning can make # 1's shoot better groups. All mine will do 1" or less at 100yds, except for the iron sight 458
If their not all touchin and overlappin... I'm >1". I guess it all depends on the purpose you are going to use it for, hunting or target shooting? They can be a tool to teach patience... One shot, one hole in the right place, thats all she wrote....if not this time then maybe next time....whats the rush?... ya gotta be home for something else maybe?The # 1's are shorter OAL to an equivalent bbl length in a bolt, no need to worry about magazine length which makes it easier to load a bullet to a longer OAL, can have a nasty muzzle blast in the shortest bbls, usually have nice wood, if you re-bbl all that may be required is some ejector work, ambidextrous safety being as it is tang mounted, no cheek piece on the wrong side just takin up air space, balances nicely with a properly sized hunting optic, numerous models and calibres to choose from, even in ..
SS..... if you so choose.Bought the first one in 1987 , I have six right now, 6mm to 458WM...I like em alot
son of two-dogs
New member
- Location
- Eastern Manitoba
Ruger #1
I curently own 13 of them ranging from 223rem to 458Lott, and love them all. They all shoot good enough for me (some better then others) I am just starting to get into reloading and haven't played much with loads yet, but I'm sure they will get even better. My favorite one is my 7x57 AB (4th from the left) it's so short, light and quick handling. I think you will happy with the #1A 270, If not I might be
I curently own 13 of them ranging from 223rem to 458Lott, and love them all. They all shoot good enough for me (some better then others) I am just starting to get into reloading and haven't played much with loads yet, but I'm sure they will get even better. My favorite one is my 7x57 AB (4th from the left) it's so short, light and quick handling. I think you will happy with the #1A 270, If not I might be
Wow! Two Dogs! Nice collection! I have had a few No.1s over the years and all of them have been good to excellent shooters. The best was a 1V in 22-250 that shot the yellow box Remington stuff into about a half inch consistently at 100 yards. I would buy with confidence on just about any Ruger No1!
I don't disagree. You do get all of that and it is pleasant to hunt with. It is also a Ruger and despite some excellent designs their execution sometimes leaves a little to be desired.
My choice to part with mine was not because I couldn't live with its foibles but because other things caught my attention. I knew about the various fixes but never bothered because it was a single shot.
From a pure ### aspect the #1 with the Henry forend is about as hot looking a rifle as you can buy for the price. I've been tempted several times by a #1S in .45-70 but would probably go with a scout scope with extra eye relief. It would be a dandy brush rifle.
I have had several #1A's. They are cute little rifles, but I don't keep them as they are too muzzle light for me. If they had a slightly heavier 24" barrel I would still own them.
Their trigger is workable; their accuracy usually so. I wish the scope mounted a bit farther to the rear on them; I don't much like the look of extension rings. An older Leupold 4X works well.
Their trigger is workable; their accuracy usually so. I wish the scope mounted a bit farther to the rear on them; I don't much like the look of extension rings. An older Leupold 4X works well.
I don't have a #1A but I do have a #1V in .22-250 and a #1B in .270 Winchester. I bought the #1V used about seven or eight years ago. RIght from the get go it consistently shot about 5/8" at 100 yards over the next four years I proceeded to wear out the barrel.
I got an unused factory takeoff barrel to replace it and this one shoots no worse than 5/8" and often considerably better. I should mention that this rifle has one of the older adjustable triggers (1978 production I believe) and I got it down to about 3 lbs maybe a hair less.
I also had the forend drilled and tapped for a set screw and it is otherwise free floated. This wasn't to improve accuracy, it didn't really, but it did make it perform much better when I was shooting at Listowel and putting ridiculous amounts of heat to the barrel by firing 50 rounds in half an hour. I had very little POI shift.
The .270 is a newer 1990s production rifle. The action doesn't have the smoothness of the older one but it also hasn't been used nearly as much. The trigger is heavier and that is a design difference. Jard finally makes a reasonably priced improvement I might try. Having said that this rifle still shoots 3/4" regularly and I have used it to take deer from 40 yards to just a hair short of 400.
My advice would be to buy one made in the 90s or later because that was when Ruger began making its own barrels. Once barrels were being made by Ruger the accuracy was generally improved and much more consistent.
I like them both enough that I will buy a #1A in .30-06 or a #1S in .45/70 when I find the right deal.
I got an unused factory takeoff barrel to replace it and this one shoots no worse than 5/8" and often considerably better. I should mention that this rifle has one of the older adjustable triggers (1978 production I believe) and I got it down to about 3 lbs maybe a hair less.
I also had the forend drilled and tapped for a set screw and it is otherwise free floated. This wasn't to improve accuracy, it didn't really, but it did make it perform much better when I was shooting at Listowel and putting ridiculous amounts of heat to the barrel by firing 50 rounds in half an hour. I had very little POI shift.
The .270 is a newer 1990s production rifle. The action doesn't have the smoothness of the older one but it also hasn't been used nearly as much. The trigger is heavier and that is a design difference. Jard finally makes a reasonably priced improvement I might try. Having said that this rifle still shoots 3/4" regularly and I have used it to take deer from 40 yards to just a hair short of 400.
My advice would be to buy one made in the 90s or later because that was when Ruger began making its own barrels. Once barrels were being made by Ruger the accuracy was generally improved and much more consistent.
I like them both enough that I will buy a #1A in .30-06 or a #1S in .45/70 when I find the right deal.
My wife says sell some of those rifles & buy a new couch. "All wrong with that colour of wall!" I'll be a pal & help you out... What da ya say, a couple of hundred a piece & I'll take five of em off your hands? That should get you a new fart sack that matches that pad....
- Location
- Ft. Mac. Alberta
I've forgotten how many I have owned over the years, and a couple were in 270.
Every one would shoot with some tinkering, some without.
Most that I kept for any length of time got sent to Rangesports Unlimited to get re- barrel into real tack drivers!
Many got Kipplinger or Canjar set triggers installed , Wold springs, etc.
I love No.1's!
Cat
Every one would shoot with some tinkering, some without.
Most that I kept for any length of time got sent to Rangesports Unlimited to get re- barrel into real tack drivers!
Many got Kipplinger or Canjar set triggers installed , Wold springs, etc.
I love No.1's!
Cat
My wife says sell some of those rifles & buy a new couch. "All wrong with that colour of wall!" I'll be a pal & help you out... What da ya say, a couple of hundred a piece & I'll take five of em off your hands? That should get you a new fart sack that matches that pad....
just moved in, couch is from the old place...... I keep telling him to get the paint out and grab a roller......... you'll have to up your offer, I offered 3 hundred each.......
Moose Masher
CGN Regular
- Location
- Oak Hammok Manitoba
Do ejected cases stop against the safety tab when in the fire position?
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My #1B tends to have the ejected case hit the safety and stop. Personally, this suits me fine since I'm a handloader and want to keep my brass. When hunting, a quick tip to the side clears the way for reloading. On my #1V I've backed out the ejector spring tension screw so that empties are just barely ejected.
Having said that, if I owned, say, a #1H in some kind of an African hunting cartridge I'd likely make sure that the ejected rounds cleared the safety every time.
Having said that, if I owned, say, a #1H in some kind of an African hunting cartridge I'd likely make sure that the ejected rounds cleared the safety every time.
