Ruger Old Army spares?

tacfoley

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
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Dear All - many of us here on this forum have one of these revolvers, thought by many to have been the epitome of non-replica BP revolvers since their introduction in the middle-1870's, and bought and acclaimed whereever fun shooting happens world-wide.

Even here in UK.

Since the cartridge-firing handgun ban here in mainland UK back in 1997, hundreds, maybe even thousands, of these great handguns have been bought and enjoyed by shooters still keen to take what they can get in terms of handgun shooting experience.

I bought mine back in 1986 - serial 145-52052, in case anybody wants to know.

It worked just fine until yesterday, when, at a guest day, another club member shooting it while I RO'd had occasion to remove the cylinder to clear a piece of cap, and mis-assembled it. On the subsequent attempt to reload, the base pin was not secured in the frame, and as a result, was not fully home when he tried to ram a tight-fitting ball.

It got bent.

Badly.

Last night I sent an email to Sturm, Ruger Inc, and also copied it to our UK importers - Viking Arms. Now I have to tell you that the people at Viking Arms are renowned for being both courteous and helpful, never more so than with their dealings with the general shooting public who buy their Ruger products from the dealerships that they supply. So it came as no surprise to find an email waiting for me this morning when I opened up shop.

What WAS a surprise was that the the email told me in no uncertain terms that there were NO stainless steel base pins to be had from Ruger.

Last year, Ruger sent me [via Viking Arms] two rear frame securing screws - the little ones that go either side of the hammer - advising me as they did that they were the only FOUR of these little screws in existence, and asked if I wanted them all. I got them all - and if anybody has a need for the other two, just call me. BTW, they are black, NOT stainless - there are NO stainless
ones in existence.

My points to this ramble are simple -

1. What happened to Sturm, Ruger's company promise to support out of production firearms for ten years after cessation?

2. How come that spares for what must be one of the most popular BP handguns EVER made are almost non-existant, or in some cases totally non-existant?

3. Critics noted that sales had fallen off over the last couple of years - well, hello critics - barring ham-fisted operators, these guns, built like the Brooklyn Bridge, just do not wear out [much], and how many of them do you want anyhow?

Since I've already mentioned the Brooklyn Bridge, let's keep my comments in the area, so to speak. To Sturm, Ruger Inc., I send a large Bronx Cheer.

tac - V. disappointed
 
wouldn't most of the screws etc except for the unique parts share a commonality with the blackhawk- i can see the base pin and front loading parts being unique, but aside from the front loading bits , cylinder, and hammer, ( unless you have the old style hammer) she's all blackhawk- and any GOOD machine shop should be able to turn you a base pin
and it's 1970's not 1870s- i have a 74 issue;
your friends over at numrich sould also be able to help - the ONLY stickler might be getting the stainless version
 
I would think that if you wanted a stainless pin, a local machine shop or friend with a metal lathe could make one fairly easily. I would also suspect that with heat and judgement, the bent pin could be straightened unless it was further damaged while being removed from the gun.
I think relative to Ruger the company, there comes a point where it just does not make good financial sense to continue stocking parts for discontinued models. On the other hand, in this day of computer driven lathes, I would think that for models with computer stored dimensions, instead of storing parts, it would pay to have one machine dedicated to special requests and cranking out requested spare parts. It would definitely save the expense of massive inventory of parts which were rarely sold.

cheers mooncoon
 
The U. K. is renowned for it's miniature model engineering clubs. Visit one of their gatherings in your area and I'd bet you will be fixed up in no time. They do some incredible precise work and your part would be a piece of cake to build for most of them. Good Luck
 
The U. K. is renowned for it's miniature model engineering clubs. Visit one of their gatherings in your area and I'd bet you will be fixed up in no time. They do some incredible precise work and your part would be a piece of cake to build for most of them. Good Luck

Yup, I'm one of them - see my 100+ videos on Youtube under tacs trains - but I was concerned that there was a heat-treatment that I cannot see or duplicate.

tac
 
Dear All - many of us here on this forum have one of these revolvers, thought by many to have been the epitome of non-replica BP revolvers since their introduction in the middle-1870's, and bought and acclaimed whereever fun shooting happens world-wide.

Even here in UK.

Since the cartridge-firing handgun ban here in mainland UK back in 1997, hundreds, maybe even thousands, of these great handguns have been bought and enjoyed by shooters still keen to take what they can get in terms of handgun shooting experience.

I bought mine back in 1986 - serial 145-52052, in case anybody wants to know.

It worked just fine until yesterday, when, at a guest day, another club member shooting it while I RO'd had occasion to remove the cylinder to clear a piece of cap, and mis-assembled it. On the subsequent attempt to reload, the base pin was not secured in the frame, and as a result, was not fully home when he tried to ram a tight-fitting ball.

It got bent.

Badly.

Last night I sent an email to Sturm, Ruger Inc, and also copied it to our UK importers - Viking Arms. Now I have to tell you that the people at Viking Arms are renowned for being both courteous and helpful, never more so than with their dealings with the general shooting public who buy their Ruger products from the dealerships that they supply. So it came as no surprise to find an email waiting for me this morning when I opened up shop.

What WAS a surprise was that the the email told me in no uncertain terms that there were NO stainless steel base pins to be had from Ruger.

Last year, Ruger sent me [via Viking Arms] two rear frame securing screws - the little ones that go either side of the hammer - advising me as they did that they were the only FOUR of these little screws in existence, and asked if I wanted them all. I got them all - and if anybody has a need for the other two, just call me. BTW, they are black, NOT stainless - there are NO stainless
ones in existence.

My points to this ramble are simple -

1. What happened to Sturm, Ruger's company promise to support out of production firearms for ten years after cessation?

2. How come that spares for what must be one of the most popular BP handguns EVER made are almost non-existant, or in some cases totally non-existant?

3. Critics noted that sales had fallen off over the last couple of years - well, hello critics - barring ham-fisted operators, these guns, built like the Brooklyn Bridge, just do not wear out [much], and how many of them do you want anyhow?

Since I've already mentioned the Brooklyn Bridge, let's keep my comments in the area, so to speak. To Sturm, Ruger Inc., I send a large Bronx Cheer.

tac - V. disappointed

have you tryed contacting location snap shots 450-427-0052 they might have something kicking around
 
Thank you, Sir - for that information. I've also made contact with a company in Montana who make base pins for most revolvers, including the ROA cartridge conversion, and we'll see where we go from there.

Best

tac
 
i pulled my o/a out of the safe yesterdayand TRIED to do as you described- unless the takedown screw isn't closed, i found it physically IMPOSSIBLE- the base pin uses a half round notch which lines up with the back part of the take down screw and LOCKS the bottom part of the base pin in the frame- unless yours is different from mine-
and your contact information for ruger repair in canada is
snapshots@videotron.ca, attn carole petrie- they're super nice to deal with, but kill you on shipping
 
i pulled my o/a out of the safe yesterdayand TRIED to do as you described- unless the takedown screw isn't closed, i found it physically IMPOSSIBLE- the base pin uses a half round notch which lines up with the back part of the take down screw and LOCKS the bottom part of the base pin in the frame- unless yours is different from mine-
and your contact information for ruger repair in canada is
snapshots@videotron.ca, attn carole petrie- they're super nice to deal with, but kill you on shipping

The guy had borrowed my ROA to demonstrate the duties of a BP range officer to a group of RCOs under instruction and had dismantled my revolver to show how to clear a dry-ball load. He then loaded for real and had forgotten to rotate the take-down screw to the closed position. Applying pressure to load the ball pushed out the basepin and voila! A bent base-pin.

This is the very first time that anything damaging has happened to ANY of my guns and I'm seriously p!ssed.

The guy responsible was quite apologetic.....

tac
 
Mine got bent too! For the exact same reason.

I used a hammer and gently fixed the bend. It works perfect now.

I found a place for new cylinders if people are interested. About 230 delivered.
 
ok, now i can see it - i've NEVER loaded anything but 200 grain swcs ( same bullet as i use in the 45acp) and never had occasion to have clear a cylinder- i have a set of pointed needle nose pliers and an easy-out worm that will pull my bullets out for me- it looks like a minature version of the rifle worm- at worse, i dismount the cylinder and drill into the bullet part way with a press at slow speed -i've also people remove the nipple and come at it from that way-there's really no need to dismount the cylinder
 
Sir - I salute you! Never having had a dry ball you must be in a very select group of BP shooters. However, regardless of how smart you can be in Canada, and never dry-ball a BP firearm unlike the rest of us humans, here in UK the rule is that - IF you do - pointing the gun downrange -

1. The percussion cap - if it has been fitted - must be removed from the nipple, which is then, if possible, removed from the cylinder.

2. The cylinder must be removed from the frame.

3. If it was not possilbe before because of the design of the gun, then the nipple must be removed at this point.

4. The charge or even the lack of charge must be spoiled with oil or water.

5. The ball must be pushed out with a drift through the nipple locating hole.

6. Only then are you permitted to re-asssemble the gun and continue.

tac
 
for ruger repair in canada is
snapshots@videotron.ca, attn carole petrie- they're super nice to deal with, but kill you on shipping

Sir - I contacted them as you recommended, and got a near-instant reply - $24.95 in Ontario.

Can't get better service than that. :D

It will go to one of my cousins and he/she can ship it to me. Annoyingly, we have only been back here in UK less than two weeks from attending my Aunt's memorial service in Codrington. :mad:

Anyhow, looks like I lucked in, thanks to you!

A virtual 'Blue' for you, Sir!! Thk

tac
 
Sir - I salute you! Never having had a dry ball you must be in a very select group of BP shooters. However, regardless of how smart you can be in Canada, and never dry-ball a BP firearm unlike the rest of us humans, here in UK the rule is that - IF you do - pointing the gun downrange -

1. The percussion cap - if it has been fitted - must be removed from the nipple, which is then, if possible, removed from the cylinder.

2. The cylinder must be removed from the frame.

3. If it was not possilbe before because of the design of the gun, then the nipple must be removed at this point.

4. The charge or even the lack of charge must be spoiled with oil or water.

5. The ball must be pushed out with a drift through the nipple locating hole.

6. Only then are you permitted to re-asssemble the gun and continue.

tac

- some of that GARBAGE Are the most UNREASONABLE MEASURES i've ever heard of-given your situation, i would order AT LEAST 2 pins from snapshots; and keep one as a spare in my "possibles' bag- nos 4 leaves you with a fouled chamber , and 5 is just plain stupid - there are times when your ball won't move and you're bearing down on it with a small diameter rod is only going to punch a hole through the ball- it must have been kim campbell( never trust a campbell- which ought to tell you of my ancestry) or alan rock that dreamed up that bunch of rules
i wonder how those "rules " would apply with our black powder enthusiasts over here where common sense prevails
one of the reasons i've NEVER had a dry ball is that i charge and ball each chamber seperately, then cap it- there is NO other way- about 99 % of the so -called mishaps ( read "accidents" are from people who add " VARIATIONS" TO THE PROCEDURE "
 
Sir - I contacted them as you recommended, and got a near-instant reply - $24.95 in Ontario.

Can't get better service than that. :D

It will go to one of my cousins and he/she can ship it to me. Annoyingly, we have only been back here in UK less than two weeks from attending my Aunt's memorial service in Codrington. :mad:

Anyhow, looks like I lucked in, thanks to you!

A virtual 'Blue' for you, Sir!! Thk

tac

well, they ARE in MONTREAL- and that's DOWNRIVER- maybe you could trade some beef wellington for poutine
 
one of the reasons i've NEVER had a dry ball is that i charge and ball each chamber seperately, then cap it- there is NO other way- about 99 % of the so -called mishaps ( read "accidents" are from people who add " VARIATIONS" TO THE PROCEDURE "

Me, too, since I began shooting BP hangdun shooting in the late 1960's....

I don't make the rules here in Europe- I just have to abide by them, like every other RCO running a range under the auspices of the NRA and Health & Safety. These rules, after all, are designed as far as possible to safeguard against sheer stupidity and as we all know, THAT has no limits.

I'll agree that it's difficult to dry-ball a revolver, but noobs are noobs and can get flustered. Not being perfect, I always keep a co2 ball blower in my range box, just in case somebody dry-balls a long arm...something I've never yet done, but just might do in the future as I get older.

Best

tac

PS - what is this company actually called? I'd sure like to give them a call.
 
Hmmm. Very odd - just received another email advising me that they have no stock.

I wonder what changed their minds?

Maybe I'm not Canadian enough? Qui sait?

tac, Half Canadian/Half Irish/Half wit
 
me too...

When mine bent I took it to a 1/2 machinest friend.

He fixed it in minutes.
He used a lead block, just made for the purpose of jobs like this.
The right hammer
Hand skills

Dence hardwood would work too, in place of lead:

He fixed it in minutes.
Straight by eye anyway.
He said if I wanted it perfect would need a dial caliper. Which we did not have on hand.

No need anyway.
This part does not move.
Not exactly a race car crankshaft:rolleyes:
 
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