Ruger P345 Range Report

Ganderite

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I make a number of different loads for each caliber of gun I shoot. When I get a new gun, I try a bunch of previously good loads to see if one of then really shines in the new gun.

Today I was trying a new (to me) Ruger P345 (looks like a Ruger clone of a Sig 220). None of the loads I brought shot well. None were Good; they scored Fair or Poor. They looked like this (2 hand hold, 20 yards):

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I moved on to shooting a new Smith Mod 10 and immediately found a load that grouped perfectly. As I was rummaging around in the range bag I found another box of 45ACP that had been there for a year (200 SWC over 6 gr of medium speed non-canister powder.) I gave the Ruger one more chance and Eureka! It grouped as well as I could expect. Life is good!

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It has been my experience that if I take a given bullet and load it from Start load (or even less) all the way to Max, in 0.3 gr increments, one of the loads is usually much better than the others. You don’t know just how good your gun can be unless you try a bit more or less powder.

The Ruger is fairly slim. It uses a Colt 1911 magazine with the mag release notch in a different place. It is easy to cut a new notch on 1911 mags to make extra Ruger mags. The modified mags will work equally well in either gun.

The P345 reminds me of a Sig 220. Slim, light frame, single stack. The SIG has slightly better sights and trigger. The Sig and Ruger are similar in shape (they can share the same holster). Sig is slightly longer. You can barely see it here under the Ruger.

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I have Williams Fire Sights on order for the Ruger. The factory sights would have been good enough, except they shoot 3” low, so I am hoping that with extra sights to swap around I can find a combo that shoots higher. If that does not work, I can always file the Ruger front sight shorter.

I think all the P345s come with a mag disconnect. This is a bummer for most of the shooting sports where you dry fire before holstering. When I got the gun I discovered it lacked the disconnect. The trigger was quite crisp, at about 6 pounds. I clipped 3 coils off the hammer spring and found the double action much better and the single action weight dropped to a nice 5 pounds.

I don’t like guns that I cannot make shoot accurately. The Ruger is now a trusted member of the family. I look forward to trying it in a CQB match.
 
I had a 345 for years. While I initially had problems with it, I eventually got it well. I never heard of any without the magazine safety. Did the previous owner somehow remove it?
 
Few questions for you. Was your target properly supported with a hard backerboard (cardboard)? I noticed some clean punched holes and some keyholes. These keyholes are sometimes caused by improper overall length of the bullet. A load might be good for a Glock. But when used on a 1911, your overall length might vary. Since you are reloading, drop a loaded round into the P345 barrel and make sure it sits flush against the chamber with the bullet barely touching the rifling before you do the crimp. A short OAL might cause over pressure and might result into keyholes. This happened to me while I was just started to reload. With my CZ 85C, as I shortened the OAL by a mere 1 mm, accuracy went down the drain.

Safe shooting!
 
The targets just hang in space. No backer. The big group was shot with a very mild load, less than the Start Load, so the reult is raggedy torn holes. The nice round holes were shot with a load much hotter. Velocity was about 80% of max. At higher velocity the SWC cuts nice holes.

The mild load is the most accurate load in most of my 45's. But I have a few 45s that do much better with a hotter load. That is why I test a new gun with a variety of loads.
 
I had a 345 for years. While I initially had problems with it, I eventually got it well. I never heard of any without the magazine safety. Did the previous owner somehow remove it?

It has been removed. Not sure who did it. It is the easiest of all guns to remove the mag disconnect.

Slide the rear sight off. You will see two spring loaded vertical pins under there. The forward one is the disconnect. Just take it out and you are done.

I am told that removing it also improves the trigger. I can't compare, but this trigger is nice.
 
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