Rust bluing
- Thread starter 9.3mauser
- Start date
Rust bluing does not need a bit of bite no bluing does it is a chemical reaction not a coating pricing is as said 275-350
double bbl 400 ish
complete bolt action 400-500$
prices my vary from place to place but above prices are a good guide line
double bbl 400 ish
complete bolt action 400-500$
prices my vary from place to place but above prices are a good guide line
The bluing I have goes on differently for a high polish compared to say a 400 grit. (Blue bottle white cap, can’t think of brand off top of my head)
For some reason it just kind of sits on the metal, whereas coarser grits seem to turn blue quicker.
For some reason it just kind of sits on the metal, whereas coarser grits seem to turn blue quicker.
The reason I asked was I had a quote that I thought was completely out to lunch, and judging by the responses, it really was.
So now I'm looking for ways to do it myself. Is there anywhere in Canada that supplies the chemicals required?
I sent an email off to PJ's about their express rust blue, but I haven't gotten a reply.
So now I'm looking for ways to do it myself. Is there anywhere in Canada that supplies the chemicals required?
I sent an email off to PJ's about their express rust blue, but I haven't gotten a reply.
The rust express bluing is good stuff. I think if I remember t correctly her husband died and his wife is running the show alone so it may be slow responses sometimes. But it's worth getting that stuff.
At least one commonly used rust blue solution provider (https://www.rustblue.com/) says to add a little everclear/pure ethanol to the bit of rust blue you are about to use on polished or even regularly sanded steel surface to act as a surfectant(?)/wetting agent.
- Location
- Tumbler Ridge, BC
Pjs is good stuff and she’s a really sweet lady. Really glad she’s kept things going since he passed.
All rust bluing is simply the process of converting red rust (ferric oxide) into black oxide (ferrosoferric oxide/magnetite) AKA "heat" or rather boiling/steaming.
All "rust bluing" solutions are simply different types of acid that accelerate the rusting process - I use muriatic acid ... rusting your part using (acid) fumes will give the best results
The real trick is "controlling the rusting process" - keeping the oxidation even over an entire part can be tricky.
As to "bite" - well that is probably the wrong word - highly polished surfaces will rust .. just much slower than a surface with a scratch pattern. On a highly polished surface if you use a (home brew) wipe on solution it will generally bead and rust unevenly - that is why things like alcohol are added, low surface tension fast evaporation. and peroxide, a strong oxidizer allows the rusting process to start with less humid conditions.
There are no magic solutions or exotic chemicals needed (though I've used PJs and it does work very well) everything you need is at Canadian Tire.
Frankly, all you have to do is convince your part to rust - the rest is in your prep and process.
All "rust bluing" solutions are simply different types of acid that accelerate the rusting process - I use muriatic acid ... rusting your part using (acid) fumes will give the best results
The real trick is "controlling the rusting process" - keeping the oxidation even over an entire part can be tricky.
As to "bite" - well that is probably the wrong word - highly polished surfaces will rust .. just much slower than a surface with a scratch pattern. On a highly polished surface if you use a (home brew) wipe on solution it will generally bead and rust unevenly - that is why things like alcohol are added, low surface tension fast evaporation. and peroxide, a strong oxidizer allows the rusting process to start with less humid conditions.
There are no magic solutions or exotic chemicals needed (though I've used PJs and it does work very well) everything you need is at Canadian Tire.
Frankly, all you have to do is convince your part to rust - the rest is in your prep and process.
For anybody really interested in firearm surface treatments the old ways and all the various toxic and non-toxic formulae that resulted in different types of finish, I highly recommend "Firearm Blueing and Browning" by R. H. Angier. Otherwise, Backyard Ballistics YouTube channel has excellent videos exploring modern equivalents of these classic formulae for use today, and Mark Novak's Anvil Gunsmithing channel has the applications the proper way as well.
Oscar Long has a little book out as of last year .RUST BLUING in the 21st Century.
It details some of his techniques and modern available components for rust solutions. Google Ribstone gunsmithing.
Or I think his handle on gunnutz is Scar270
It details some of his techniques and modern available components for rust solutions. Google Ribstone gunsmithing.
Or I think his handle on gunnutz is Scar270
I accidentally found that an U.S. cleaner, with the heat cranked does a quite nice job of rust bluing. Depending on how big your US cleaner is, you may be able to do it yourself.
NZClaybuster
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Calgary, Alberta
Try Oscar at Ribstone Gunsmithing
I finally got in touch with Joan at PJ's, so I'll have some of the express rust blue on its way to me shortly. I'll be doing this outside, so it'll have to warm up a bit before I make an attempt. Still a bit too chilly here. If it turns out ok I'll post pics of the results in my .30/06 thread.
