Rust removal? M-8 Aircraft Flare Gun

kodiakjack

kodiakjack

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Folks, I’ve got an M-8 I’ve been meaning to tidy up for years now, and never get around to it. Anybody got some resources on how to clean it up? It’s got a little surface rust on the outside, and the bore is particularly rough. I’m guessing the old flares used corrosive components. I’m not looking for a perfect restoration, just enough to make it look better on display.

Thanks!
 
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kodiakjack said:
Folks, I’ve got an M-8 I’ve been meaning to tidy up for years now, and never get around to it. Anybody got some resources on how to clean it up? It’s got a little surface rust on the outside, and the bore is particularly rough. I’m guessing the old flares used corrosive components. I’m not looking for a perfect restoration, just enough to make it look better on display.

Thanks!
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Copper or steel wool and plenty of ordinary oil for the bore. The edges of the 'wool will cut the rust, and the oil will wash it off. That crustiness almost begs for an industrial approach. The exterior polished surfaces can be tidied up as you might clean any fine firearm. I would most definitely not recommend a wire wheel, sandpaper or Evaporust. Further generations will thank you.
 
maple_leaf_eh said:
Copper or steel wool and plenty of ordinary oil for the bore. The edges of the 'wool will cut the rust, and the oil will wash it off. That crustiness almost begs for an industrial approach. The exterior polished surfaces can be tidied up as you might clean any fine firearm. I would most definitely not recommend a wire wheel, sandpaper or Evaporust. Further generations will thank you.
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I am curious why you advise against evaporust?
 
Internally on the barrel I would use a pad of fine steel wool on a suitable short rod, oil it well and spin it with a hand drill. If the result shows pitting you will need the services of a gunsmith or perhaps a talented machinist to fine bore and polish it to a perfect chrome like finish.
Externally, lots of elbow grease with extra fine steel wool (###xx), well oiled, will remove the rust slowly without damage although if any of the rust is severe it will leave pitting. Do not use any power tools unless you are trying to buff out light pitting and then you must be very cautious, it's very easy to cause noticeable damage. Final polish with Flitz metal polish for a gloss finish suitable for blueing although this would likely be a finer finish than as manufactured.
 
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grumpyguy said:
Here’s a method I’ve used in the past but use at your own risk. Will damage black oxide finishes.

https://bmxmuseum.com/forums/viewtopic.php?id=351132
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Fascinating. Although I find one sentence hidden in there a little worrying: “ You can use OA on bare steel but it will flash rust.”...

I don’t know much about the original finishes on the M-8s, so I think I’ll avoid the OA bath.


However! I’ll be restoring a 1970 Honda Trail 70 over the winter, and that looks like an invaluable process I wouldn’t have otherwise stumbled across, so thank you!
 
It appears that über duper light steel wool and oil is the way to go. As for oil, any preferences to type/brand?

While the bore does need the most love, I’m mostly just interested in stopping any further deterioration. I won’t be firing it of course, it’ll just be on display, so the exterior is my greatest concern.

In fact, I suppose with a 40mm bore, it would draw a furled eyebrow from Mr. Trudeau’s OIC, so it’s not likely to be on display where anyone but me can view it anyway. Nevertheless, it would be nice to pretty it up a bit.
 
I’ve found that rust cure 3000 (sold in a spray can from crappy tire) melts light surface rust pretty well. Spray it on and let it sit for a few days. Less work needed with an abrasive.
 
new210/22 said:
I am curious why you advise against evaporust?
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Evaporust works great on Youtube videos and goes well with Nutella, but its chemical action is strong enough that IMHO it is unsuitable for firearms. (Bear with me, I have an Arts degree not a Chemistry degree.) Evaporust's action neutralized the oxides, and turns them black, or they fall off. There is magic happening under the surface that looks dramatic when applied to a shovel or cast iron milk separator. But, I don't trust the migration to leave enough strength in gun parts.

There are two alternatives used in the hot rod and vehicle restoration hobby. First is a chemical soak in molasses. But it is incredibly sticky stuff that is guaranteed to seep out of any pin holes or tears. A friend of mine built a kiddy pool sized bath to soak his rusted and seized BREN Gun Carrier tracks. The tub leaked and he had an inch of frozen molasses all over his shop floor! The second is reverse electrolysis that uses 12v DC current to "pop" oxides off steel parts. There is no chemical change.
 
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Take gun apart and boil all rusty parts in distilled water for an hour or more. Card off the new black oxide with denim. Repeat if needed. Heavily oil when done. This will preserve any existing finish.
 
Smcx said:
I’ve found that rust cure 3000 (sold in a spray can from crappy tire) melts light surface rust pretty well. Spray it on and let it sit for a few days. Less work needed with an abrasive.
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I love this stuff for corrosion control on vehicles as it stops corrosion in its' tracks & is great for preventing further rusting or corrosion on electrical connections and between unions of dissimilar metals. The stuff does soften light rust, but does not remove it.

The flair gun in question would be rust free in a day sitting in a bath of Krud-Kutter and need just a good, warm air drying from a small, fan driven ceramic heater
before before doing final finish work to smooth the metal to desired spec. After that, I'd coat the internals of the bugger with the Formula 3000 to preserve 'er nice.
https://www.tenaquip.com/product/kr...MIl8u9982F7AIV3h6tBh1msAmBEAYYASABEgLoI_D_BwE
 
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The collector tool guys like simple green cleaner for tools, most are cast iron, and tooth brushes, seems to help on light rust, and will not hurt the steel/ iron.
Some times you will find a nice old Stanley plane that has been soaked in vinegar, or evrorust to derust. No true collector will look at that plane.
The out side, I don't think you want it shinny, the bore, that will take some work, a small round wire brush, sandpaper on a large dowel , or maybe a 3M pad on a stick, , end turned down to fit in a drill
Cut a slot in the outer end to slide the pads or sand / emery paper into.
If you had a brakehone, that would work great
 
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