Rust resisting a hunting rifle - CZ 557

Another vote for G96. Lay it on thick and let it soak, then wipe off. You’ll be surprised how much red will be on the cloth, or if you’re like me paper towel. Matt finishes are bad for that. After that a light wipe every so often to prevent the rust from reoccurring is enough.

If you are seeing discolouration on your metal already or it seems dull, Iosso gun brite will take care of that. That stuff will pull rust off of things that you didn’t think even had rust. It’s a very mild abrasive so don’t do it everyday but it’ll put a shine on guns rhat have been neglected, or used hard. It can’t put blueing on that is gone obviously, but sometimes it feels like it.
 
Thanks for all the gun oil suggestions, I will pick up those I can find locally and experiment. I have just been using Hoppes up until now.

Some gun oils solidify and gum up badly, that's why I suggested and use exclusively Ballistol, which IMHO is the best gun oil period.
BTW I use Ballistol for over 50 years.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DGY
Ballistol is great, but it also has issues.

When it's allowed to become very dry, it leaves a hard surface film that is relatively easy to remove. In between the application point and the hardening, it can become sticky, especially on bolts in cold weather. It also attracts crud.

It's fine for milsurps, and leather, but beware, when it's applied to leather, the leather becomes much darker.

I'm not knocking it at all or suggesting you shouldn't use it. There are better applicants for the purpose made today.

G96 is fine, as long as it isn't slathered or sprayed on and manages to get into the bedding. This is a problem, because often the rust folks are concerned about are below the stock line.
 
Ballistol is great, but it also has issues.

When it's allowed to become very dry, it leaves a hard surface film that is relatively easy to remove. In between the application point and the hardening, it can become sticky, especially on bolts in cold weather. It also attracts crud.

It's fine for milsurps, and leather, but beware, when it's applied to leather, the leather becomes much darker.

I'm not knocking it at all or suggesting you shouldn't use it. There are better applicants for the purpose made today.

G96 is fine, as long as it isn't slathered or sprayed on and manages to get into the bedding. This is a problem, because often the rust folks are concerned about are below the stock line.

!!! NEVER !!! happened in over 50 years of use
 
  • Like
Reactions: DGY
Ballistol is a jack of all trade, master of none . It will give some protection from rust, lubricate and remove fouling but there are better products out there.
 
It’s always useful when people say that a product is ok but there is better now a day but don’t give exemple…. Useless!
 
For cleaning and rust prevention I use good old fashioned ATF.
If I purchase an old gun that has gotten rusty from neglect and needs a serious cleaning, I use (again) ATF and acetone mixed 50/50. Has always worked good for me.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DGY
I did give an example, Sheath, now called Barricade, made by Birchwood Casey
True so maybe it wasn’t pointed at you. Oh and never had an issue with Balistol, none of my firearms are SS and I hunt in all kind of weather with them, no rust problems. If you take care of your stuff you can use what ever oil you want really. The main problem is people put too much on, less is better in this situation!!
 
It’s always useful when people say that a product is ok but there is better now a day but don’t give exemple…. Useless!
I got better results with Hoppes no 9 oil than ballistol, for rust prevention. Hoppes solvent cleans a barrel faster than ballistol. I still use ballistol because it's non toxic. I just have to reapply it more frequently.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DGY
I got better results with Hoppes no 9 oil than ballistol, for rust prevention. Hoppes solvent cleans a barrel faster than ballistol. I still use ballistol because it's non toxic. I just have to reapply it more frequently.
That is why I keep a little rag soaked with it in a ziplock so I can redo it often when afield, I don’t really use it as a bore cleaner, and form time to time I will use other lubes like G96… anyway I don’t swear by any of them lol I think even wd40 would work just as good.
 
Never tried any of the silicone stuff, but used lots of wax. Birchwood Cassidy gun stock wax works well. I've used a number of different good car waxes as well. While other guys were oiling their rifle everyday and we're still having rust problems. I just swabbed the barrel once with a pull through and the light dab of solvent. The next year they all switch to wax and have been doing so for 30 or 40 years now. Never had rust issue ever.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DGY
My favorites, that I've had many years of good results with: G96, Fluid Film, Ballistol. Bonus with the latter is that it is also effective for moisturizing your skin, treating wounds, etc............
 
  • Like
Reactions: DGY
My favorites, that I've had many years of good results with: G96, Fluid Film, Ballistol. Bonus with the latter is that it is also effective for moisturizing your skin, treating wounds, etc............

Yewf bin tawt well Grasshopper.
If you wish to see Fluid Film shine, use it removing stuck threads.
If you can make it move slightly, dowse it with yhis and move it back and forth slightly.
It will unstuck with payshints.

My ham fisted buddy breaks most anything with threads stuck.
He’s bin now educated on heat, FF and easy on movement.
 
My favorites, that I've had many years of good results with: G96, Fluid Film, Ballistol. Bonus with the latter is that it is also effective for moisturizing your skin, treating wounds, etc............
I like those options.... Fluid Film is mostly Lanolin.... works great on protecting metal parts from road salt damage too. You can buy it in 4 litre pails.
 
Back
Top Bottom