after using Pyrodex in one of my antique pistols it started up some small patches of pitting in the bore no matter how much oil etc. I put in every couple of months I get red rust on the patch and the small pits seem to be growing what could I use to neutralize this ? its driving me NUTS.
Rust what to Neutralize in Bore
- Thread starter DEZ
- Start date
- Location
- Algoma region
Hello,
I don't use anything except real black powder so please pardon my response I hope its helpful even though I don't use pyrodex.
After shooting
I clean all the metal parts, bore, lock etc with room temperature water until the water runs clear.-no soap nothing just water and a bore brush and steel wool.
I then patch dry the bore and parts previously cleaned with water.
Then I use standard rubbing alcohol clean it all again "tie a bit of rag to the ramrod and sop that in alcohol and really have at the bore and chambers"
I then put the arm aside for a few minutes while I clean up
Break free liberally applied to bore and chambers
Once a week I give the bores of my regular shooters a few swipes with a rag I keep tied around the ramrod tip saturated with break free a nice tight fit in the bore
-if its only oiled not greased-
If you are not going to regularly shoot I suggest a light coating of high pressure grease to the bore and chambers.
-It is easily removed with alcohol the night before shooting and gives excellent long term protection-
It may seem excessive to most but I truly enjoy and cherish all my arms so I give them the best care I can
- in return they function well for me , they all have pristene bores unless they came to me flawed-
I don't use anything except real black powder so please pardon my response I hope its helpful even though I don't use pyrodex.
After shooting
I clean all the metal parts, bore, lock etc with room temperature water until the water runs clear.-no soap nothing just water and a bore brush and steel wool.
I then patch dry the bore and parts previously cleaned with water.
Then I use standard rubbing alcohol clean it all again "tie a bit of rag to the ramrod and sop that in alcohol and really have at the bore and chambers"
I then put the arm aside for a few minutes while I clean up
Break free liberally applied to bore and chambers
Once a week I give the bores of my regular shooters a few swipes with a rag I keep tied around the ramrod tip saturated with break free a nice tight fit in the bore
-if its only oiled not greased-
If you are not going to regularly shoot I suggest a light coating of high pressure grease to the bore and chambers.
-It is easily removed with alcohol the night before shooting and gives excellent long term protection-
It may seem excessive to most but I truly enjoy and cherish all my arms so I give them the best care I can
- in return they function well for me , they all have pristene bores unless they came to me flawed-
Well, here goes the old debate. I use water but it is boiling water with some dish detergent added. I run the barrel full and let it stand a few seconds and then run it full again. After this I use clean patches to get the rest of the crud out and then use patches with a good bore cleaner/protector. Now the bore is shiny and the barrel very hot so it dries itself thoroughly leaving no moisture. I end the session by running a patch lubed with bore butter down the barrel and in chambers if it's a revolver. I always check the bore in a day or two with a clean white patch to see if there's any fouling or rust showing up...and there never has been!! I go once a month and run a patch with bore butter down all of my BP barrels. I have both antiques and also modern using BP in antiques and Pyrodex in the modern and treat all with the same diligence. Good luck, Dave
tactical870
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Buckhorn, Ontario
Bore butter has worked for me in the past... A good hot water cleaning after shooting then once dry, a good thick coat of bore butter .....
Dez, I've restored a couple of barrels usinng JB paste made by Brownells, they call it a non-embedding bore cleaning compound. It will polish out the pitting. I used it with a patch wrapped on a jagger and wire brush.
Cheers nessy.
Cheers nessy.
BrotherRockeye
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Rural Saskatchewan
rust check neutralizes rust.it comes in aerosol and paint on.
I have never used it in the bore of a firearm but it works wonders on other things.Beware,it turns rust black.I would imagine it could then be cleaned away but a test might be in order on something else before proceeding.
I have never used it in the bore of a firearm but it works wonders on other things.Beware,it turns rust black.I would imagine it could then be cleaned away but a test might be in order on something else before proceeding.
tactical870
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Buckhorn, Ontario
On very rusty bores, I like to plug the muzzle (or the nipple in percussion guns) with wax and then fill the bore with evaporust. It will remove EVERYTHING inside the bore overnight, but the bore needs to be well seasoned after or you will end up with worse rust than you had to start.
Yet another reason to avoid Pyrodex. Unlike black powder, Pyrodex actually leaves behind acid in its residue. It will actively rust your barrel, even in a dry environment. Maybe try a mild baking soda solution to neutralize the acids, then clean normally.
DEZ...just an idea but this worked for me in a rusty old '92...
I scrubbed the hell out of the bore with a bronze brush and "Fluid Film".....patched dry and I now use Fluid Film as a long term protectant in it......
I scrubbed the hell out of the bore with a bronze brush and "Fluid Film".....patched dry and I now use Fluid Film as a long term protectant in it......
- Location
- Sudbury, On
Evaporust. Let it soak, and it'll nuke the rust in no time.
Water dissolves the salts that cause rust from both pyrodex and black powder.
Pyrodex is a clorate product and will cause guns to rust far more quickly than regular black powder.
The only way to clean is hot soapy water and a stainless steel brush.
If you let it dry and then seal it with a good gun oil that should stop any more rust.
I corresponded with one of the fellows who used to work for GOEX about fifteen years ago. He would not use pryodex and in fact would not recomend GOEX powders during in the winter months.
His comment was that pryodex had less fouling but was far more corrosive than black powder - and the fouling would get in and corrode threads if they were not disassembled for cleaning. His concern was using pyrodex and having breech plug threads rust out. GOEX apparently got several guns a year with leaky breach plugs. Simple analysis showed a clorate powder was used rather than GOEX. Pyrodex is the only chlorate powder out there.
This fellow made the comment that the type of water GOEX used during manufacture over the course of the year - soft water from holding ponds made better powder than the hard water from wells during the winter months. Apparently the powder made with well water would leave a coat of scale in the bore that made cleaning the salts more difficult.
Pyro Pellets
I've shot .54 60 gr Pyrodex pellets in my Sharps '63s for years and the bores are perfect. I've never used loose Pyrodex or 777.
I clean with a mixture of Windex with vinegar, winter grade washer fluid and Murphy's oil soap. I use this on all my BP guns as a cleaning agent with no ill effects.
After cleaning, I use LPS 2 or LPS 3 as a rust inhibitor and water displacement agent. I get it at high end yachting stores as salt water boaters won't use anything else. When I haven't got that, G96 or any other such product works as well.
I've shot .54 60 gr Pyrodex pellets in my Sharps '63s for years and the bores are perfect. I've never used loose Pyrodex or 777.
I clean with a mixture of Windex with vinegar, winter grade washer fluid and Murphy's oil soap. I use this on all my BP guns as a cleaning agent with no ill effects.
After cleaning, I use LPS 2 or LPS 3 as a rust inhibitor and water displacement agent. I get it at high end yachting stores as salt water boaters won't use anything else. When I haven't got that, G96 or any other such product works as well.
I suspect you are cleaning immediately after shooting as well.
With pryodex even a few hours in a damp air uncleaned will result in a light layer of rust.
I took an iron bar - filed it to shinny - burnt about 5 grains of BP on one end and 5 Grains of pyrodex on the other -then put it in a bathroom. After ten hours the area that had burnt pryodex was visibly more rusty than the BP burn.
cleaning
10 X
You're right. I clean the bores of my all my BPCRs rifles BEFORE leaving the range. I have left the breech block of my '63 uncleaned overnight on occasion, but I soak it in cleaning solution and leave it in a plastic bag until the next morning.
I've also used Pyro 30 gr pellets in 44-40 rds for a great, easy loading cartridge. After a live fire demo at an historic venue, we were caught in a down pour! It was a day before I could properly strip and clean the .44-40 '66carbine I'd been shooting, and yes, it was very necessary.
Had I been properly equipped to adequately clean IMMEDIATELY after the rain, it would have been no problem. Lesson learned.
Like I've said about the Sharps '59s and '63s, I believe that these rifles suffered from improper cleaning very much as a result of the corrosive effects of the priming mixture of the era. Even with modern priming and BP, the Sharps percussion breechblock will go US very quickly if not properly stripped and cleaned after firing.
10 X
You're right. I clean the bores of my all my BPCRs rifles BEFORE leaving the range. I have left the breech block of my '63 uncleaned overnight on occasion, but I soak it in cleaning solution and leave it in a plastic bag until the next morning.
I've also used Pyro 30 gr pellets in 44-40 rds for a great, easy loading cartridge. After a live fire demo at an historic venue, we were caught in a down pour! It was a day before I could properly strip and clean the .44-40 '66carbine I'd been shooting, and yes, it was very necessary.
Had I been properly equipped to adequately clean IMMEDIATELY after the rain, it would have been no problem. Lesson learned.
Like I've said about the Sharps '59s and '63s, I believe that these rifles suffered from improper cleaning very much as a result of the corrosive effects of the priming mixture of the era. Even with modern priming and BP, the Sharps percussion breechblock will go US very quickly if not properly stripped and cleaned after firing.
You can also use Flitz. It is a little bit more aggressive than JB but is still a polish and will not remove any detectable amount of steel from the barrel.
I use Flitz to polish the inside of steel reloading dies.
Cleaning, we don't use Pyrodex, only BP. My kids were competing with muzzleloaders and when shooting/cleaning 3 or 4 times a week, they really got a routine down pat.
- Pail of boiling water, added some of their patch mix, (Pinesol, water soluble cutting oil, ethyl or isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol),
- remove nipple,
- run a soaking patch though to get really dirty stuff out
- stick breach end in bucket,
- clean outside of barrel and other parts in still clean water
- use tight patch and it acts like a piston drawing water up barrel and scrubs it at the same time.
- finish with coat of bore butter
If we were using Pyrodex, then we would be using Break Free or CLP, because part of the Mil specification is that it neutralizes chlorates.
I use one of those dollar store hand showers for a kitchen sink with the shower end cut off and a cut off cartridge case inserted in the end.
Hot water run through the barrel until it is too hot to hold, then hit it with a blow dryer and it will dry within minutes.
stevejones
Regular
- Location
- Courtenay, BC
Cleaning
I have found that cleaning with a mixture of windshield washer fluid (the blue stuff), Murphys oil soap ( about a tablespoon to a jug of washer fluid) and then adding enough water soluble cutting oil to turn the concoction a mint green color to be the best pb and pyrodex cleaner I have ever used. You can plug the nipple on your percussion gun or clamp a seal over the touch hole on a flinter and fill the barrel right up to the the top. This will eliminate all the nasty by products of both types of propellents. After wiping the bore dry I folow up with G96 or break free. NEVER have I had any indications of corrosion in my repro's or my antiques.
Cheers. steve
I have found that cleaning with a mixture of windshield washer fluid (the blue stuff), Murphys oil soap ( about a tablespoon to a jug of washer fluid) and then adding enough water soluble cutting oil to turn the concoction a mint green color to be the best pb and pyrodex cleaner I have ever used. You can plug the nipple on your percussion gun or clamp a seal over the touch hole on a flinter and fill the barrel right up to the the top. This will eliminate all the nasty by products of both types of propellents. After wiping the bore dry I folow up with G96 or break free. NEVER have I had any indications of corrosion in my repro's or my antiques.
Cheers. steve
