Rusted model 70 bolt

vagrantonwalkabout

vagrantonwalkabout

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I seem to always end up with the project rifles...
Model 70 Winchester post 64 push feed 30-06 "ranger", 3 position safety, believe manufactured in 1990.
What can I use to remove a rusted together bolt back end? (firing pin / cocking indicator n safety) I have a ultrasonic cleaner, asking for recommendations on what rust remover goop I can try with the ultrasonic that ideally won't strip the bluing off of the bolt.

When the rifle arrived to me the safety was stuck in forward fire position and the bolt plus safety would not move in the action. The rear cocking / firing pin indicator was part way out with a noticeable rust ring around it.. A smack upwards and the bolt moved up so I could remove it. Before removing the bolt i tried to move the safety but couldn't. Tried to take apart the bolt, the firing pin released. According to YouTube while holding down the little pin on the side with extra hand strength I should still be able to twist the back of the bolt off or twist it back to were the pin sits back in the indent.
 
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Try gasoline in a plastic mayo jar. It will keep the gooey crap in the throw away jar and keep your ultrasonic cleaner cleaner.
Works for me.
 
I clean up some smaller rusty parts by throwing them in the case tumbler for a few hours. Doesnt get rid of heavy rust but certainly cleans up parts after I've done a bit of prep. Works for cleaning up dies that get a coating of rust from not being used.
 
I use Ed's Red home brew for jobs like that. There are several recipes. The one I like is equal parts ATF, acetone, kerosene and WD40. ATF and acetone are the key ingredients and it needs to be stored in a metal or glass container because the acetone can dissipate through some plastics. Submerge the part in the liquid and let it sit for a few days to two or three weeks. Beats the heck out of any other penetrating fluid I have tried. I currently have an a 1790's lock and a breech plug soaking in it.
 
You got the bolt out, so the bolt sleeve is rotating in the bolt. Good news.
Grab the cocking piece in a vise, and pull the firing pin assembly back to cocked position. Will the safety move to the middle position? If so, with the safety in the middle position, you should be able to push in the bolt sleeve lock and turn the bolt sleeve/firing pin assembly out of the bolt.
If the safety won't move, hold the cocking piece in the vise, bull it back, and keeping it there, push in the bolt sleeve lock and unscrew the bolt sleeve/firing pin assembly.
Once you get it out you can remover the little U clip retainer and remove the mainspring collar. The main spring is strong and under tension. Be careful!
To remove the safety, there is a very small splined pin that must be tapped out. Similarly, the bolt sleeve lock is retained by a small pin.
I wouldn't use gasoline; a good penetrating oil, like Kroil, is effective, and a whole lot safer.
 
B_noser said:
I use Ed's Red home brew for jobs like that. There are several recipes. The one I like is equal parts ATF, acetone, kerosene and WD40. ATF and acetone are the key ingredients and it needs to be stored in a metal or glass container because the acetone can dissipate through some plastics. Submerge the part in the liquid and let it sit for a few days to two or three weeks. Beats the heck out of any other penetrating fluid I have tried. I currently have an a 1790's lock and a breech plug soaking in it.
Click to expand...
I thought Ed's had Lanolin in it ?
 
Hoppes #9 Solvent removes rust and does not remove bluing. And scrub with 0000 steel wool. That has worked well for over 50 years.
But as bad as your bolt is why are you worried about removing bluing? Strip it all away, polish and re blue. No collector there.
 
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FatCatsDad said:
I thought Ed's had Lanolin in it ?
Click to expand...
As mentioned, I believe there are variations of it - I mixed some of equal parts ATF, Kerosene, Acetone and Varsol. I did another mix without the Acetone - it works, but slower. For just penetrating stuff, I mixed Acetone plus ATF - equal portions - kept that in a clear Coke jug - can see the Acetone float up and the ATF go down after a few days - have to shake it good to use it - I do not think the components actually mix or dissolve into each other. The Ed's Red mixes were in litre jugs that I could not see into - I presume they separated also, but I do not know - I was shake hell out of it before using it. Is also an aerosol spray can of Deep Creep penetrating oil and a squirt bottle of WD-40 - all have their uses.
 
I’ve had good luck using Fluid Film.
That Browning Trombome I posted a whilst ago was rusted right shut.
Spraid that stinky chit on it and let it percolate.
Things started to move after a while with some encouragement.
 
Wipe Out bore cleaner dissolves rust to the bare steel over thirty minutes soaking.

You can dip it in the liquid or pour it on or just rub it in. It's creepy as well.

I use it all the time
 
Sorry about ancient phone blurry pics and trying to picture black on black.
Soak bolt in Ed's red (atf, kerosene, acetone, wd40 mix it is what I had on hand.) If I pry up on the firing pin it moves now and the safety wiggles. No surface rust on bolt but lots of rusty colored stuff coming out from the inside. Still have the problem of the firing pin being all the way down and in the way of disassembly. Or twisting the rear bolt assembly back enough to re-set pin (middle pic left side) so bolt can go back into rifle, then allowing me to try and put the safety in the middle position (for disassembly). I'm assuming the safety won't move with the way the bolt /firing pin is right now regardless of rust. Want to disassemble the bolt to proper clean of the inside.
 

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Grab the long bar of the cocking piece in a vise. Pull the bolt body away from the vise, pulling the firing pin back. If you can rotate the safety to the half way position, you're golden.
When I had my shop, I had to work on a lot of rusted, seized guns. Yours isn't that bad at all.
 
vagrantonwalkabout said:
I seem to always end up with the project rifles...
Model 70 Winchester post 64 push feed 30-06 "ranger", 3 position safety, believe manufactured in 1990.
What can I use to remove a rusted together bolt back end? (firing pin / cocking indicator n safety) I have a ultrasonic cleaner, asking for recommendations on what rust remover goop I can try with the ultrasonic that ideally won't strip the bluing off of the bolt.

When the rifle arrived to me the safety was stuck in forward fire position and the bolt plus safety would not move in the action. The rear cocking / firing pin indicator was part way out with a noticeable rust ring around it.. A smack upwards and the bolt moved up so I could remove it. Before removing the bolt i tried to move the safety but couldn't. Tried to take apart the bolt, the firing pin released. According to YouTube while holding down the little pin on the side with extra hand strength I should still be able to twist the back of the bolt off or twist it back to were the pin sits back in the indent.
Click to expand...
It doesn't look all that bad - should clean up nice with some 0000 steel wool.

I'd soak it in Mineral spirits in a jar for a day or two. It'll come right apart. Or Gasoline, Naptha, etc - whatever you have lying around. Mineral Spirits is safe and cheap though.
 
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