Hello it is my first post so can you help me please. I have a bad mosin nagant stock and I want to make it rustic like this https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2933/14739810456_a2887947d5_b.jpg did someone is able to tell me how to do this kind of finish (dark grain and dent). Thank you
Rustic stock finish
- Thread starter papiloran
- Start date
Throw it in the gang box that sits in the back of yer pick'im up.
Pour some old diesel engun oil in there as well.
Jackawl jack, bawtle jack, old axe, shuvill, chains and maybe a chainsaw oar two.
Kupple cresint wrenches, propane bawtle, sum beer bawtles.
Kupple rawks ……….round preferibbly.
Go acrost the Overlander bridge a few times and do sum errands in Loopy land.
Them pawt'oles will werky pretty quick.
Pour some old diesel engun oil in there as well.
Jackawl jack, bawtle jack, old axe, shuvill, chains and maybe a chainsaw oar two.
Kupple cresint wrenches, propane bawtle, sum beer bawtles.
Kupple rawks ……….round preferibbly.
Go acrost the Overlander bridge a few times and do sum errands in Loopy land.
Them pawt'oles will werky pretty quick.
"Love It" would that be just the wooden stock.. ? or the whole rifle... ?
Well, that works for you, but the OP is in the land of Québécois...
Things might be a little more civilized back there.
Rob
it looks like they removed the shellac and gave it an oil finish, boiled linseed maybe? The darker areas in the dents look to be from years of old oil/dirt and grime. As far as the dents go, well thats on you how they get there. Use her, but dont abuse her.
Yee-ah meen I gartzs tuh tranzslayt'it intuh Franckie-says...………..in Lookanese……….?...…………..
Ohh-Lee fruck, why yew gottah bee like that?
barry1974w
Regular
- Location
- Central B.C.
You may get a similar look if you sand your stock down and judiciously apply a blow torch, then put a hand rubbed oil finish over the scorch marks. As I said “may”....
If you want to duplicate that finish, DON'T SAND IT.
First, take an SOS cleaning pad, you know the are steel wool pads with strong soap embedded into them.
Soak the pad in water, to soften the soap and scrub down the stock. Don't get to aggressive or you will take off the sharp edges, which is a sure sign an amateur bubba was at work.
There's lots of the aggressive soap in the pad so just keep dipping it in water and rubbing things down. Depending on how much grease/oil/dirt is in the stock, you may need a couple of pads.
Once it looks OK, wipe it down with WET PAPER TOWELS or RAGS to get rid o any soap left in the pores or cracks. It's not corrosive so don't get worried if a bit shows up later.
The steel wool in the pads will have taken down the loose fibers on the wood and give you a relatively smooth finish, that isn't to smooth and will leave the markings and dents intact.
Set the stock beside a heat vent and let it dry for a couple of days.
After it's dried, there will likely be a few ends sticking up. Take a piece of cardboard from a corrugated box and lightly wipe the surface. When it looks good, there are a couple of things you can do.
The easiest finish to apply is Linseed Oil by itself. I like to heat it up first so it penetrates a bit better. Set it aside again to dry for a couple of days or until it's dry to the touch. Don't slather it on in thick dollops or it will take a week or more to dry. I usually mix the Boiled Linseed Oil with Alcohol or Acetone in a 50/50 proportion before rubbing it in. It penetrates better and dries faster.
If you want a really shiny finish, use 3 equal parts of BLO/Acetone or Alcohol/Spar Varnish. You may want to increase the thinner to appx 50%.
By thinning the BLO and Varnish, the coats are lighter and easier to control to get the finish you desire. If it's to shiny for your taste, take some 000000 steel wool and rub it down very lightly. This will take the shine off.
TURF THE LIBERALS IN OCTOBER
LIBERALS REALLY LIKE POOR PEOPLE, they're making more of them every day
If you can't vote CPC, stay at home in protest
First, take an SOS cleaning pad, you know the are steel wool pads with strong soap embedded into them.
Soak the pad in water, to soften the soap and scrub down the stock. Don't get to aggressive or you will take off the sharp edges, which is a sure sign an amateur bubba was at work.
There's lots of the aggressive soap in the pad so just keep dipping it in water and rubbing things down. Depending on how much grease/oil/dirt is in the stock, you may need a couple of pads.
Once it looks OK, wipe it down with WET PAPER TOWELS or RAGS to get rid o any soap left in the pores or cracks. It's not corrosive so don't get worried if a bit shows up later.
The steel wool in the pads will have taken down the loose fibers on the wood and give you a relatively smooth finish, that isn't to smooth and will leave the markings and dents intact.
Set the stock beside a heat vent and let it dry for a couple of days.
After it's dried, there will likely be a few ends sticking up. Take a piece of cardboard from a corrugated box and lightly wipe the surface. When it looks good, there are a couple of things you can do.
The easiest finish to apply is Linseed Oil by itself. I like to heat it up first so it penetrates a bit better. Set it aside again to dry for a couple of days or until it's dry to the touch. Don't slather it on in thick dollops or it will take a week or more to dry. I usually mix the Boiled Linseed Oil with Alcohol or Acetone in a 50/50 proportion before rubbing it in. It penetrates better and dries faster.
If you want a really shiny finish, use 3 equal parts of BLO/Acetone or Alcohol/Spar Varnish. You may want to increase the thinner to appx 50%.
By thinning the BLO and Varnish, the coats are lighter and easier to control to get the finish you desire. If it's to shiny for your taste, take some 000000 steel wool and rub it down very lightly. This will take the shine off.
TURF THE LIBERALS IN OCTOBER
LIBERALS REALLY LIKE POOR PEOPLE, they're making more of them every day
If you can't vote CPC, stay at home in protest
Yee-ah meen I gartzs tuh tranzslayt'it intuh Franckie-says...………..in Lookanese……….?...…………..
Ohh-Lee fruck, why yew gottah bee like that?
Je n' en ai aucune id'ee...
bearhunter gartz it though.
Bravo.
This stock finish look looks like a specific finish done at a factory. On the west coast it was called Finn Wax as the Finns used it on salmon boat decks, wooden skis, and etc. Mix pine tar, linseed oil and turpentine in thirds then heat to a simmer outdoors and slop it on heavy while hot with a brush. Don't blow your face off that would be silly. Let it cool and soak in, then wipe off the excess. Repeat. A substitute for pine tar would be asphaltum, which is basically just roofing tar, but use less of it because it is sticky and very black and pine tar less so. The mixture of tar, linseed, and turpentine will set quite quickly so be careful.
Depends on what the wood is but often they're an elm or birch or something like that. The dark variation is because the black tar acts like a stain and gets into more open and softer grain, or into the open pores. I favor sandpaper over steel wool as steel wool can leave either metal flecks or react with moisture and give black streaks. In your case go over the wood with furniture stripper (not airplane paint stripper, blue, or yellow oven cleaner) and give a basic sand, if at all, once the old finish is gone. A brown scotchbrite pad from NAPA is good for this. NO POWER TOOLS.
You could try the other strippers but they can leave a grey over a stock that then need bleaching out again.
You could try the other strippers but they can leave a grey over a stock that then need bleaching out again.
