Rusting reloading equipment.

K

katanaa

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Regina, Sask
Hey guys. With the humidity this summer I'm finding that my reloading equipment is getting some light surface rust. I started reloading in the winter when humidity wasn't a problem. But lately my stuff is getting a bit orange. I think I'm going to start keeping it all in a Tupperware tub with some deccicant.

How do you deal with rust? Can I put small parts in my tumbler or ultra sonic to clean off the rust?

Thanks for your input.
 
One day I found a my die box full of water (from a leaky drain pipe upstairs) and surface rust all over my dies. I bought a product called Evapo-rust from cdn tire and it worked very well!

I now coat all my dies in T9 Boeshield.
 
If it's only a light orange film just a wipe down with a well oiled rag using regular oil will work like a treat.

I've got raw bright steel items in my machine shop that gets fairly humid at times over the summers and they still look like new despite being over 20 years old. The "secret" being that they get oil rubbed on them either during use or during cleanups and maintenance times.

WD40 is too thin and wipes off to easily from handling so it's not really a good choice as a protectant. But it's a great product for the initial cleaning up of the surface rust.

Dry lubricants might work OK where it's fairly dry but if you're in an area of Sask that has high humidity then like me you may find that dry lube, teflon or something else, doesn't work all that well at corrosion prevention.
 
I use mostly Lee dies, and they rust pretty easy. I cured that by putting a cleaning patch with several drops of motor oil on it in the die case under one on the dies. The oil evaporates very slowly and acts like an oil vapor barrier.
 
AHiltz said:
If your equipment is starting to rust, what is your powder doing....
Click to expand...

Nothing. It is in a sealed container. My dies are fine too in their boxes. It the stuff that sits on the bench that is rusting like my case trimmer powder thrower, and a couple other odds and ends. The powder is only exposed to air for short periods and I've never had a pound of power sitting around for more than a month.
 
Since powder and oil don't play well together I'd like to modify my first suggestion. For a while now I've been using EEZOX in my .22 semi auto guns. It's a dry lube which is also supposed to be good at resisting corrosion. So far it's working. But then my other handguns don't get rusty in the safe either. But it may be one answer for your situation.

What you really want to do is run a dehumidifier in the area you're working. But if that area is open to air flowing in and out then it won't help. New humid air will come in faster than you can "dry" it. A dehumidifier will only work well if the airflow is blocked or of a lower volume exchange rate.
 
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