rusty 94 win

My two bits. Let whatever you are trying as penetrant, sit for a few days, on a windowsill that gets some sun, if you can.

Then have at both ends of the screws, with a soft punch, not super hard, just trying to break any rust buildup into finer particles.

Then have at the screw heads.
 
I second the recommendation of using a little heat with the penetrant. I got a marred and rusted in carrier spindle screw in a model 99 receiver out this way a few weeks ago.

I use heat on rusty bolts when working on cars all the time. My method is to heat it up with a propane torch (or oxy fuel) being careful not to get it glowing hot so that you don't change the steel's temper, when hot I then spray penetrant onto the fastener so that it rapidly cools the part and the heat will help wick up the penetrant. Just be careful that you don't catch anything on fire or inhale the smoke from the penetrant... Do it outside!
 
In controlled rusted nut tests no penetrating oil required 516lbs to remove,WD40-238lbs,PB Blaster -214lbs,Liquid Wrench -127lbs,Kroil-106lbs and ATF/Acetone 50/50 mix 53lbs. Seems clear to me.
 
imo if atf/acetone really worked and has been rumoured to for so long, someone would have commercialized it already

Deep Creep works best for me, and repeated heat cycles over time, surprising what patience can accomplish
an impact driver may help, the one where each hammer blow adds twist to the bit, again light and repeated
 
sealevel said:
i did end up submerging it in 50-50 for 4 days and got all the screws out and apart . except screwing off the barrel but i havn`t tried real hard
Click to expand...

I'm glad to hear you got things apart. For that barrel - not certain what you are trying to salvage - I have a decent barrel vise that I make my inserts from aluminum on my lathe - I put a layer or two of computer paper between the inserts and the barrel, so I don't leave aluminum smudges - just no guts to try to turn those things from steel like real gunsmiths do. So far, my receiver vise and barrel vise get set up perhaps 1/4" (6mm) apart from each other - with the joining line for barrel to receiver between them.

Then I REALLY torque on those barrel vise clamping bolts - 5/8" fine thread - my big torque wrench goes to 250 foot-pounds - I go that far - then put a 3 foot snipe on a strong arm, a 1/2" drive impact socket and go some more. I have not had a barrel slip in the barrel vice since I started to go that tight - but had several slip before that. Is not uncommon to see where the aluminum has "flowed" under that pressure - to accommodate angular or other mistakes that I made when turning those for tapered barrel chamber areas (P14 and M1917 and Lee Enfield). There is also a bag of rosin - like softball or baseball pitchers use on their throwing hand - it apparently helps to "grab", if dusted onto the contact points. I do not always remember to use that stuff. Is a version of barrel vise that I have seen that uses wood blocks with a hole for the barrel - not sure if those can get torqued to be tight enough to hold a "tight" barrel - I had read one guy who used epoxy to glue the barrel to the wood - that worked, but he had to destroy that wood to free up that barrel - must have been really "PO'd" to do that.

On the receiver, not nearly so tight - again, a snug fitting receiver vise on the outside, but only tight enough that there is no wobble or wiggle - do not want to crush that receiver around that barrel tenon thread, but needs to be snug enough that you do not mark that receiver - does not hurt to have layer or two of paper in there, either. If barrel is to be tossed - can cut a slot with hacksaw - saw about 1/8" or less (2 to 3 mm) from line where barrel shoulder meets the receiver - say about the same deep - 1/8" deep (2 to 3 mm) - that about totally releases the tension on the barrel tenon threads - some who have done so say the barrel unscrewed by hand, after cutting that relief slot all the way around. I have read (perhaps on CGN) that some guys have re-salvaged a barrel that had that slot cut - they set in lathe - re-cut a new shoulder, trim some off rear end of the barrel to match, and then ream a new chamber - I do not remember, but perhaps they pick up a thread or two on the barrel tenon that they work on.

I have unscrewed WWI barrels from M1917 receivers or maybe they were P14, and on several Mauser 96 and Mauser 98 - totally amazed there is still fluid on some of those threads - was no rust at all, on many. A real good "smack" on the receiver wrench handle with a three pound hand sledge hammer, or a six or eight pound long handle one - often breaks things loose to unspin it off a barrel held very tightly and solidly in a good barrel vice - as if that "shock" gets more done, then "eye-popping" slow torque does.
 
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Potashminer said:
I'm glad to hear you got things apart. For that barrel - not certain what you are trying to salvage - I have a decent barrel vise that I make my inserts from aluminum on my lathe - I put a layer or two of computer paper between the inserts and the barrel, so I don't leave aluminum smudges - just no guts to try to turn those things from steel like real gunsmiths do. So far, my receiver vise and barrel vise get set up perhaps 1/4" (6mm) apart from each other - with the joining line for barrel to receiver between them.

Then I REALLY torque on those barrel vise clamping bolts - 5/8" fine thread - my big torque wrench goes to 250 foot-pounds - I go that far - then put a 3 foot snipe on a strong arm, a 1/2" drive impact socket and go some more. I have not had a barrel slip in the barrel vice since I started to go that tight - but had several slip before that. Is not uncommon to see where the aluminum has "flowed" under that pressure - to accommodate angular or other mistakes that I made when turning those for tapered barrel chamber areas (P14 and M1917 and Lee Enfield). There is also a bag of rosin - like softball or baseball pitchers use on their throwing hand - it apparently helps to "grab", if dusted onto the contact points. I do not always remember to use that stuff. Is a version of barrel vise that I have seen that uses wood blocks with a hole for the barrel - not sure if those can get torqued to be tight enough to hold a "tight" barrel - I had read one guy who used epoxy to glue the barrel to the wood - that worked, but he had to destroy that wood to free up that barrel - must have been really "PO'd" to do that.

On the receiver, not nearly so tight - again, a snug fitting receiver vise on the outside, but only tight enough that there is no wobble or wiggle - do not want to crush that receiver around that barrel tenon thread, but needs to be snug enough that you do not mark that receiver - does not hurt to have layer or two of paper in there, either. If barrel is to be tossed - can cut a slot with hacksaw - saw about 1/8" or less (2 to 3 mm) from line where barrel shoulder meets the receiver - say about the same deep - 1/8" deep (2 to 3 mm) - that about totally releases the tension on the barrel tenon threads - some who have done so say the barrel unscrewed by hand, after cutting that relief slot all the way around. I have read (perhaps on CGN) that some guys have re-salvaged a barrel that had that slot cut - they set in lathe - re-cut a new shoulder, trim some off rear end of the barrel to match, and then ream a new chamber - I do not remember, but perhaps they pick up a thread or two on the barrel tenon that they work on.

I have unscrewed WWI barrels from M1917 receivers or maybe they were P14, and on several Mauser 96 and Mauser 98 - totally amazed there is still fluid on some of those threads - was no rust at all, on many. A real good "smack" on the receiver wrench handle with a three pound hand sledge hammer, or a six or eight pound long handle one - often breaks things loose to unspin it off a barrel held very tightly and solidly in a good barrel vice - as if that "shock" gets more done, then "eye-popping" slow torque does.
Click to expand...

i cranked off a p17 just last week so my vice is good . this one may need to soak a while longer
 
Barrel tight - no telling what amount of torque needed once rust is in play - I have read some target shooting guys will turn in a barrel only hand tight - apparently any more "torque" plays hell with fine accuracy - entirely different need than when the rifle barrel is used as part of a bayonet handle. I have no clue how tight good commercial barrels get turned into their receivers at commercial factories - most of the military ones that I played with apparently had sights pre-installed, then an indicator mark on the bottom - crank that barrel until marks line up on receiver, and the sights would be more or less Top Dead Centre. Is several "good deals", here, that I bought mostly for parts - they show evidence of pipe wrench gouges and bench vise jaw marks - so is at least several ways to get guns apart, I guess.

For that 50-50 stuff - as per an earlier post - I noticed what I mixed up wants to separate - might be an idea to periodically "re-mix" it - maybe after several days - to get the most benefit from soaking? And I suspect if left to soak in an open trough or container - is much acetone smell - so I think that stuff likes to evaporate away - not real sure what is actually left in there after several days in the open.
 
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