S and B 357 Magnum primer pockets

mactroneng

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So I went to load some 357 the other day, and right off the bat goofed a primer seating (not quite goofed, didn't force it in). Fiddled with my Loadmaster because, although I haven't had previous issues, they are known for screwing up primers, and got it to work. Second case, same thing.

In attempt to troubleshoot I grabbed a handful of mixed brass and it was all good until I hit another S&B case.

I read that some S&B brass has small pockets, but nothing specifically called out 357 mag (or 38 SPL, I assume they'd originate from the same line at the factory).

Anyone else encounter this? And what do?
 
Yep I take my chamfer tool to the primer pockets. A lot of S&B cases have tight pockets. My 8x57 and 7.62x54 also. My 38 stuff I just sort and put in a jar and if I ever run out of the 5 or 6 thousand or so cases I ll get back to them and fix them. Good brass but a bit of a pain to fix the pockets.
 
S&B has tight pockets in every cartridge I have ever loaded. I have found a hand primer works fine for whatever reason while my Dillon usually has a lot of trouble. I separate them and hand prime. After a loading or two they get better. Too lazy to chamfer.
 
I don't bother loading S&B brass anymore, too many problems (thick(er) brass/tight pockets).
 
Real tight primer pockets. I was loading s&b 6.5x55 last night with lots of issues, a big chamfer helped it out lots. I got them primmed with out any issues after that. I also have about 200 303br brass ill have to chamfer too before using it. Other wise you will get messed up primers and preflattened primers so they are usless for pressure signs
 
Yomomma has hit the problem right on the head. When using S&B primers, the problem seems to go away. Part of the problem with Sellier & Bellot primer pockets I believe, may be that these European-manufactured cartridges are drawn to Metric, rather than Imperial dimensions. So...this being likely, there will be very slight dimensional changes with regards to their primer pockets. Enough that, Imperial-dimensioned primers are a bit of a mismatch. Unless the primer pocket is swaged, to accommodate. After swaging...at least in my experience...regular Winchester, Federal, etc. primers seat no harder than in any other North American-manufactured case brand.
 
Yomomma has hit the problem right on the head. When using S&B primers, the problem seems to go away. Part of the problem with Sellier & Bellot primer pockets I believe, may be that these European-manufactured cartridges are drawn to Metric, rather than Imperial dimensions. So...this being likely, there will be very slight dimensional changes with regards to their primer pockets. Enough that, Imperial-dimensioned primers are a bit of a mismatch. Unless the primer pocket is swaged, to accommodate. After swaging...at least in my experience...regular Winchester, Federal, etc. primers seat no harder than in any other North American-manufactured case brand.

The only problem with that theory is that the S&B primers would fit loosely in brass other than S&B. There are worldwide standards for some things... Boxer primer dimension standards must be within a certain spec otherwise liability flood gates would be opened. I worked on a Toyota 4Runner engine swap: Universal fit for the block casting and the ancillary components can be attached at different places for vehicle. Japanese engine, metric fasteners and dimensions except for the NPT oil filter attachment point. I suppose that'd be more surprising if it were a Whitworth thread.

In addition to the tight primer pockets, the head is flat: making a slight taper in the pocket, with a neck deburring tool is all I've ever done with S&B brass. It's still tight the first couple times, but it's good brass and worth the bother.
 
The only problem with that theory is that the S&B primers would fit loosely in brass other than S&B. There are worldwide standards for some things... Boxer primer dimension standards must be within a certain spec otherwise liability flood gates would be opened. I worked on a Toyota 4Runner engine swap: Universal fit for the block casting and the ancillary components can be attached at different places for vehicle. Japanese engine, metric fasteners and dimensions except for the NPT oil filter attachment point. I suppose that'd be more surprising if it were a Whitworth thread.

In addition to the tight primer pockets, the head is flat: making a slight taper in the pocket, with a neck deburring tool is all I've ever done with S&B brass. It's still tight the first couple times, but it's good brass and worth the bother.

There will always be variations...

calhoonprimers02.png
 
In addition to the tight primer pockets, the head is flat: making a slight taper in the pocket, with a neck deburring tool is all I've ever done with S&B brass. It's still tight the first couple times, but it's good brass and worth the bother.

I've always found this to work just fine on a few different S&B cartridges I've run into.
 
Mine prime just fine with the rcbshand primer, but the correct listed shell holder is slightly too big and the primer pocket centers a bit too far to seat the primer without bouncing off orjamming on one side. I just push the brass not quite all the way into the shell holder then feel it in with the squeeze handle
 
For the very small amount of S&B handgun brass I end up with they go in the brass recycle bucket as it’s just not worth the time.
 
Mine prime just fine with the rcbshand primer, but the correct listed shell holder is slightly too big and the primer pocket centers a bit too far to seat the primer without bouncing off orjamming on one side. I just push the brass not quite all the way into the shell holder then feel it in with the squeeze handle

Try just putting a super slim letracet strip in the end of the shell holder. Mine ended up being 3 layers and its perfectly centered. Kind of a bumper in the u shaped end.
 
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