S and B primer pockets

Insanity Required

CGN Regular
Rating - 100%
18   0   0
Location
Edmonton ish
Does anybody other than me find tbat S&B primer pockes seem to be to small¿ I have more than one caliber and more than one primer but find it almost imposible to seat primers. Normaly i just cull that brass but i have started a new caliber and all i have is S&B with the same problem. What do people do to fix the problem¿ i am guessing a reamer to enlarge the pocket, or am i wrong¿

Please and thank you for your help in advance.
 
I shoot a lot of s&b with my 6.5x55.. How are you priming? Hand tool or press? I find with the press they may go in a little bit rougher, but no damage.. I have had issues with 1F hornady brass with my .308 though, I scrapped that.
 
The primer pockets are tight and I’ve noticed that the brass is a little bit harder to resize than other brands. S&B is my most plentiful headstamp for .38 and .45 so I do a full primer pocket ream, uniform, and flash hole deburr and use them for match ammo.
 
I have a lot of S&B brass in .38spl and .357mg. I have never had issues with “tight primer pockets” with them. And never done anything to the primer pockets. They seat extremely well whether I’m using the on press (Co-ax) or the hand primer tool (RCBS). And the S&B brass seems to last a lot longer then other headstamps.

I absolutely love it when people just leave the S&B on the ground after firing it.
 
I have a ton of S&B as others have mentioned you'll just had too use the appropriate Primer pocket tool. Its decent brass for range use , worth it in my option to take the time to use the chamfer tool. As othershave stated I love finding once fired S&B 7.62 x 39 308 or 6.5 CM brass
 
The only S&B brass I have ever bothered with is 45 ACP and yes, the primer pockets are very tight to the point where I would not trust adequate primer seating if done on a progressive press. Some of my friends just threw them in the garbage but being the scrounger that I am I thought I would take a crack at making them more user friendly. I took a #4 drill bit, ground the tip flat, chucked it up in my drill and used it as a primer pocket reamer in my drill. It removes just a bit of brass but makes the cases far easier to prime. I also chamfer the primer pocket mouths to take the square edges off. It's a bit of work that I would not do with, say, 9mm which plentiful but 45s are much more expensive and less common and S&B is decent quality brass easily on a par with domestic brands.
 
Thank you for the info.
I have done 9mm and 38 spl before on the press (progressive) and with a hand primer, both with no luck. I am starting to do 303 and all the brass i have is S&B. I tried with the hand primer last night and it took everything i had with both hands to get 3 in about 3/4 seated in like 10 minutes. I had the thought of using the press (single stage) as it wold have better leverage but did not get to it last night. I will try a few on the press and a few chamfer'd as well.

Thank you.
 
They are not tight per say, they are straight walled which usually causes the issue of them feeling 'tight'. As has been posted chamfer the edges or swage the pockets and you are good to go.
 
38Spl and 357 mag S&B plus Ginex primer is pretty snug. I take my time to verify my batches are all seated deep enough.

Same brass with CCI primer slides in like butter
 
I have a high rate of crushed primers when I am loading S&B brass with S&B primers, for 45 ACP. I do not normally sort my pistol brass by headstamp but with the .45, I found I had to. On my Hornady AP, I had about a 1 in 5 failure rate which really slows down production. Now I sort out the S&B brass and load it separately with another brand of primer. I do not have an issue with 9mm but find that I have started to separate it as well just out of habit.
 
Back
Top Bottom