S&B Brass Issue: Heads up

caperbound

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At the range today I was playing with some reloads. At one point my 357 Blackhawk started to bind up but free'd up so I didn't think anymore about it. Then it happened again. Turns out that about 50% of the S&B brass I loaded had a slightly thicker headstamp that my gun didn't like. I will have to sort though my casing stash and seperate accordingly. Anyone else have this issue.
 
i havent had that issue in my revolver, but i've had an issue with 38/357 s&b brass even fitting in the shell holder on my press, and about every 5th one is difficult to prime
 
i havent had that issue in my revolver, but i've had an issue with 38/357 s&b brass even fitting in the shell holder on my press, and about every 5th one is difficult to prime

I have the same issue with S&B 9mm brass. Exactly the same issue, and moreso with priming....Hmmmm....
 
Out of the 3000 range pickup 9mm I loaded last week, over 50% of the S&B brass had priming issues. I had over 100 bad peices before I gave up and sorted the remaining 2000 peices to remove the S&B brass.

Problem were always priming related, either crushing one side of the primer on the primer pocket, orif it made it into the primer pocket, the whole primer would crush. (not ignite though)

I use a Dillon 1050, so priming is automatic, and sorting brass is harder when you have a casefeeder.
 
S&B brass

I thought I was the only one having issues repriming S&B brass. :(
Whether it's 7.62x39mm or 7.62x54mmR- same problem: it's a major pain
getting primers to the proper depth, even after using a Lyman primer pocket
tool.

Do we have to convert a drill bit into a tiny end mill and enlarge the pocket
1 or 2 thou? :confused: What will it take?


*end rant*

-zip
 
Almost 50% of my 9mm brass is S&B. Yes, the pockets are a little tighter than others - I first noticed it while using Lee AutoPrime, but the AutoPrime never had a problem with primer seating depth, just required a bit of extra pressure.

When I switched to priming on my Hornady LnL, I had proud primers with almost every piece of S&B brass. Gluing a small washer onto the frame under the priming punch solved that problem.

I have yet to have a crushed primer using either method.
 
Out of the 3000 range pickup 9mm I loaded last week, over 50% of the S&B brass had priming issues. I had over 100 bad peices before I gave up and sorted the remaining 2000 peices to remove the S&B brass.

Problem were always priming related, either crushing one side of the primer on the primer pocket, orif it made it into the primer pocket, the whole primer would crush. (not ignite though)

I use a Dillon 1050, so priming is automatic, and sorting brass is harder when you have a casefeeder.

That's why it's important to have your swaging tool adjusted properly, your priming system adjusted properly, and a pair of twin 9 year old boys sorting your brass. (It's awesome what you can get done on a rainy Sunday for a package of Pokemon cards.:D)
 
I have had so many problems with S&B that I now just toss it into the brass recycle bucket. I thought it was the practice everyone followed. Those and the Nontox from Winchester I think it was.
 
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