S&W 15 Sport 2 Fore-end Accessories Question

Wester said:
OP, you seem to be asking the same questions as I did and this is what I ended up doing.
Starting from the front:
- Magpul MOE SL® Hand Guard, Carbine-Length – AR15/M4 MAG538. This version gives you a bit of extra protection around the A2 gas block and a more forward grip.
- Magpul M-LOK® Cantilever Rail/Light Mount, Polymer MAG587
- Magpul Rail Light Mount, LEFT or RIGHT(Right) MAG498
- BCMGUNFIGHTER™ KAG - Black (M-LOK® Compatible*) Verticle Grip
- Magpul M-LOK® QD Sling Mount MAG606
- Magpul QDM - Quick Disconnect Swivel MAG543
- Magpul MS1® Sling MAG513
- Magpul MOE-K2+® Grip – AR15/M4 MAG532
- Magpul MOE SL® Carbine Stock – Mil-Spec MAG347
- Magpul QD Sling Swivel MAG540

Flashlight is a ThruNite Chargeable Flashlight TC12 V2 +3400*1 1100 Lumen
Scope is a Vortex Strike Eagle 1-6x24 with a Vortex Switchview Throw Lever
Mount is a Burris AR P.E.P.R. QD Scope mount, in case you want to go irons on the fly.

FYI, she's a pretty good shooter, here's my 50 yard zero.
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That's a very professional looking photo.
Did you paint the "fire" label in red? If so, how did you do it?
Do you recommend a magnifying scope like you have over a non magnifying one like the Sparc AR or Sparc Crossfire?
Why did you select that specific grip?
 
Chopping the front sight is very easy. A dremel with a metal cutting wheel can do a great job with it if you go carefully and slow. If you are going variable power optics I highly recommend it, as I find it annoying when zooming in. IMO chop the sight either way and then your only decision is the added complexity of free-floating the handguard. It is worth it.
 
RLJ said:
Chopping the front sight is very easy. A dremel with a metal cutting wheel can do a great job with it if you go carefully and slow. If you are going variable power optics I highly recommend it, as I find it annoying when zooming in. IMO chop the sight either way and then your only decision is the added complexity of free-floating the handguard. It is worth it.
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Depending on the scope mount, the front sight post does not get in the way as with the Burris P.E.P.R. Once beyond 2x it totally disappears.
 
Wester said:
Thanks, just in case the FEDs make me give it back, I wanted a nice portrait of her, it WS fun shooting it, digitally. ;)

I used model paint which is acrylic and a very fine, 00 or 000 brush. Did the SAFE in white and FIRE in red. You can mask off the area but acetone on a cotton swab or cloth will remove any mistakes.
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Will nail polish be a good choice? I just asked my wife for some red and white polish. She gave me the stink-eye.
 
I tried with some red nail polish and it didn't come out well at all, so I removed it.
I used white nail polish for the "Safe" label and it came out OK but the area around it shows some white smears.

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JoeShmow said:
I tried with some red nail polish and it didn't come out well at all, so I removed it.
I used white nail polish for the "Safe" label and it came out OK but the area around it shows some white smears.
Click to expand...

Acetone will remove it, just swap out the swabs as they pick up residue. Careful to not oversaturate them, any overflow can sink into the paint and make it bleed. Take your time and use as many swabs as needed and just a little acetone.
 
I used acrylic paint from the dollar store for the "Fire" label. The white residue refuses to go away.
I decided to use paracord and my old army sling.

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