S&W #3 SA Parts pic request

H Wally

H Wally

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
193   0   0
Location
Canada/New Zealand
Got myself a "repair" S&W New model #3 today. Long and short of it is that this gun would have been mint condition.... if it hadn't been stored in a damp holster for most of its life. Consequently internally it's brand new, and many external surfaces are great... while other parts look like the end grain of a wood offcut.

It's also missing some pieces:

1) The ejector cam - all the parts that act within the hinge to push the star out. I know on the DA it's two separate pieces, but the only schematic I've found (uberti schofield replica) has it as 1 piece.

2) The wedge and spring that tension the latch that holds the frame closed.

Can anyone out there provide me with the real names of these parts so I can put up a WTB ad that actually makes sense? :p

If anyone has a new model #3, would you mind posting photos of those three parts, maybe on graph paper for a size comparison? I may be a
able to make them if I have something for reference. As it stands I'm not even sure what they look like, since I can't find pictures online.



Also - how abouts does one disassemble the cylinder/ejection system in this gun? I can see that there ratchet is screwed in place with a two whole setup that requires a special two pronged wrench or driver.... I'm guessing that has to be undone first to remove the rest of the assembly?
 
The book tilted 'Gunsmithing Guns of the Old West' by David Chicoinne has some real good info on the Smith # 3's,...........unfortunetly my book is not home as I just loaned it to my gunsmith this morning.
 
The s&w ejector system changed thru each model. The new model system is a progression improvement of the American thru the Russians. It can be clearly seen thru the shortening of the barrel lug. The schofield ejection system was not used by s&w because they would have had to pay patent rights to schofield.
 
Hello Here is a diagram of your gun.

44da.jpg


The parts you want is 298 ( barrel catch cam) 303 (barrel catch cam spring)

For the cylinder ejector: 300 ( extractor) , 301 (extractor spring), 307a (extractor rod).

Note this website is your best bet for parts: http://www.oldwestgunsmith.com/

He will ship to Canada, most other will not.

Parts are very hard to find for this gun, good luck in your search.


Hope this helps


H Wally said:
Got myself a "repair" S&W New model #3 today. Long and short of it is that this gun would have been mint condition.... if it hadn't been stored in a damp holster for most of its life. Consequently internally it's brand new, and many external surfaces are great... while other parts look like the end grain of a wood offcut.

It's also missing some pieces:

1) The ejector cam - all the parts that act within the hinge to push the star out. I know on the DA it's two separate pieces, but the only schematic I've found (uberti schofield replica) has it as 1 piece.

2) The wedge and spring that tension the latch that holds the frame closed.

Can anyone out there provide me with the real names of these parts so I can put up a WTB ad that actually makes sense? :p

If anyone has a new model #3, would you mind posting photos of those three parts, maybe on graph paper for a size comparison? I may be a
able to make them if I have something for reference. As it stands I'm not even sure what they look like, since I can't find pictures online.



Also - how abouts does one disassemble the cylinder/ejection system in this gun? I can see that there ratchet is screwed in place with a two whole setup that requires a special two pronged wrench or driver.... I'm guessing that has to be undone first to remove the rest of the assembly?
Click to expand...
 
Thanks! That definitely helps. Looks like the ejector cam is close enough that I can make a rough copy from a #3 DA and then fit from there.

Looking at my gun I'm not sure if some buggery was done with the barrel catch. Definitely it was abused once, looks like when it was cleaned, because the action was likely rusted shut and the "cleaner" used force instead of penetrating oil to break it free.

Anyways, thanks again guys!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom