S&W M&P 9 2.0. Questions

I recently purchased the version 2.0.

I like it.

Here's a post about my first thirty round. (See number 25)
https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/for...ned-a-clup?p=14360241&viewfull=1#post14360241

Allegedly the 2.0 has a better trigger and better/different grip texture, different barrel twist rate. Nothing you can't change with aftermarket parts. Never shot the gen1, but this one is good in my hand. I prefer it over the sfp9, fns9, Glock 17, 19 (don't like finger grooves) and also the p320. Doesn't compare to a CZ SP-01 or Shadow 2, but neither does the price.

Never tried the Walther PPQ M2, I'd love to.

I'd try something different altogether. Maybe you'll enjoy the sfp9, it seems to be very popular.

My two cents.
 
Hmmmmm,I used to run Glock 17’s but switched to the M&P for two reasons,..the pistol grip was a better fit,and the ease of switching the mag release as I shoot left,and the M&P is a lot better...guess I should have mentioned that as an ambidextrous pistol is what I need...I really like the pistol,not sure what gen it is,but she has new sights and the Apex trigger kit...
 
A few things:

If you use a soldering iron, you can make your own grip stippling on either a 1.0 or 2.0, that is IMO better than the out of box 2.0 . I have a bone stock 1.0, and a another 1.0 that features stippling and a cerakoted
slide (which is easier to get a solid grip for cocking the slide. Is the cerakote worth the extra price? Maybe not but it is a slight noticeable improvement. The stippling though, thats a major improvement.

Second, while 2.0 has a better trigger, its not all that much better. Got a Apex kit for it, the Duty version, but not yet tried out.

There is also the Burwell trigger job. A gunsmith published a .PDF file of about 50 pages, on several different things you can do at home to improve and lighten the trigger on the M&P. There are even instructions for shortening overtravel and reset too. He has dissassembly instructions, and has instructions for 6lb, under 5lb, and even 2.75lb trigger pulls. And then reassembly is covered too.

I personally don't think its worth swapping from a 1.0 to a 2.0, there's not enough difference to bother with if you already have a 1.0. But if you don't have one and wish to buy brand new, sure go 2.0. Or, save a few bucks and buy a used 1.0 range kit off the EE, stipple the grip yourself, and download the Burwell instructions. Or buy an Apex kit if truly don't care for those prices.

Finally, I had been using the finger pad for trigger, but the last two times at the range I tried using the old "double action revolver" technique by putting the trigger right between the bones, right inside the joint. Suddenly my group sizes shrunk 30% just like that, on a stock 1.0 trigger. No I'm no pistolero expert, but something to try out. I think this provides more strength to pull that trigger, in effect making it like it was lighter and smoother than it actually is. Sorta, maybe.

Just do a search for Burwell M&P and one of the links will be to his .pdf at his website. Soon I will try it out!
 
RickR1100 said:
Just do a search for Burwell M&P and one of the links will be to his .pdf at his website. Soon I will try it out!
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Wow! Thanks for the info. His notes are excellent. I have a 2.0 and seem to shoot it well, by that I mean, I am satisfied for now. I have developed a slight flinch and am working to correct it now. Dry fire drills, snap caps mix with live rounds, etc. It's going well.

All that to say, I am happy with my 2.0.
 
Even for current owners of a 1.0, going to the 2.0 is a no brainer by the time you factor in the cost of a professional stipple job and an Apex trigger upgrade. Pretty easy to blow $600 (pretty much what brand new 2.0s are going for) on both of these by the time the dust settles. You'll also add a couple mags (worth $100) and have backwards compatibility with holsters and mag pouches.

Unless you're gonna keep the 1.0 bone stock (or can perform the mods yourself without any aftermarket parts), the 2.0 makes a ton of sense.
 
I think if I was to upgrade from the M&P first gen, it would be to one of these instead of the same pistol with minimal changes...
TP9-SFx-details-e1499788240693.png
 
I own a late model M&P9 and everything I have seen form very experienced shooters state the "slide lock" is exactly that a lock, it is not designed as a "slide release". The new 2.0 lets one release the slide without having to pull back on the slide as with the 1.0. However, I would also suggest, this is not a good way to do so.

There are lots of references which claim large muscle movements vs small muscle movements under stress are more predictive and functionally superior. The overhand grip method uses large muscle groups and is also directly related to functionally clearing a number of malfunctions. Muscle memory and training suggest this is the preferred method to strip a round off a magazine vs using a slide release. YMMV but there are countless experienced shooters that say the overhand grip method is superior and trains one for clearing jams.

 
Wester said:
I own a late model M&P9 and everything I have seen form very experienced shooters state the "slide lock" is exactly that a lock, it is not designed as a "slide release". The new 2.0 lets one release the slide without having to pull back on the slide as with the 1.0. However, I would also suggest, this is not a good way to do so.

There are lots of references which claim large muscle movements vs small muscle movements under stress are more predictive and functionally superior. The overhand grip method uses large muscle groups and is also directly related to functionally clearing a number of malfunctions. Muscle memory and training suggest this is the preferred method to strip a round off a magazine vs using a slide release. YMMV but there are countless experienced shooters that say the overhand grip method is superior and trains one for clearing jams.
Click to expand...

f:P:2:
 
Wester said:
I own a late model M&P9 and everything I have seen form very experienced shooters state the "slide lock" is exactly that a lock, it is not designed as a "slide release". The new 2.0 lets one release the slide without having to pull back on the slide as with the 1.0. However, I would also suggest, this is not a good way to do so.

There are lots of references which claim large muscle movements vs small muscle movements under stress are more predictive and functionally superior. The overhand grip method uses large muscle groups and is also directly related to functionally clearing a number of malfunctions. Muscle memory and training suggest this is the preferred method to strip a round off a magazine vs using a slide release. YMMV but there are countless experienced shooters that say the overhand grip method is superior and trains one for clearing jams.

Click to expand...

Wester Bob Vogel a past IPSC World/IDPA Champion teaches to use the slide release as it is faster and frankly safer. The folks who preach the overhand or slingshot release are usually Glock shooters who use a gun with small slide lock/release levers. The lever is designed to release the slide on most pistols. Use it or not just don't preach that the lever is somehow not designed to do exactly what it is designed for on pistols. If you can't use your small motor skills under stress how on earth do you think the trigger gets pulled or the mag release is used. Clearing jams is one thing releasing the slide from slide lock after a reload are two different things. Go to an IPSC or IDPA match on the weekend and you will see the small motor skills being used under pressure repeatedly.

I would suggest you are wrong in your conclusion.

Take Care

Bob
 
Bob,
We’ve had the slide stop vs. slingshot debate here multiple times. I do the overhand method as a matter of training and its instinctive now. However, having read your take on it and watching numerous videos on it, i started experimenting using the release. The key problem with the overhand is it’s slower and it’s also slower to re-acquire the front sight and the shooting grip.

I have to say it is quite easy and intuitive to do it. You are right about Glock shooters doing the overhand. I find the same with SIG shooters. I frequently don’t get slide lock on empty as my right thumb sits on the slide stop so the overhand rack is necessary.

But I side with you about the small vs big muscle argument. If one can hit the mag release under pressure, one can also hit the slide stop. It comes down to training. Hitting the slide stop is easy, even under pressure, if you practice it enough.

I believe that one should at least know and understand both techniques. Each has its pros and cons.
 
Still Alive - you nailed it. On some of my pistols I have reversed the mag release as well - I am right handed. The M&P's and CZ's I own all have the mag release reversed for the same reason. Just faster to reacquire the target for me. Guys with longer thumbs probably would not make the change and I am sort of in the middle ground. The way my Walther sits in my hand using the medium grip I find it slightly easier to leave the mag release on the left side. The angle, when I reverse the release is just not right. The large grip works ok but leaves my trigger finger just a bit short of where I want it to be when firing. You would not think it makes a difference but the targets don't lie.

Merry Christmas

Bob
 
Canuck44 said:
Still Alive - you nailed it. On some of my pistols I have reversed the mag release as well - I am right handed. The M&P's and CZ's I own all have the mag release reversed for the same reason. Just faster to reacquire the target for me. Guys with longer thumbs probably would not make the change and I am sort of in the middle ground. The way my Walther sits in my hand using the medium grip I find it slightly easier to leave the mag release on the left side. The angle, when I reverse the release is just not right. The large grip works ok but leaves my trigger finger just a bit short of where I want it to be when firing. You would not think it makes a difference but the targets don't lie.

Merry Christmas

Bob
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Thanks Bob,
I would caution against switching some of the mag releases. If you do it for all your guns, that's fine. Then it is consistent. I guess I'm lucky in that no gun has been a problem for me so far. I'm not a big proponent of having some things different than others. One might find oneself fumbling for the mag catch, under pressure, on the wrong side. But if you train consistently and know your guns, then it may not be a problem. But if you had to use someone else's gun in a match, you may end up fumbling for a safety that's on the wrong side. An unlikely scenario, true, but it may happen.

You are a squared away shooter so it is fine for you but I would not recommend this for new shooters until they are really familiar with their firearm.

And a Merry and Safe Christmas to you and yours also!
 
Morning Still Alive. I do think any shooter, if he can, make the switch IF he intends to use it all the time AND it is easier or faster for him. I am talking about competition shooters now where speed is important. I have been [playing with my guns for so long now it really doesn't make any difference to me. I just note which side it is on and go from there. I have a couple of guns where it makes quite a difference - the M&P and CZ in my reloading times and it is consistent. My skill leveled off quite sometime ago and, unlike wine it doesn't seem to improve with age no matter how improved the next ray gun is over the last. :>) Other than those two platforms I don't get to excited about changing from the left side release. For most though I agree either have the release on the right or left side for all your guns.

Take Care

Bob
 
Canuck44 said:
Morning Still Alive. I do think any shooter, if he can, make the switch IF he intends to use it all the time AND it is easier or faster for him. I am talking about competition shooters now where speed is important. I have been [playing with my guns for so long now it really doesn't make any difference to me. I just note which side it is on and go from there. I have a couple of guns where it makes quite a difference - the M&P and CZ in my reloading times and it is consistent. My skill leveled off quite sometime ago and, unlike wine it doesn't seem to improve with age no matter how improved the next ray gun is over the last. :>) Other than those two platforms I don't get to excited about changing from the left side release. For most though I agree either have the release on the right or left side for all your guns.

Take Care

Bob
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I believe we are of like minds on the subject then! I am like you. Being around handguns for so long, nothing worries me about them. If a safety is not where it should be, I know where to look for it next. Same for slide stops and mag releases. Sounds like we have both plateaued in our skills though. My eyesight is my primary hindrance.

Cheers!
 
1) Thanks Bob for your comments about the slide and ejection issues. Total noob, haven’t been to the range yet, but it’s great to hear different opinions for the guys that have been around the block. I’m not saying I agree with you :d I’m still too blinded by ignorance to have an opinion either way, but I appreciate the input on this thread. You and others.

2) A more general M&P question. Are parts interchangeable between the M&P 2.0 and the previous generation? More specifically, how much overlap is there between the M&P9 2.0 and the M&P (1) in .22? Obviously the frame and slide are different. And the barrel. And the magazine. So the answer seems to be either none or very few. But I’m wondering if I had a M&P 2.0 in 9 and in .22 (though the 2.0 doesn’t appear to come in .22) there would be overlap for spare parts? With the 9mm in v2 and the .22 in v1 less so, obviously. I know there is a rifle built on the M&P9 platform too right?

If I had the v1 M&P pistol in 9 and .22 -and- and M&P rifle would I be able to interchange parts?
 
PizaEater As far as I know, and I could well be wrong the M&P .22 version is made by Walther in Germany under contract and license from S&W. It is not made by S&W. While it looks like a M&P the two guns have nothing in common beyond looks. Wit the exception of the .22 Kit for CZ pistols, I have never been a fan of .22 pistols patterned off of center fired designs. If you want a .22 buy a dedicated .22 like the Browning Buckmark or the Ruger. Both are excellent .22 pistols. Nor do I believe beyond use as an introductory handgun practicing with a .22 helps much in shooting center fired pistols. You can develop and ingrain some pretty bad habits shooting a .22 where you don't have to deal with the effect of recoil. Just my opinion and I am sure others feel differently.

Take Care

Bob
 
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