S&W revolver question

skookumchuck

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Hi all,
opened up my Model 28 Highway Patrolman and discovered that there is no hammer block in the gun. The side plate is grooved for it and the rebound slide has the pin to accept it. Is it a problem shooting it without one? Also noticed that there is some evidence of rust in behind the cylinder stop. I'd like to get the specialized tool for removing and replacing the rebound slide before taking it apart that far. Does anyone know where I might find such a tool and a hammer block and cylinder stop?
 
You don't need a special tool. Lot's of vids on youtube showing how to take it out. It's not hard. If you want to make a tool, one can be easily fab'd up from a screw driver with the appropriate sized shank.

The parts, hmmm...brownells or numrich arms will be your best bet. Wortners gun works in Chattam ON is the warranty center (i don't think that's changed) and they should be able to sell them to you as well.
Im not sure how your able to fire without the transfer bar...i'd look and see if someone has also modified the hammer face.

FWIW, it's not a hammer block (unless i'm misinterpreting what your describing, ) it's a transfer bar, to transfer the force of the hammer to the floating firing pin in the breech face. And it shouldn't fire at all if it's not there.....hmmm, never tried it, maybe with the bar removed it lets the hammer come farther forward. Either way, i'd get it replaced
 
S&Ws have a hammer block; it stops the hammer moving all they way forward unless the trigger is pulled. Rugers have a transfer bar that rises up between the hammer and firing pin to transfer momentum from the hammer to the firing pin.

Without the hammer block, your S&W is functionally equivalent to those made before about 1943. The block does provide an extra degree of drop safety compared with the rebounding hammer alone and does not have any real downside.

Brownells has the tool for the rebound slide. All you need is a screwdriver to get it off. A Swiss army knife bottle opener can push the spring back in in a pinch, but the tool is worth buying compared to the hassle of making one yourself.
 
You don't need a special tool. Lot's of vids on youtube showing how to take it out. It's not hard. If you want to make a tool, one can be easily fab'd up from a screw driver with the appropriate sized shank.

The parts, hmmm...brownells or numrich arms will be your best bet. Wortners gun works in Chattam ON is the warranty center (i don't think that's changed) and they should be able to sell them to you as well.
Im not sure how your able to fire without the transfer bar...i'd look and see if someone has also modified the hammer face.

FWIW, it's not a hammer block (unless i'm misinterpreting what your describing, ) it's a transfer bar, to transfer the force of the hammer to the floating firing pin in the breech face. And it shouldn't fire at all if it's not there.....hmmm, never tried it, maybe with the bar removed it lets the hammer come farther forward. Either way, i'd get it replaced

Sorry but you are wrong.

This is not a transfer bar.

It is a hammer block safety and is sometimes removed when doing a trigger job.

I never bother taking it out as I think it makes the gun relatively 'drop safe' and I don't think it affect the trigger pull all that much.

John
 
Sorry but you are wrong.

This is not a transfer bar.

It is a hammer block safety and is sometimes removed when doing a trigger job.

I never bother taking it out as I think it makes the gun relatively 'drop safe' and I don't think it affect the trigger pull all that much.

John

No problem, i've been wrong before, i'll be wrong again. :) thanks for the clarification, i'm always open to learning. No need to be sorry either, my thanks!
 
Just to add some useless info to the thread:

If it has a Hammer-mounted firing pin, it is a Hammer Block safety.
If it has a Frame-mounted firing pin, it is a transfer bar safety.

Thought I would throw it out there-- Kind of a magazine/clip thing.
 
Forty years ago it was common for the hammer block safety wire to be taken out of target revolvers to speed up lock time. For some people the millisecond faster time was important. Really you need to be superman to detect it.
 
Just to add some useless info to the thread:

If it has a Hammer-mounted firing pin, it is a Hammer Block safety.
If it has a Frame-mounted firing pin, it is a transfer bar safety.

Thought I would throw it out there-- Kind of a magazine/clip thing.

S&Ws in many cases have both a hammer block and a firing pin in the frame. The .22 rimfire ones have always been this way and everything else has been since 1999.
 
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