sabbots on .45 auto casings.

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Let me know what you think of the following.

My buddies father has a bunch of "sabots" lying around. We (yes I am taking credit for at least a portion of this, laugh if you want) decided to caliper the bullet and see how large the bullet itself was ( not including plastic bit which I have no idea what it does ) and it came out to a solid .451". Realizing that any .45 auto bullet is .451", we decided to pull the 230 grain FMJ bullet out of 15 CCI Blazer aluminum casing's and than press the sabot back onto the casing. Please note that the original primer and powder stayed in the casing.

After we stopped laughing at what we had created, I tired to load a Ruger P345 .45 magazine and cycle them through the gun, which they did just fine.

I did not have the balls to actually pull the trigger with one in the chamber until I did some more research on what might happen and got some opinions.

Note: they loaded fine, other than the stupid "ballistic tip" was a pain in the ass because it kept on sliding. The sabots themselves are Thompson/Center Shockwave bonded sabots, .50 cal, 250 grain, spire point.

Let me know what you think.

Thanks,
Reece
 
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Shooting a heavier bullet with the powder charge for a lighter bullet will raise your pressures. You are using a Blazer case made of aluminum which I believe is not as strong as brass which with the higher pressures MAY cause a case rupture. The Idea is interesting, but I would use a brass case, and a powder charge for the 250 grain bullet. Good Luck.
 
BEARMAN said:
Shooting a heavier bullet with the powder charge for a lighter bullet will raise your pressures. You are using a Blazer case made of aluminum which I believe is not as strong as brass which with the higher pressures MAY cause a case rupture. The Idea is interesting, but I would use a brass case, and a powder charge for the 250 grain bullet. Good Luck.
Click to expand...

+1

Also, we need pictures.
 
Thanks.

I can't do the pictures because I have no website to upload them to. Its hard to explain what these look like.

All technical aspects aside, they are pretty cool looking. Like an incredibly small rifle 45-70 rifle round.

You'd really have a hard time not laughing at them.
 
If you are in southern Alberta I would like to witness your test look at your data & help in any way I can (including personaly firing test loads in my gun). If not then you want to keep certain guidelines in mind you must know the wheight of your saboted projectile (including the sabot) this is your new bullet weight if it is more than the bullet you pulled it will cause an increase in chamber pressure when fired if it is lower a decrease. If there is an increase you should use data for the proper bullet weight. Also plastic sabots offer less internal friction than copper or lead, so even if the weight of projectiles are the same, as well all other components the sabot round will operate at slightly reduced pressure. could you tell us what make the sabots are where to puchase? And now to the disclaimer part, this information is not recognized reloading data & should not be used as such.
 
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Wish I could have made them bigger and some of them clearer, but this is the technology that I have to work with.

As you can see, I have not included the little plastic bit. I may have been referring to this incorectly as the sabot, when I should have been calling it the projectile.

In the first picture is the original 230 grain FMJ projectile. In the last couple is the sabbot projectile next to a 180 grain Federal Hydra-Shok.

Hope this helps.

AOWM: thanks for the offer but I think the only person who could help me when ( OR RATHER, IF ) we decide to fire these of is an ambulance with a Heli in it.
 
If you want to fire those 250gn bullets you will have to work up a load I suggest 5gn of AA#5 may be to light to funtion the gun but safe, work up from there.
 
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