Safety question.

diopter

diopter

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I was reading in the safety inspection part of the black Badge course that the gun should be tested as follows:

Safety on, press trigger, hammer should not follow. Ok so far on mine.
Release safety and hammer should not follow, mine goes to half ####.
It is an Inglis HP. Not listed in Production Guns.

Should I think of using another handgun?
 
If you WERE to use this pistol, you'd have to use it in Standard anyway (Production pistols have to be double-action first shot), but the hammer following down is a sign that you don't have enough sear enagagement, and the pistol is unsafe to use as-is. Someone has undoubtedly tried to do a super-professional "trigger-job" on your pistol, and it wil need to have it's hammer and/or sear replaced.
 
The Hi-Power is a standard class gun due to the single action trigger. It would need a double action first shot to be production.

As for your hammer falling when the safety is wiped off, you need a gunsmith asap.
 
Brain Fart

Does't the high power need the mag inserted for the hammer to fall?

The gun might be working as designed.


Ok maybe you should ask for your money back on my 2 cents worth
 
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Hammer falling to half #### apon swiping saftey off after the trigger has been pulled with safety on means the safety is not completely blocking the sear from moving when the trigger is pulled...this is very unsafe and it is possible for the hammer to fall completely and fire a round if the half #### wears a bit.

I recommend not using this gun untill the safety can be refitted...sometimes by welding it, sometimes by replacing the safety or sear or both..anyways not a job for an amateur so take it to a quailfied gunsmith ASAP.
 
Several people have said that the safety is not working properly. I totally agree. The hammer should not fall at all when the safety is released.
It needs to see a good gunsmith for repair.
 
Not a hard job for a careful owner. Strip the frame off. Remove the safety - throw away. Remove the hammer pin under control, disassemble the hammer and spring - throw away the hammer. Reassemble with help to get the pin back in.

Western Gun Parts (?) probably sells the two parts you need. While you have it apart, stone the SIDES of the moving parts to remove the rough Parkerized or Blued surfaces, just to speed things up.
 
maple_leaf_eh said:
Not a hard job for a careful owner. Strip the frame off. Remove the safety - throw away. Remove the hammer pin under control, disassemble the hammer and spring - throw away the hammer. Reassemble with help to get the pin back in.
Click to expand...

The last thing you should be doing is giving advice on what to change/not change with a safety issue like this.. For all you know it could be the SEAR which you failed to mention to throw away.. say this guy takes your advice. then takes it to the range and it goes FULL AUTO. Since the problem was the sear, and not the mating of the two surfaces are even worse..

Take the gun to a gun smith, and get them to look at it,. what you are seeing is the first step to going full auto. (Been there, done that)..
 
ckc123 said:
The last thing you should be doing is giving advice on what to change/not change with a safety issue like this.. For all you know it could be the SEAR which you failed to mention to throw away.. say this guy takes your advice. then takes it to the range and it goes FULL AUTO. Since the problem was the sear, and not the mating of the two surfaces are even worse..

Take the gun to a gun smith, and get them to look at it,. what you are seeing is the first step to going full auto. (Been there, done that)..
Click to expand...

Well, I did what I described to a HP and have fired many thousands of rounds since. Gunsmithing is not rocket surgery. Changing parts is not complicated.
 
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