Sako 75 bolt issues.

YukonBrett

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So, was given a Sako 75 SS as a gift about 7 years ago...didn't know much about rifles. Bolt always grabbed, rubbed got kind of stuck took a lot of force...put it in the closet and got a 700 XCR. Anyhow, came to realize the 75 is supposedly a great rifle, so I dug it out and am trying to determine what's wrong...wished I returned it right when I got it, but it's too late now. The bolt has chattering rub marks on it. It's almost like it's diameter is to large and it jams on itself while trying to cycle. Took it apart...can't see anything. Nearest gunsmith is a long way away. Thoughts??
 
Sorry .. I dont own a Sako 75 (eventually perhaps?) BUT have read on the web in a few places where folks have had problems with the "Key Concept" lock malfunctioning and causing stiff bolt issues .. (I have already told you everything I know about this subject ... and a little that I don't know - so take my comments/suggestions with several grains of salt!!!)
 
I have had no issues with any of my Sako m75ss or Greywolf rifles. My first was a 300WM back in 1997 and its still my main "GOTO" rifle today. Sako m75 rifles is all that I have in my gunsafe...Double Gun is almost the same way.

What caliber is your's with the issues? Might be as simple to call/email Stoeger Canada - they maybe able to get you a new bolt.
 
Sorry, which part is the ejector? Yeah...wish I had better luck with Sako...it's a 30 06. Called Stoeger...not much help. Only do warranty, otherwise good luck and call a gunsmith...
 
Ejector on a sako (older and newer models except I believe the "A7") is a flat blade that should rise up to project through a slot on the bolt face at the 6:00 oclock position. This blade is supposed to be spring loaded and free to move down when the bolt is closed on a round. If there is something fouling the blade it will bear against the bolt body when the action is closed and make turning the bolt hard ... the marks on the bolt body could be the ejector blade not operating properly due to several reasons ...something preventing it from being retracted (push down on it when you remove the bolt to test this) or possible bent preventing it from retracting...


(DoubleGun may have hit it on the nail!)


(edit to add .. it is very common to confuse the "extractor" and the "ejector" ... the "extractor" is the little hook like device on the bolt face that is intended to extract the fired case from the chamber when you withdraw the bolt...there is a small coil spring behind the extractor to ensure it has a good grip on the rim of the case in order to pull it.
The "ejector" on the other hand is the blade at the back of the action (in this case) that knocks the spent cartridge out of the action when the bolt is pulled fully to the rear smartly....this is possibly the source of the binding)
 
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Thanks a bunch for helping out everyone...this is very frustrating. So, the ejector seems to move up and down freely...bolt turns with relative ease. Rub/friction marks on bolt are aligned with ejector, and two others running the bolt length, at 10 and 2 seemingly from the bolt rubbing on the action. If I cycle the bolt hanging onto the bolt shroud and make an effort to keep it aligned it's petty good, but with the bolt handle the force not being exactly straight in makes it want to bind....Fack!
 
re Model 75 Sako
The two lugs that occupy the 4:30 and 7:30 positions when the action is unlocked have shallow grooves running lengthwise across their top surface which engage corresponding lobes projecting from the inner walls of the raceway.

The result is that this bolt has more lateral support than any other. That translates into an action that is smooth and difficult to bind in moments of stress.
I dont know if this helps but found it with Google "foo"
 
Nope, binds either and any way...it's like the bolt has too much play, nothing keeping it from getting jammed on the sides...if the pressure on the bolt isn't kept perfect, the side can jam to the point of stopping...anyone is really keen, I can email some pics...thanks again.
 
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