Sako 85 Finnlight or Sauer 101?

I have a Sako 85 SS, similar to the Finnlite, but prefer it over the Finnlite because it has a 22" barrel. I believe Finnlites are 20" but I could be wrong. The 85 SS are harder to get hold of, though. I opted for the Leoplod mounts but if I was to use Sako mounts I'd probably opt for the Sako Ringmounts over the Optilocks. It sports the Leupold VX3 3.5 -10 X 40. Great glass,,,,good in low light conditions. I like the objective of my scopes to be as close to the barrel as possible and the Leupold Sako mounts ( I believe they were mediums) worked well for that. I would had had to use the extra low in the Optilocks for the same result.

My rifle is a short action 7-08 and I've never had ejection issues. This is probably something you could test in the store because of the Sako safety ejection system,,,,the safety can be on while ejecting ammo. One thing about Sako is they're all tack drivers if you do your part and their action is about as smooth as it gets.

The finnlight and ss/synthetic barrels are the same length. The finnlight barrel is fluted, and the stock is soft-touch with rubberized textured panels.
 
I agree on the Leupold ring mounts, they get the scope down so you get a proper cheek weld. The only problem is that they are lower, so you get the ejected cartridge hitting the scope turret. I'm not saying all M action 85's have this problem, but mine does. And again, it only became a problem once I switched from Optilocks to Leupold ring mounts. My solution is to turn the scope 90 degrees. You may say that a rifle that costs this kind of money should not have this problem, and I would totally agree with you. My take on it is that Sako designed the rifle to work with their scope mounting system, and it does.

scope mounted 90 degrees


I have Leupold ring mounts on two Sako M-85's.

The screw that is used to clamp the mount to the dovetail on the action is torque sensitive.

Goot-n-tite will break that screw after repeated firings (9.3x66) as the dove tail slots are tapered.

Suggest ~20 inch/lbs for this and check torque occasionally there after.

I had to replace one set but it has been good ever since.
 
I have Optilock rings and bases set-up on most of my Sako m75 rifles except for 2 - I have the Optilock Ringmounts. This one below.....Low Ringmouts with Leupold VX III 3.5-10x40 scope on my m75 Greywolf 338-06AI. Built in summer of 2008. Sako just released the Ringmounts that year.

ae9sw6.jpg


As for slings, I like the Butler Creek-Highlander sling. They seem to last forever, easy on the shoulder. I still have the original one mounted on my Sako m75ss 300WM that I had ordered in new back in 1997. This has been and still is my main rifle that has been hunted with hard....no issues.
 
I bought and sold a Sako 85 Finnlite. Nothing but issues with ejection issues. I had sako optilocks (low) with a Leupold VX6 2-12x42. Virtually every shell casing hit the scope body, most of which fell right back into the magazine area. It actually caused visible damage on the scope. Personally having the ejector being the rear bridge of the action is a stupid design. I would NEVER buy another Sako with this same design again.

EDIT: 270WSM was the cartridge...rifle is long gone and I sure as heck don't regret it. Most frustrating factory rifle I have ever seen...for 2k. GARBAGE.
 
I bought and sold a Sako 85 Finnlite. Nothing but issues with ejection issues. I had sako optilocks (low) with a Leupold VX6 2-12x42. Virtually every shell casing hit the scope body, most of which fell right back into the magazine area. It actually caused visible damage on the scope. Personally having the ejector being the rear bridge of the action is a stupid design. I would NEVER buy another Sako with this same design again.

EDIT: 270WSM was the cartridge...rifle is long gone and I sure as heck don't regret it. Most frustrating factory rifle I have ever seen...for 2k. GARBAGE.

This type of report - which I have seen lots of - is the reason I haven't, and likely won't, buy a Sako 85. Would be a real kick in the junk to spend +$2k and have such issues. And then what, sell it to some guy and not tell them about the issue?
 
I bought and sold a Sako 85 Finnlite. Nothing but issues with ejection issues. I had sako optilocks (low) with a Leupold VX6 2-12x42. Virtually every shell casing hit the scope body, most of which fell right back into the magazine area. It actually caused visible damage on the scope. Personally having the ejector being the rear bridge of the action is a stupid design. I would NEVER buy another Sako with this same design again.

EDIT: 270WSM was the cartridge...rifle is long gone and I sure as heck don't regret it. Most frustrating factory rifle I have ever seen...for 2k. GARBAGE.

Weird. I wonder if its certain ring/scope combinations causing this problem? Like I say, we have 3 and zero issues. I wouldnt trade my sakos for anything :)
 
Thanks folks, please keep the input coming as I have a week or so before my local store puts these on a sale and I would snag one during the sale.

It seems like the only potential issue with the Sako 85 is the ejection issue, which seems to affect a small(ish) percentage of these guns. Otherwise, people really like it as some members have more than one.

Any Sauer 101 owners out there want to chime in with their input? Sauer doesn't seem as common as the Sako in households?
 
I haven't owned a Sauer 101, but a couple of things that jump out at me is the plastic magazine and the position of the forward sling stud. If you ever want the option of attaching a bipod, you'll need an adapter of sorts or drill a hole in the stock to attach a stud. Just something to consider. As for plastic, you can give it a fancy acronymous name, but it's still plastic, which feels cheap.

Check google for reviews on the Sauer, they're pretty common in the UK and other parts of Europe. Many opinions are that they sh+t the bed after production of the 80/90.

EDIT: Looks like some of the synthetic models don't have the forward stud.
 
I haven't owned a Sauer 101, but a couple of things that jump out at me is the plastic magazine and the position of the forward sling stud. If you ever want the option of attaching a bipod, you'll need an adapter of sorts or drill a hole in the stock to attach a stud. Just something to consider. As for plastic, you can give it a fancy acronymous name, but it's still plastic, which feels cheap.

Check google for reviews on the Sauer, they're pretty common in the UK and other parts of Europe. Many opinions are that they sh+t the bed after production of the 80/90.

EDIT: Looks like some of the synthetic models don't have the forward stud.

I remember looking at a Sauer 90 Stutzen in the late 1980s - $4000. In today's money that is about $7000 - and that wasn't even a fancy or high end version.
 
I remember looking at a Sauer 90 Stutzen in the late 1980s - $4000. In today's money that is about $7000 - and that wasn't even a fancy or high end version.

As I mentioned above, I shot a friends 202 outback in 270 win. Very sweet rifle.. After that I sourced one out at a local (over priced) gun shop and they were $3700.00. I would love one in my collection, but the savings has paid for fuel for many more hunts ;)
 
As I mentioned above, I shot a friends 202 outback in 270 win. Very sweet rifle.. After that I sourced one out at a local (over priced) gun shop and they were $3700.00. I would love one in my collection, but the savings has paid for fuel for many more hunts ;)

Sounds about right. In those days the 200 and later 202 were the entry level Sauer rifles and cost about 1/2 as much as a 90.
 
Based on the feedback here, I am leaning towards the Sako 85 Finnlight. Hopefully the one I get won't have the issue of ejected shells hitting the scope.

But doing research the last couple of weeks, I have another confusion that I would like input on. I was originally wanting to get 30-06, but now am wondering if I should go with 270 Win. instead? I don't want to open a can of worms with the "which is the best calibre" debate, but would appreciate if someone can provide input as to which might be a better calibre IN THIS PARTICULAR GUN (Sako 85 Finnlight).

This would be my only hunting rifle for now, and I would like to use it for white tail, mule deer, elk and moose (for the year that I get lucky with the LEH). I will be hunting in the BC woods and hills, so don't think the extended range benefit of the 270 applies to us here on the west coast, but am all ears to any feedback. Thanks.
 
Well...... I have one, but am by far not a 270 fan... I would go with 30-06 for sure given the choices.... Plus, if its going to be your go to gun, then 30-06. I have killed many deer, goat, moose, bear, elk with my 300 win too.... So give that a thought.... Good shot placement equals zero meat damage.... Recoil isnt much worse.
 
If there is a significant difference between the killing power/hunting suitability of the 270 and 30-06, the internet really hasn't managed to find it, agree on it, or reveal it to me.

165 grains *(0.277^2)/(0.308^2) = 133 grains
 
Thats interesting. I thought the 150 grain 270 is akin to the 130 grain 30-06, but maybe not.

And if I go with 30-06, then I would want to stick with one bullet weight, either the 165 or the 180, whichever one shoots better in the gun. But then again, I want to use the same one on deer and moose, so maybe 180 would be a better choice?
 
Personally I would look for a clean 'low mileage' Sako 75 Stainless Synthetic in 308W.
 
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