Sako finnlight 300wsm problem

zamstony

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Montreal
I was wondering what could cause this. I have a Sako finnlight in 300wsm set up with a swarovski 4x16x50 and its in a Caldwell Lead Sled and shooting Winchester 150gr xp3 while at the range at 300 yards I get strays in the top corner or bottom corner too often, the rifle never moves because after these shots it goes back to the grouping in the black........ it has me stumped.
maybe I should start reloading? or bed the barrel? any suggestions
 
Iam sure you will be told to stop using the sled,before you have nothing but toothpics left.That will be the reason for the stray shots as well.
 
Groups are about 1.5 inches in the black at 1/2 inch above 0 and strays are 6-8 inches over 0 and 6-8 inches under 0

So, it sounds like the distance from you highest shot to your lowest shot is about 16"?? If that is correct you have some work to do. Be sure to tighten all screws on rifle, rings, bases etc. Then try some different brands of ammo. Groups of 3 shots should consistently measure from 3" to 5", if not take your rifle to a competent gunsmith to check for bedding issues etc.
 
I know I have seen strays from barrel heat. Without the sled, at 100 yards, I would start and fire 3-5 shots. Let the barrel cool right down. The shoot another 3-5 shots. let the barrel cool and do the same out at 200 yards...etc. You can use a front and rear bag rest or similar, I have just heard a lot of negative about those sleds. Take your time shooting. A slight movement will produce a big stray at 300 yards. I don't think you will get strays but if so it might be the ammo. Look at the speed and maybe try something a little slower. My Tikka does not do well with my loads if they are really fast.

I just can't see this being the gun. Those guns are good shooters.
 
If this was my rig, I would:
-remove scope, rings, and bases... put nail polish on base screws and torque them all in equally.
- set scope and do the same with the ring screws and base screws.
-Take stock off gun and flip that silly recoil lug over. I would bet it is 'peened' giving some slop. Altho I wont tell you to do it, I had a stronger larger one made and bedded it. I happily threw out the POS factory lug after this.
-torque action screws (with nail polish) to 45pounds.

Shoot and see what happens! You could try a box of 180grners and see if your gun likes those - you should be well under an inch.

Good luck and keep us posted!
C
 
Thanks I checked out your post on the work you did , thats an amazing job I will definitely try it it looks simple enough and thanks again you saved me alot of time
 
Why would you use nail polish when there is a plethora of proper thread locking compounds out there to do the job correctly. Pretty backyardish in my opinion.

Single flyers and then back to grouping is not usually a rifle problem, usually a change of hold or problem bullets. The lead sled is a great shooting devise just don't use the strap behind the recoil pad. I have attained some great groups with my sled, don't think it is the issue.
I would suspect you are not getting a consistent hold, with all the same pressures at all the same points as you shoot. Firmer grip shoots lower, lighter grip shoots higher, see it all the time at the range. Bad bullets tend to go everywhere and don't do anything consistently, like I said up and down flyers are almost always a shooting form problem.
 
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