Sandblasted Stag 10 Reciever?

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T-BO

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So I'm new to working with AR platform rifles but have just picked up a cerakoted stag 10 receiver set and am working on my first build.

The internals, where the bolt will ride, on the cerakoted receiver has a sandblasted texture and not much of any coating on it.

Is this going to be a problem or will things smooth out with some bolt cycling?

Thanks for the advice!
 
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Well I will pitch in a few thoughts.

I don't know who did this job, but the inside of the receiver should never have been touched by sand blasting material. The cerokote should have been applied strictly to the outside.

If you can take it back you should IMHO.

But what's done is done, and it really shouldn't effect the function at all. Just poor workmanship.

In my line of work I've seen AR's beat to sh#t that still work fine
 
Don't worry about it, the coating isn't that thick and there are plenty of wiggle room between your BCG and the upper, just keep it lubed.
 
When you zoom in closely on the pics the shiny flecks are raw aluminum exposed from sandblasting and didn't get covered by the coating. It has a very fine texture, like 750 grit sandpaper.
 
It is one of the "blem" sets Arms East had on sale a couple of weeks ago?
As long as you keep it lubed up, once you fire about fifty rounds the oil mixed with the carbon will keep it nice and slick, like I have said there are lot of wiggle room between the BCG and the upper, so you don't have to worry about any "sanding" action.

I have a couple of rifles the inside of the magwell has worn down to the bare metal from mags being inserted thousands of times, there some spots inside the upper the finish is a bit thin but it still works fine, I figure it still good another 10,000 rounds or so.
 
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I learned my lesson with my AR build. I to got some coating inside, and had to gently sand it a little; and even then the barrel was a very tight fit.
 
T-BO said:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/TZgayCXzRrjzKtTt6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/fa1dykvu321d6d9Q6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/UwYMcsinUXvZxb5K8

See if these work..
Click to expand...

Some observations:

-Hard coat anodizing is done to darken the aluminum and give the surface more wear resistance.
-To ceracoat, the anodizing is blasted off with media because ceracoat accomplishes the same thing as anodizing. They are alternate ways of doing the same thing - preventing the steel bolt from galliing soft aluminum and giving exposed surfaces an appealing finish - moreso than raw aluminum.
-The mouth of the receiver you show is not a wearing surface. Your barrel stub will sit stationary there and you won;t even see that surface ever again once the rifle is assembled.
-The overspray inside the receiver looks bad, but it's clear the anodizing is intact under that surface from your photos. I don't see any silver metal. Basically, the parts where your bolt carrier contact the upper will wear smooth after your first mag and it will be a non-issue from a function perspective.
-It would have been nice (aesthetically) if they had either uniformly sprayed the interior, or if they had masked it off and not sprayed it at all. Cosmetic, but speaks to a rushed job.
 
^^^ so these are the blems then? ^^^

In that case, you must've known you be getting a surprise.

Like I previously stated. These AR's work pretty much no matter what. Go put it together and shoot it. See if it works.

Stick with tried and proven combinations, that are known to work. Ar10's can be finicky with there setup and functionality, this is why I just purchased a stag 10 G.I model.

If it doesn't work at first, dont let the receiver be the first thing in your mind as to why it is. Usually it's to much gas, or not enough. Try different ammo first, then try different recoil buffer weights.

Stay away from adjustable gas blocks. They cause headaches unless you have too much t
Me on your hands.
 
Thanks for the input!

I'm most likely worried about something that's going to be a non issue. It's going to be assembled with medium to high end parts before long here. I'll throw pics of the build up once it's done and report back.
 
I specifically asked this question in his post in the dealer forum. He said cerakote over the anodized surface.... I thought I could spot bare metal in his pics so I kinda assumed that was BS, and bought a regular one from another vendor.
 
It is one of my pet peeves to see a perfectly anodized part ruined by sand blasting. The media is too aggressive and even at lower pressure will eat away the anodizing and create uneven surfaces and gouging.

There are other non damaging ways to blast off the oils in a receiver and aluminum oxide is not it. Baking soda followed by a good acetone cleaning should do.

If you are worried about not having enough bite in the surface worry not, the anodized surface is perfectly acceptable and suitable as a paint prep surface as it is rough/porous enough.

That being said I don't think you need to worry too much about the receiver, but if it bothers you that there is exposed metal have it blasted off with baking soda and re ceerakote the whole thing again. Keep the anodizing in tact.


My 2cents
 
Big JD-From the hills said:
I specifically asked this question in his post in the dealer forum. He said cerakote over the anodized surface.... I thought I could spot bare metal in his pics so I kinda assumed that was BS, and bought a regular one from another vendor.
Click to expand...

Then you kinda assumed wrong. You can see the anodizing under the cerakote on the internals. These were sold as cosmetic blems, because they were cosmetic blems. At $699 the cerakoting or the handguards were basically free.
 
The bolt carrier is harder than the Cerakote and the receiver. It will carve its own path through any imperfections. Lube it and shoot it, you'll be fine.
 
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