Sandblasting and Parkerizing

Did the mang park end up closer to black than gray? I've read it depends on how long you leave it in the solution and the carbon content of the host steel. The videos I've watched show the solution bubbling off of the steel then stop after a certain amount of time so I guess once the reaction stops, it's not going to get any darker.
 
The commercial manganese parkerizing solution ended up pretty close to black on the Norinco I did, that's the two tone pistol I posted first. The finish does depend on what kind of steel though, I made a small muzzle brake from drill rod that ended up a very dark grey, and something I made from a mystery steel ended up a fairly light grey. That may have been some sort of stainless though, based on the chips that came off and the way it cut on the lathe, but it was magnetic. Maybe it was 416?
Kristian
 
The commercial manganese parkerizing solution ended up pretty close to black on the Norinco I did, that's the two tone pistol I posted first. The finish does depend on what kind of steel though, I made a small muzzle brake from drill rod that ended up a very dark grey, and something I made from a mystery steel ended up a fairly light grey. That may have been some sort of stainless though, based on the chips that came off and the way it cut on the lathe, but it was magnetic. Maybe it was 416?
Kristian

I think it depends on the carbon content.

Find some #6 glass bead. Not crushed glass

What grit would that be? This stuff looks to be available locally, it's 50-80. PA Glass Bead
 
What grit would that be? This stuff looks to be available locally, it's 50-80. PA Glass Bead[/QUOTE]

#6 glass bead is typically 50-70 mesh. #7 is 60-80 mesh. Either will give a nice matt finish. Ask if it's crushed glass, which gives a rougher sharper finish, not ideal
 
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