Savage 10 /smooth barrel nut removal?

Johnn Peterson said:
:redface: I should've clarified, the nut on my 112 is actually slotted but I was just wondering :confused: why the use of a nut for assembly, especially if it is actually a separate component from the barrel itself.
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I guess at the factory level it allows for easy headspacing and then the barrel is stamped after the barrel is set and the nut tight...

After it leaves the factory it somewhat allows the owner to change pre threaded and chambered barrels... it is supposed to be easy but sometimes requires 3 tools - a barrel wrench, and action wrench and a nut wrench... while a normal shouldered threaded and chambered barrel only requires a barrel wrench and an action wrench.
 
guntech said:
I guess at the factory level it allows for easy headspacing and then the barrel is stamped after the barrel is set and the nut tight...

After it leaves the factory it somewhat allows the owner to change pre threaded and chambered barrels... it is supposed to be easy but sometimes requires 3 tools - a barrel wrench, and action wrench and a nut wrench... while a normal shouldered threaded and chambered barrel only requires a barrel wrench and an action wrench.
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Thanks Dennis, for the explanation and clarification. ;) I'm a far cry from having any gunsmithing skills but I was on the tools in a heavy mechanical trade for much of my time working in industry. I guess the main thing I'm trying to understand in this case, is :confused: what actually locates and locks the barrel in a specific position or location?? Is there a taper or some other feature along that line employed??
 
Johnn Peterson said:
Thanks Dennis, for the explanation and clarification. ;) I'm a far cry from having any gunsmithing skills but I was on the tools in a heavy mechanical trade for much of my time working in industry. I guess the main thing I'm trying to understand in this case, is :confused: what actually locates and locks the barrel in a specific position or location?? Is there a taper or some other feature along that line employed??
Click to expand...

To locate the barrel in the correct position for headspace, a go gauge needs to be in the chamber with the bolt in the closed position and the barrel tightened up enough so the gauge just lets the bolt close. Then when you replace the go gauge with a no go gauge the bolt should not close.

You want this configuration when the nut is tight against the action.
 
guntech said:
To locate the barrel in the correct position for headspace, a go gauge needs to be in the chamber with the bolt in the closed position and the barrel tightened up enough so the gauge just lets the bolt close. Then when you replace the go gauge with a no go gauge the bolt should not close.

You want this configuration when the nut is tight against the action.
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Again, thanks Dennis. ;) The fog is starting to clear :) . A couple of gents I know locally are involved in gunsmithing and I think to :redface: clear the fog that remains, I'll see if they'll give me a shout in future when they're involved with that actual process on a Savage.
 
warrenb said:
Smooth barrel nuts and Bottom bolt release. Savage Why?
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The try and appease critics and appeal to Rem 700 users.... but I think the real reason was to make it more difficult for DIY barrel swaps.

All the barrel nuts on actions I have played with in the last decade use the same side of the nut wrench... so I would say that it is standardised. Large and standard shank nuts use the same side of the nut wrench.

The smooth nut is a PITA and destruction is not a bad idea. Slotted nuts are possible and that just makes life so much easier for the DIY shooter.

The last smooth nut I took off I clamped onto it with an action wrench (Rem, Savage dimension) and it came off without much fuss... except for all the blasting media left under the nut.

Savage is certainly trying to make it less appealing to play with their actions these days... pity.

Jerry
 
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