Savage 10TR le/military

Michael Dempster said:
That totally blows man, and I feel for you. I really hope you get it sorted out and end up enjoying this rifle to it's full capabilities. I'm a crappy shot, with no skill whatsoever and I give full credit to the rifle in getting those sub MOA groups. It almost feels like cheating, lol!

You'll love it when Savage makes it right for you :)
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Hope so, cause I bought a FCP-HS .338LM 6 weeks ago to go long with the both of them this year and next!����
 
I have the choice to buy one online from a CGN dealer, delivered to my house, or buy one in a gun shop 1:30 hour away from home for 25$ more, but seeing that some are A1 and others are lemons, I might take the $ hit and go get one in person to visually inspect it.

... Unless you tell me there is no way to know visually and I will only know after I shoot it.

One thing I can do without shooting it though is to remove the scope rail while I'm at the store, if it's stuck there or the threads are stripped, I'll know to get the next one!
 
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I had my 10TR out to 1050y this weekend.

I learned a whole bunch! Previous to this I have pretty much been limited to 200 & 300y.

I discovered that my hand loads are only "good" to 800y. The 168SMKs that I loaded were a bit anemic at 2450fps and were dropping below the sound barrier somewhere between 800&900 y and we were unable to keep track of them after that. I also found that the Hornady 168 BTHP match ammo was a bit inconsistent out past 600y. I found that my rifle really likes 168gr A-max super performance match ammo. With that I was getting reliable repeatable hits 600-800 y and I was just starting to hit at 1000 when the wind picked up and started gusting!

I have a FFP 5-25x50 MRAD-MRAD scope and found that I was only able to dial in come ups out to 800. After that it was hold overs, at 1000 of 4 MRAD..... But I have 10 MRAD of adjustment below my zero.

So now I'm looking for a 20 or preferably 30 MOA rail and chomping at the bit to get back to it again!
 
gunnuts said:
I have the choice to buy one online from a CGN dealer, delivered to my house, or buy one in a gun shop 1:30 hour away from home for 25$ more, but seeing that some are A1 and others are lemons, I might take the $ hit and go get one in person to visually inspect it.

... Unless you tell me there is no way to know visually and I will only know after I shoot it.
I could hold a straight edge along the pic rail and see the difference in the gap on either side, I would suggest you have them throw a scope on it and a bore site to see if it lines up you will see from 25 yards, maybe less if it is off! The cgn shop is a good one you can ask them to check these things too,, if they won't, then walk away and get the local!
Can't wait to get mine back!
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Well... SFRC just solved my dilemma! with their 8% discount, I saved around 75$ + time +gas buying from them VS buying local! I just hope I don't get a lemon!



Now I need to develop a good load for it, anyone has some good data for this particular rifle using 175 SMK and 178 hornady match, over Varget powder?
What is your OAL?

Thanks everyone for the infos!
 
I'm like bobdbldr and got one of the duff ones. Who knows when I will ever see my 10TR again, at this point I have written it off as a loss. Would I ever purchase a Savage again? Not a snowballs chance in hell. Save yourself the potential headache and buy anything other than the Savage.
 
Irocudont said:
I'm like bobdbldr and got one of the duff ones. Who knows when I will ever see my 10TR again, at this point I have written it off as a loss. Would I ever purchase a Savage again? Not a snowballs chance in hell. Save yourself the potential headache and buy anything other than the Savage.
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I am another one who got a dud however my other Savage rifles shoot extremely well so I won't write Savage off just yet.
You can also forget Remington who knowingly put out hundreds of thousands of lemons with faulty triggers for decades then.
 
gunnuts said:
Well... SFRC just solved my dilemma! with their 8% discount, I saved around 75$ + time +gas buying from them VS buying local! I just hope I don't get a lemon!



Now I need to develop a good load for it, anyone has some good data for this particular rifle using 175 SMK and 178 hornady match, over Varget powder?
What is your OAL?

Thanks everyone for the infos!
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You will need to check your OAL yourself.
The rifling on mine was very close. At 2.800" I was 0.010 off the rifling using 175SMK's. My 180SMKs at the same seating depth were jammed into the rifling.
 
thump_rrr said:
You will need to check your OAL yourself.
The rifling on mine was very close. At 2.800" I was 0.010 off the rifling using 175SMK's. My 180SMKs at the same seating depth were jammed into the rifling.
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That's a change from the usual Remington long throat, yours is almost a match chamber!
I'll check mine when I get it then.
 
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My Savage 10TR is shooting very well indeed. Big accuracy increase going from 168 Amax to 168 VLDs. Easily sub-MOA and when everything goes well close or under .5 MOA. Need a better scope and want to upgrade the trigger. Both are holding me back right now. I bedded the action and have seen improvements in consistency. I was getting some vertical stringing before, after the bed job is clover-leafs much better.
 
MagnumPeanut said:
My Savage 10TR is shooting very well indeed. Big accuracy increase going from 168 Amax to 168 VLDs. Easily sub-MOA and when everything goes well close or under .5 MOA. Need a better scope and want to upgrade the trigger. Both are holding me back right now. I bedded the action and have seen improvements in consistency. I was getting some vertical stringing before, after the bed job is clover-leafs much better.[/QUOTE
That's good info, thanks, I was wondering how much the bedding would help, Jerry at Mystic Said to do it, so I was/am going to, also what trigger will you go with? Let us know how it works out!
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MagnumPeanut said:
My Savage 10TR is shooting very well indeed. Big accuracy increase going from 168 Amax to 168 VLDs. Easily sub-MOA and when everything goes well close or under .5 MOA. Need a better scope and want to upgrade the trigger. Both are holding me back right now. I bedded the action and have seen improvements in consistency. I was getting some vertical stringing before, after the bed job is clover-leafs much better.
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Pics of bed job please. Want to see what you did with all that space on the sides
 
bobdbldr said:
MagnumPeanut said:
My Savage 10TR is shooting very well indeed. Big accuracy increase going from 168 Amax to 168 VLDs. Easily sub-MOA and when everything goes well close or under .5 MOA. Need a better scope and want to upgrade the trigger. Both are holding me back right now. I bedded the action and have seen improvements in consistency. I was getting some vertical stringing before, after the bed job is clover-leafs much better.[/QUOTE
That's good info, thanks, I was wondering how much the bedding would help, Jerry at Mystic Said to do it, so I was/am going to, also what trigger will you go with? Let us know how it works out!
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I can get Timney trigger pretty easily, but I would like a rifle basix. My last Savage worked really well with the Rifle Basix but I want to try out a Timney.
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Hornychief said:
Pics of bed job please. Want to see what you did with all that space on the sides
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I had never bedded an accustock before so I followed a thread here showing how to bed a 10 BA. Its the same process, minus all the tape. I don't use tape except around the barrel to assure it is free-floating. Just use lots of brass lube as a release agent. Makes a really tight bed. Pain in the ass to get out of the stock actually.

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/foru...vage-110BA-(or-similar-chassis)(Lots-of-pics)
 
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I finally got the chance to shoot my 10TR this weekend. Great news... it wasn't shooting 30 inches to the left, or right. :dancingbanana: I was a little worried.
During the barrel shoot in process I was using just plain old American Eagle 150gr FMJ's and I was also using it as an initial site in of the scope.
After the 20 round Shoot and Clean barrel break-in process, I was ready to start some serious testing, so I grabbed the box of Nosler Match Grade 168gr HPBT
I had purchased just for this occasion and when I tried to chamber a round the bolt wouldn't close. I tried to chamber a few different round from the same box
of Noslers and it was the same problem. So I really pushed on the bolt and finally got it to close. What was obvious, was that the bullet was pushed tight up
against the barrel Lands, so there was no way I was going to fire it and take any chances. Later I got the opportunity to chamber some various types of Ammo
from different Manufacturers (all hunting loads) up to 180gr Winchester Silvertips and none gave me any problems. The OAL of the Nosler Match Grade 168gr HPBT
is less then the 2.81 inch max OAL, so I guess it is the shape of their bullet that is causing the problem. Has anyone tried these cartridges and found the same
problem, or not? I am hoping it is just the Nosler bullets that are the problem, as I would really like to be able to make use of some of the 168gr to 175gr bullets
that are available.
 
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You know barrel break in is a myth right?
I used the Hornady tool to measure from closed bolt to the lands to develop the best base to Ogive measurement for mine. I am loading 178gr Match HPBT at an overall length of 2.827.
 
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Carefully check your brass, specifically the shoulder for rub marks. If the bullet was jamming then it will have definite marks on it where it contacted the rifling. I'd be more inclined to believe the brass did not fit your chamber.

358 BLR said:
I finally got the chance to shoot my 10TR this weekend. Great news... it wasn't shooting 30 inches to the left, or right. :dancingbanana: I was a little worried.
During the barrel shoot in process I was using just plain old American Eagle 150gr FMJ's and I was also using it as an initial site in of the scope.
After the 20 round Shoot and Clean barrel break-in process, I was ready to start some serious testing, so I grabbed the box of Nosler Match Grade 168gr HPBT
I had purchased just for this occasion and when I tried to chamber a round the bolt wouldn't close. I tried to chamber a few different round from the same box
of Noslers and it was the same problem. So I really pushed on the bolt and finally got it to close. What was obvious, was that the bullet was pushed tight up
against the barrel Lands, so there was no way I was going to fire it and take any chances. Later I got the opportunity to chamber some various types of Ammo
from different Manufacturers (all hunting loads) up to 180gr Winchester Silvertips and none gave me any problems. The OAL of the Nosler Match Grade 168gr HPBT
is less then the 2.81 inch max OAL, so I guess it is the shape of their bullet that is causing the problem. Has anyone tried these cartridges and found the same
problem, or not? I am hoping it is just the Nosler bullets that are the problem, as I would really like to be able to make use of some of the 168gr to 175gr bullets
that are available.
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It's all about finding the right ammo for these TR's ... the one I recently got is excellent with 168 and 178 A-max, 180 hunting loads were pretty decent as well... Any lighter is no deal: 150gr AE groups like 00-buck!
 
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