Savage 10TR le/military

XLR Industries sorted out my bottom bolt release issue for the Savage 10TR, big thanks to Kyle...so happy :)

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I have a couple of pals with 10TRs and they're bolts are fine, but mine had a bit of slop in it so I picked up a PTG fluted stainless bolt body for it, and also a 20MOA rail from Italian Sporting Goods' two day sale (25% off the rail). Threw it on there, so I'm gonna have to re-zero it...again. The bolt body was pretty easy to install, just watched a couple of youtube videos and took me about 15 minutes to swap it out. The new bolt body is heavier, and the overall diameter is thicker by just a hair, which was enough to take up a lot of the slop when working the bolt.

I've read a lot of other guys have problems with their factory EGW 0moa rail....well, I didn't have issues with mine when I first got the rifle, but yesterday, it was damn near impossible to get off for some reason. I was worried about rounding out the screw heads, but they broke loose in the end and everything turned out dandy.

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The original bolt body was .69 inches in diameter, and the new one measured .7 in exactly.
 
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That stock and that bolt... very ###xxy!!


I just took mine out this weekend to bang some steel... was very consistant on a 'man sized' piece of steel at 953 meters... Awesome rifle for the money!
 
Mister Donut said:
I have a couple of pals with 10TRs and they're bolts are fine, but mine had a bit of slop in it so I picked up a PTG fluted stainless bolt body for it, and also a 20MOA rail from Italian Sporting Goods' two day sale (25% off the rail). Threw it on there, so I'm gonna have to re-zero it...again. The bolt body was pretty easy to install, just watched a couple of youtube videos and took me about 15 minutes to swap it out. The new bolt body is heavier, and the overall diameter is thicker by just a hair, which was enough to take up a lot of the slop when working the bolt.
Click to expand...

Nice bolt. I wonder if that might help solve my bolt problem.

When you say you had bolt slop, was it when the bolt was closed or open? After a good cleaning, a trip to the range and several cycles and another cleaning, the bolt on mine still binds and gets stuck when I cycle it from the knob. The only way I can get it to cycle smoothly is by pulling low on the knob or pushing from the very back of the bolt. It's very annoying. I'd have to shoot a video to show what I mean, but I'm getting to a point where I just want to throw the thing across the room.
 
awndray said:
Nice bolt. I wonder if that might help solve my bolt problem.

When you say you had bolt slop, was it when the bolt was closed or open? After a good cleaning, a trip to the range and several cycles and another cleaning, the bolt on mine still binds and gets stuck when I cycle it from the knob. The only way I can get it to cycle smoothly is by pulling low on the knob or pushing from the very back of the bolt. It's very annoying. I'd have to shoot a video to show what I mean, but I'm getting to a point where I just want to throw the thing across the room.
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I understand what you mean, I have that experience with a few bolts, I've just changed the way I operate it. I use an open hand. Fingers pointing straight I use the tops of my fingers to raise and unlock the bolt, flip my hand over and use my ring finger to grab the bolt low and support the bolt with my middle/index finger(s) as needed then put my thumb on the back of the bolt itself and push forward, using my index/middle finger to lock the bolt. It's just the way I've gotten around it with a few of my guns
 
I’m fairly new to bolt guns so cycling the action is still something I’m not particularly good at and definitely a skill I need to work on. I see a lot of folks working the bolt so quick and efficiently that when I watch myself do it, it looks like I’m trying to accomplish the task with mittens on.

When I said slop, it wasn’t when the bolt was fully locked forward or all the way back, it was just the in-between bit when I’m pulling the body backwards to yank the shell casing out and feeding the next round in. There was a lot of wobble between the bolt body and the receiver.

After dropping the new bolt body in, I found it reduced that wiggle significantly where it is now barely present. I haven’t taken it to the range yet (next chance is in two weeks) so I don’t even know if I’ll have any problems with it. Messing around with it at home, I feel like the movement is smoother than before, but we’ll see when I feed it live rounds in a few weeks.

To answer someone else’s question from earlier, I don’t know a thing about head-spacing so I can’t tell you how the new body affects it.



 
Maybe it because I'm comparing to a Tikka T3, but when the 10TR was being advertised as $800-1,000 quality rifle, I expected it to perform as such. So far, my experience with it is less than favorable. It shoots straight, but the stock feels cheap, the bolt is sloppy and the magazine is flaky. My Mark II BTVS performs better.
 
awndray said:
Maybe it because I'm comparing to a Tikka T3, but when the 10TR was being advertised as $800-1,000 quality rifle, I expected it to perform as such. So far, my experience with it is less than favorable. It shoots straight, but the stock feels cheap, the bolt is sloppy and the magazine is flaky. My Mark II BTVS performs better.
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Haha, don't compare it to a Tikka T3. It's a $599 rifle, and at best, goes for about $750 on EE. For $599, I'd say it's a pretty good rifle. I didn't have the stock for very long, but yeah, I wasn't fond of it when I did have it.
 
I realize how much they sell for. All I was saying is that they were being touted as a Savage 10 that would normally sell for $800+ but discounted for LEO and military. I suppose I expected what I read.
 
Yeah, I knew what you meant, haha! Side-by-side, my 700p just felt like it was better quality. I didn't like the feel of the Accustock compared to the one that came on my 700p, but even though I didn't like it, it was capable of hitting sub MOA right out of the box. Anyway, I flipped the stock for $100 on EE so the way I look at it is I bought a barrelled action for $500. I'm pretty happy with the way it's currently set up. The rifle feels solid, and I'm pretty happy with it's performance.
 
In terms of accuracy and repeat-ability, I certainly can't complain. It's definitely a straight shooter. At the very least, it gives me a decent platform for a DIY upgrade platform before deciding whether or not I want to get serious about long range precision. I have other shooting hobbies that need attention too. Ha!
 
I've only had it out to 300m and as I understand it, most folks don't consider anything less than 800m long range. I've got a ways to go, but the rifle was inexpensive enough to start so I've got some wiggle room to tinker with it :)
 
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