Savage 110 Media and Info Thread

Mister Donut

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So, I’ve been mucking around with the Savage 10TR for the last two years or so and I’ve been very, very happy with it. On my first trip out with the rifle (and I think it was my second or third time ever shooting bolt guns) it produced groups under two inches at 200 meters. Over time, I’ve come to appreciate match ammunition over the cheapest I could find. I also found an appreciation for quality glass over the Deal Extreme airsoft crap I used to believe was awesome. With this rifle, I reach out to 200m, 300m, 600m, and 1,050m, all for the first time.

http://3.bp.########.com/-Mo6yQv6jwoM/Uu38sMGWP6I/AAAAAAAATB4/Gaj-N3vDDwk/s1600/P1300978.JPG

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https://4.bp.########.com/-3kBFF02HfPQ/VrrU8Dtc6rI/AAAAAAAAfPc/5nQdFXVVvGU/s1600/P2092207.JPG

Anyway, I have not outgrown my .308 by any means, I still have tons to learn, still need to get into reloading, and maybe try to shoot a few matches one day, but for now, I’m just plodding along, enjoying the simple things. That said, an opportunity did come up to snatch a Savage 110 FCP HS in .338LM for a helluva deal and I couldn’t resist. I did a search, and found a few threads here and there mentioning this rifle, but there didn’t seem to be a dedicated thread for information and pics, like the 10TR thread:

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/foru...vage-10TR-le-military?p=12356987#post12356987

Anyway, to start this thread off, here are a couple of pics of mine, hopefully I didn’t start this thread for nothing :)

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I recently sold my 110BA to upgrade to a nicer rifle in the same calibre. It was a good performing rifle, very accurate. The following are my gripes/issues with it during my ownership:

- Hard extraction. I was using S&B Match ammo in it and once the round was fired, you had to give the bolt handle a good "smack" up to get the case to come out. This was actually an issue so common with the rifle that the smith at my local shop already had a rig made up to deal with it, which was essentially a chamber polishing tool. Apparently the finish on the chamber with many of these rifles is not as good as it should be and so when the brass expands it gets caught on these imperfections and subsequently requires some significant effort to be forced free. The chamber polish resolved this issue and subsequent extraction was not a problem.

- The factory tactical stock: Not an issue for the OP, but on the BA, the factory Savage stock looks cool but is functionally awful. It has numerous sharp corners all over it, which make handling the rifle awkward and uncomfortable. These deficiencies became spectacularly apparent once I upgraded my 10 FCP-K to the CADEX Lite Strike chassis, which illustrated for me what a quality tactical style stock is supposed to be like.

- The factory hand-grip base: It gets loose and moves around. A minor annoyance but there nonetheless.
 
I picked up a savage 10ba for my brothers birthday about 3 years ago and I've been very impressed with it , right out of the box it's a very straight shooter , easily reaching out to 200+ ( that's all the space we've got ) almost feels like cheating it's so easy ! I've got a Remington 700 in a aics chassis with a rifle basic trigger and I'd have to give the edge to the savage , not by much mind you seems to be a little bit more consistent as far as the odd flyer getting away from me .
 
I recently sold my 110BA to upgrade to a nicer rifle in the same calibre. It was a good performing rifle, very accurate. The following are my gripes/issues with it during my ownership:

- Hard extraction. I was using S&B Match ammo in it and once the round was fired, you had to give the bolt handle a good "smack" up to get the case to come out. This was actually an issue so common with the rifle that the smith at my local shop already had a rig made up to deal with it, which was essentially a chamber polishing tool. Apparently the finish on the chamber with many of these rifles is not as good as it should be and so when the brass expands it gets caught on these imperfections and subsequently requires some significant effort to be forced free. The chamber polish resolved this issue and subsequent extraction was not a problem.

- The factory tactical stock: Not an issue for the OP, but on the BA, the factory Savage stock looks cool but is functionally awful. It has numerous sharp corners all over it, which make handling the rifle awkward and uncomfortable. These deficiencies became spectacularly apparent once I upgraded my 10 FCP-K to the CADEX Lite Strike chassis, which illustrated for me what a quality tactical style stock is supposed to be like.

- The factory hand-grip base: It gets loose and moves around. A minor annoyance but there nonetheless.

I like the HS Precision stock, it has the aluminium bedding block, it feels ergonomically awesome, it’s nice and light, and I’d probably keep it if I were to hunt with this rifle, but I may end up flipping it and getting a chassis like I did with my 10TR. There was nothing wrong with the HS Precision or the Accustock that came with my 10TR(the rifle shot fine as it was out of the box), but I just wanted something I would never have to bed, that could take AI mags (Dark Eagle Customs are almost as much as AI mags, if not more) as well as have a stock that had adjustable comb and LOP.

I have the Cadex Dual Strike chassis for one of my other rifles, and it’s pretty awesome, so I may go with a Cadex chassis again (nothing wrong with the XLR Carbon chassis, but Cadex has the tool-less adjustments for the stock). Anyway, I haven’t got everything quite mapped out yet, but it will probably be a long slow build because I have a couple of other things I have on the go right now. It would be interesting to see what others have done (or have not done) with their 110s.
 
Can I belong here too....mine's only a 111 .338 Long Range Hunter but it shoots shots touching at 200....in Toronto and live in BC so you'll have to wait for photos. It's just standard other than I got larger bolt and has bipod....for now...and no issues with extracting...shoots great!
 
Can I belong here too....mine's only a 111 .338 Long Range Hunter but it shoots shots touching at 200....in Toronto and live in BC so you'll have to wait for photos. It's just standard other than I got larger bolt and has bipod....for now...and no issues with extracting...shoots great!

Sure, why not? Lol!

Wow what rig is that in the OPS second pic? I love the carbon forend and the grooved bolt.
The bolt handle and grip come from the BA but nothing else looks savage

The first and second rifle are the same, Savage 10TR. Just sitting in an XLR Carbon chassis and the bolt body is a PTG unit, boy did those go up in price, haha!
 
I got a magazine question, what is the lenght of the magazine? Would it be compatible with a mdt lss xl? I am wondering cause of this of mdt website
Note: Long action magazines come in 3 different lengths: 3.715", 3.775" an 8.050". Our chassis use#3.715 length magazines.
 
Well I'm cooling my jets in Florida for a month.

I have done the reverse, bought the 110 FCP .338, just purchased a 10TR for when I arrive home and have been a Savage fan boy for many years.

I read on the Savage forums that some .338's had tight chambers and no room for sloppy brass.

The brass overall length was too long from factory.

I pulled the bullets and trimmed my Hornady loaded .338's as they where definitely too long from factory.
 
Here is one 111 long range 338 lapua of snipershide.

- Savage 11/111 Long Range Hunter
- XLR Industries Stock
- NightForce 20 MOA scope base
- NightForce NSX 3.5-15x50mm
- Larue Scope Mount, LT-111
- Harris Bipod

Lapuaz01.jpg
 
So, I still haven't shot mine yet....probably should, but I'm waiting for glass and a few other goodies for it. One of the firs things I did was throw the action into an AR vice block (surprisingly it fit) and replace the factory brake. I yanked the Titanic off my 10TR and spun it on the 110...didn't bother taking pics of it on but here's a shot of the action in the vice block, haha!

https://4.bp.########.com/-YfKX6itoT1E/VtZ8mKEgFoI/AAAAAAAAhCc/dgvZ8e5aGO8/s1600/DSC_0482.JPG

Next, I managed to get my hands on a Glades Armoury bolt handle and a PTG fluted bolt body:

https://3.bp.########.com/-mI7VH8e1Ufc/VtZ88ZfuR_I/AAAAAAAAhC8/UVGpFNfpric/s1600/DSC_0594.JPG

They measured nearly the same outside diameter:

https://4.bp.########.com/-0cHtRWs4O2k/VtZ8_PunvdI/AAAAAAAAhDM/LPChQm4VvbQ/s1600/DSC_0595.JPG

https://4.bp.########.com/-F6WJnZpBuAc/VtZ9D9pL5lI/AAAAAAAAhEQ/tdgd245yR6U/s1600/DSC_0596.JPG

Actually, I really didn't need to replace the bolt body or the knob, the original factory ones worked just fine, so it was just for sheer cosmetic reasons.

So, the first step is to unscrew the bolt at the end of the assembly:

https://1.bp.########.com/-AoxnqJLriJg/VtZ9D4pJPSI/AAAAAAAAhEQ/cwqmf_SCH5U/s1600/DSC_0598.JPG

I was cursing the Gods for about half an hour trying to get the damn thing off before figuring out maybe I should just drop it in a vice and crank it off with something more than a puny allen key:

https://3.bp.########.com/-kjUZXeiem04/VtZ9LI7QrlI/AAAAAAAAhDo/eUjWTrv38u0/s1600/DSC_0600.JPG

After that, the dis-assembly and reassembly was fairly straight forward:

[îmg]https://2.bp.########.com/-Y14zE_FMCRE/VtZ9K_78cWI/AAAAAAAAhDo/Wq7paJVIfvQ/s1600/DSC_0601.JPG[/img]

You kind of have to wiggle this a bit until the hole lines up before removing the peg:

https://2.bp.########.com/-E-jE3p1Tpec/VtZ9RJzIKlI/AAAAAAAAhDo/8TuDyGFrcz8/s1600/DSC_0604.JPG

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drift the retaing pin out:

https://1.bp.########.com/-lEpUh_E9-LY/VtZ9Ylb_TLI/AAAAAAAAhD4/kIzmqobwOoU/s1600/DSC_0607.JPG

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I ended up taking the bolt handle off my 10TR and putting it on my 110 bolt assembly and threw the Glades one onto my 10TR bolt assembly:

https://4.bp.########.com/-r3HYXphdvTA/VtZ9vdHQR4I/AAAAAAAAhD8/1JNZgiZYBnU/s1600/DSC_0618.JPG

Comparison of all three knobs:

https://1.bp.########.com/-0NO0R_xG7Sw/VtZ91NYn7sI/AAAAAAAAhD8/KofiRpkLpRM/s1600/DSC_0619.JPG

The PTG unit actually didn't fit into the 110 action. I had to remove a little material to make it fit, starting with 220 grit, then 320 grit than 400 grit. I wasn't going after the high-polished finish, so I stopped at 400, but if I wanted the thing to look really polished, I could have gone as high as 20,000 grit.

https://1.bp.########.com/-g8au3okymX0/VuZTFbZnsCI/AAAAAAAAhcg/i-c7wY7EcTUzy4SPbnawPhnINUcJTKNKQ/s1600/DSC_0078.JPG

https://1.bp.########.com/-CRQsCt4RQCA/VuZTGOLxRxI/AAAAAAAAhcg/cB79kMtkmJsnF-SpsRDNMuLxRKTxa72KA/s1600/DSC_0079.JPG

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my new to me 110 long range hunter i scored on EE sitting in an hs precision i picked up from mister donut himself, mark 4 rings, and a 8.5-25 mark 4 can't wait to get some loads made up for it :)
 
Nice! Glad it worked out and that HS Precision stock looks far nicer than the Accustock, which in most cases really needs a higher cheek rest. I found that the HS stock has a perfect height comb, at least for my face and scope height. Looks good!
 
so far I'm nothing but impressed with this rifle, my dad and i threw some loads together out of spare components for his 338rum (225g acccubonds and RL-19) heres my first group at 300 yards with that recipe, retumbo and 300gs will be the next batch, rifle seems like its going to shoot very very well..... hopefully the guy behind it can also get better :d

 
Mine started out life as a 111 Long Range Hunter in 338LM. I sold the barrel, brake, bolt head, 20 MOA aluminum rail and accustock and installed a 30" McGowan 338edge 1" diameter barrel no taper, magnum bolt head, ATRS 30 MOA steel rail and Choate Tactical stock. Still have not fired it yet : (
Here it is next to its little brother, 260Rem built on Stevens action, Shillen barrel and Choate stock. Timed the bolt and added a Nat lambeth bolt lift kit and you can literally lift the bolt with your pinky.

 
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