Savage 220 experience

I

imarco

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Looking for some input

Had my new Savage 220 out to the range today. Using Hornady SST Sabot slugs. Got on paper at 100yrds. wasn't grouping as well as I hoped so I let the barrel cool down and shot again. Now I am not even hitting the paper! All the screws were tight(action and scope). Barrel was getting a little dirty after about 10 rounds but didn't have a cleaning rod.

Wondering if anyone else has a had a similar experience with theirs and how they solved the issue. I am considering trying another ammo, cleaning more frequently, only firing a few rounds at a time to prevent the barrel for overheating.

Thanks
 
The sst never did anything close to good in mine. The recommended Accutips and Federal Barnes hollows always close to 1 inch at 100 yards. Barnes now loads there own Vor-tx tipped expanders 250gr 1900fps I never tried them though. I sold mine ammo was to hard to come by got a muzzleloader now!
 
I'd check the screws on the base. I've seen them shake loose even after they were cleaned and Loktited. If the base was not removed, de greased and LokTite applied, it is most likely loose. Savage doesn't do it at the factory during assembly. The 212 I had needed JB Weld to hold it together.
 
Another thing to check is that you have the correct base screws for the 220. When I bought my 220 brand new the retailer sent me 212 base screws that were slightly too long and interfered with the bolt. It was only noticeable at the very bottom of the bolt turn at lockup.
 
I find (in my 12g rifled barrel) that the Hornady SST sabots foul the barrel with plastic after a few shots and I quickly lose accuracy. I have to scrub the barrel (wire brush) after a bunch of shots to get back on paper.

YMMV
 
Plastic buildup, especially shooting in warm weather. Sweet's 7.62 bore cleaner or the like, will remove it. A brush takes a long time. Guys locally will use a bore snake every couple shots.
 
The plastic sabots will destroy your accuracy in appx 3-5 shots. Clean after every round for your initial sight in. Remington Accutips are worth a try if you can find any? 2 3/4” rounds usually produce better groups in slug guns. Always “check your nuts” and loctite torque is generally between 15-20 inch pounds for gun mounts. A torque driver is helpful.
PS: heavy plastic residue is a B-itch to get out and good solvent and a brass brush or scrubbing bore snake helps.
 
wasa said:
I find (in my 12g rifled barrel) that the Hornady SST sabots foul the barrel with plastic after a few shots and I quickly lose accuracy. I have to scrub the barrel (wire brush) after a bunch of shots to get back on paper.

YMMV
Click to expand...

I found the same results in my one as well. The buggaboo with Savage units is that their barrels are button rifled using cheap methods and look like sewer pipes. Whole lotta friction goin' on in the bore with sabots or lead slugs which will foul up quickly.
Savage 212 Rifling.jpg

I much prefer a proper made tube like the Hastings barrel I put on my Rem 870. These tubes run much cleaner fer me.
Hasting's Rifling.jpg
 

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^I think besides the method used to create the rifling. The biggest difference I think may be that the Hastings looks chromed, while the Savage is not. If the Hastings isn't chromed, then they did a fantastic job at rifling that barrel.

I would assume it's plastic build up causing accuracy issues, or a improperly mounted scope. If it isn't any of those scope could be broken but that's the last thing I would check. I've also read they like Remington slugs, maybe worth trying them out. But I don't have much experience with slug guns outside of second hand experience. Though I am in the market for one as I'll be doing a control hunt, that doesn't allow rifles. I'm kind of on the fence on buying a Savage 220. It's affordable, but I hear mixed opinions on it's quality. I do wish they still made the Browning BPS with a rifled barrel, I can't seem to find any since they ended that production. I found other affordable ones are the Mossberg 500 and 930. But like with Savage I'm not really a fan of the quality they put out. I also can't really justify over $1500 for a firearm that only gets used in a hunt I don't get to do often. So many of the Semi's varieties sold by Browning, Winchester and Bellini are out of the picking for me.
 
Ribstaylor said:
^I think besides the method used to create the rifling. The biggest difference I think may be that the Hastings looks chromed, while the Savage is not. If the Hastings isn't chromed, then they did a fantastic job at rifling that barrel.
Click to expand...

The Hastings barrels are made by Verney Carron in France and are hammer forged without chrome lining. Simply the finest aftermarket tubes out there in my book. ;)

As for the Savage 212/220 units, they do shoot tight for a few shots from a clean barrel and I've had decent results shooting Winchester Super X, 2 3/4" 1 oz Foster slugs from mine at 100 yds netting 3 shot groups a tad under 2". This is good accuracy for a pumpkin launcher when hunting at woods distances.
 
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