Savage 99 Takedown question...MadDog?

Kilo Charlie

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I have a .250-3000 Takedown. If I buy additional barrels, are they compatible with my rifle? Will it feed properly? The biggest question for me is whether rimmed cartridges will feed properly. It'd be a great way to have a switch-barrel rifle. I'd ideally like to get barrels in .303, .300, and .22 Savage, and if I were really lucky, .38-55. What do barrels in fair condition sell for when they come up?
One other question. Does anyone in Ontario sell the Marbles tang sight for the old '99's? I'd like to try one of those as well. Thanks in advance. K.C.
 
I'm not 100% sure on this but no, you won't be able to switch barrels with the rotor thats in the 250-3000. If you had a 303 Savage T/D you should be able to swap the 303 Savage with the 30-30, 38-55 and the 25-35 which were all based on the 30-30 but I'd have a gunsmith check the headspacing before I ever took a shot out of one. Chances of finding a 25-35 and a 38-55 T/D barrel would be slim to none and you'd probably pay for more than the original gun was worth. I think I've got another rotor herefor the 303 Savage. Although the rotor maybe wrong anyways, thats the part I'm stumped on. People think they can take a 308 and make it into a 358 by simply having the barrel rebored but they don't realise that the rotor needs to be changed to a 358 rotor, you'd probably be better off trying to have another rotor opened up somehow before trying to find a 358 rotor cause they're about as hard to find as a 25-35 1899. The Savage T/D barrels also have different thread patterns as well, they made 1/4 turn barrels before 1920 and full thread barrels after, not sure if you can switch these around on the receivers. The 22 H.P. is a necked up 25-35 I think, so it might work as well with a 30-30 rotor.

Oh ya, Marbles does sell a new version for the 1899 with windage adjustable knob as well but I like the looks of the old vintage ones over the newer style, the new ones are about the same friggan price as the old ones go for nowadays to.

As for the tang sights, I've got about 5 of them sitting on my desk right now but only one of each maker, Lyman, Marbles, Parker Hale, etc, etc. but if I get a double down the road I'll hook you up, until then keep your eyes out on Ebay. They run at different prices depending on condition.

You've got me thinking now, I gotta dig into this some more. Maybe 44bore might know about the barrels as well.
 
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Mort than thirty years ago, I had a 99 takedown with two barrels. One was a 30-30 and the other a 22 Hi-Power.

It was a very neat outfit and I got it from an old trapper up here. He used the 30-30 for general all-around use and protection on his line, and put the 22 barrel on when he went sheep and caribou hunting in the mountains. :cool:

Why did I sell that gun?

Ted

BTW, the rotor for the 300 Savage will work for the 250 as well. It's a bit sloppy, but it works!
 
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Hi, a 300 might work but might not have enough clearance at the neck on the cartridge stop/ the metal tab that stops the rotor from unwinding. The rotor itself would likely work but you would have to try it to see. The rimmed cartridges would not work in that rotor. I have a TD F in 250 and one in .300, I will get them out of my safe and check if there are any apparent differences and let you know.

44Bore
 
44Bore said:
Hi, a 300 might work but might not have enough clearance at the neck on the cartridge stop..........I will get them out of my safe and check if there are any apparent differences and let you know.

44Bore

Buddy of mine was thinking or rebarrelling a 300 to 250 Savage Imp and was wondering if the rotor would work. I tried a mag full of 250s in my 300 and it worked fine.

Maybe the takedown is different. Looking forward to hearing how the 250 barrel works when switched to your 300.

Ted
 
So he's gonna have the 300 sleeved to 250 imp?

I think Dizzy Dan had a 99 done like that, made it a 257 Roberts or something or other, been a long time since I remember that gun.
 
I was given an old 1899C in 303 savage. It's been badly bubba'd and the barrel was in bad shape. I had it rebore to 38-55 since that was the only viable option I had left other than finding another half octogon barrel.
I ended up pulling out the rotor and put it on the lathe to massage out some of the brass to accomadate the larger cartridge. I also made another rotor stop/ cartridge guide from scratch to give me more room. It cycles the shells fine but my numbers don't line up with the window quite right now, need to adjust the stop I guess. I found with my rotor that it was solid throughout and had lots of material to remove, perhaps they used a generic blank at the factory and milled then out for whichever shell they wanted.
Hope this helps.
If in your travels you come across a full or half octogon barrel please let me know so I can get to work on my other bubba too! I'd like to get a full length one.

regards,
Noel
 
K.C., I checked on my F's and there is a difference in the cartridge stops--the 300 will not load into the mag without it being modified--the 250 would likely work on the .300, but wasn't able to try it--my .300 is in pieces ( am restoring it). Hope that helps, 44Bore
 
MadDog said:
So he's gonna have the 300 sleeved to 250 imp?

Actually he was thinking of putting a 250 barrel on the 300 and having it rechambered. That way he would still have the 300 barrel to put the rifle back to original condition. :cool:

Said he knew where he could get a "new factory 250 barrel". The project got slowed down somewhere along the line. He now lives in Alberta, and I think he has just kept the rifle a 300.

Ted
 
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Thanks for the input, gents. Kinda figured the rotor would be a problem. Guess I'll just enjoy it as is. On the upside, this means I absolutely HAVE to buy at least a couple more rifles.
 
back to KC....

Your .250-3000 Take-down is a loser of a gun, you might as well trade it to me for a Cooey Model 39 and three magic beans.

AND PLUS I will add a brick of ammo to even up the trade!

:)

Doug
 
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